guitar room project

[7thbassbA]

Have an 11x12 space in garage I want to turn into a practice room/computer based recording space. All amateur.

The goal is to be able to play guitar and bass and interesting levels without waking children or neighbors. Does not have to be isolated as a real studio, and trying to keep noise more in than out.

The room has no doors or windows. It currently has three walls, two of which are outside walls. Above it is attic space.

Here is what contractor suggested, noting that he is not using Green Glue or resilient channels.

Garage Room (~11'-12')
✔ Remove padding/carpet from formal dining and install at garage floor.
✔ Install foam panels and fir strips at existing walls and ceiling to include framing corners at angles.
✔ Install new 1/2” drywall at ceiling and walls, tape, float, sand, texture and paint two coats latex.
✔ Frame opening and install solid wood pre-hung exterior door with weather stripping and threshold.
✔ Install new air duct/register from existing in attic, three electrical outlets, switch and light fixture at center.
✔ Insulate attic above ceiling with R30 9 1/2” and install baseboard/casing trim caulked/painted with enamel.
✔ Enclose existing electrical breaker box and sprinkler controls with low profile cabinet enclosure.

What do you think?

TIA

[DMZ]

I thought you basically have to create a room-in-a-room to soundproof. drywall has to be adhered by a floating c-channel of some sort I think, so low frequency doesn't transfer to studs-which it will, again - I think. Insulation helps some. Google building a home recording studio. A simple remodel may be too simple.

[7thbassbA]

looks like he is just adding insulation. Back to drawing board.

[7thbassbA]

OK. What If I scrapped the idea of insulation, just swabbed down the existing wall with green glue and put up new sheetrock?

Would that give enough soundproofing to play and moderate levels without waking up the kids?

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by 7thbassbA

...The room has no doors or windows. It currently has three walls, two of which are outside walls. Above it is attic space.

Hi 7th-A…
I'm not sure I understand. Is the garage attached to the house? If so, is any wall of this space, or the floor, shared with or on the other side of a living area?

If I were building a guitar playing and recording space, I'd put in a hard wood floor not carpet. Carpet doesn't block bass - bass pretty much penetrates everything. I'd use area rugs, banners on walls or other soft items to control major reflections. Acoustic guitars like reflection...

If a room is ''live'' and reflective it takes less volume in the room to make the player(s) happy...and by the time you put in a computer, place to sit, and your instrument(s) it will fill up rather quickly.

That is a pretty limited size area to record in unless it's all 'solo', but it can be accomplished if you sit in the middle of the room to avoid obnoxious frequencies that come off walls & do some judicious surface treatment...

Unless you are recording a professional recording, not sure I'd go so far as doing a room-in-a-room...especially since is sounds like you are engineering and recording in the same space.

Just random musings from one who has operated a studio from his basement...

[Mr Fixit eh]

You will achieve the most successful levels of structure-borne sound transmission reduction by breaking the structural connection between the gypsum board layers on the two faces of the wall. This is best done using double stud construction. Another option is to use a 2x6 bottom plate and use 2x3 studs at 24 o.c, then alternate the studs on the opposite wall, so the opposing stud falls between those on the opposite wall. However, if a double wall is not possible and a single stud wall must be used, the layers on one side of the wall should be resiliently mounted. The goal is to ensure that the drywall floats on the structural members.

Controlling airborne transmission requires that the gypsum board layers have
sufficient mass and that the cavity contains fibrous absorptive material. Adding additional layers of drywall can help significantly and adding batts of fiberglass or mineral wool insulation. Mak sure that penetrations and joints are caulked carefully with flexible caulking, so there are no paths for airborne sound.

A few links you may find helpful:

http://www.acoustics101.com/

http://www.soundproofing.org/


Steve

[7thbassbA]

[QUOTE=Mr Fixit eh;2146353].....if a double wall is not possible and a single stud wall must be used, the layers on one side of the wall should be resiliently mounted. The goal is to ensure that the drywall floats on the structural members. "

/QUOTE]

Sent email about adding second layer of drywall with Green Glue to the existing drywall, no "room in room" and no added insulation. Here is response:

"Adding a second layer of drywall with Green Glue to one side of a wall will cut noise transmission by roughly 75%. Another option in your situation would be to frame in a second wall in front of the existing wall leaving a 1" space, fill the cavity with fiberglass insulation, and use 2 layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue."

I need to see how much it will cost to frame a room inside the garage. If Green Glue is correct, then 75% drop in noise might get me where I need to go.

Not sure how de-coupling with green glue compares to a resilient channel construction, but will keep looking into it.

Interesting-er and Interesting-er.

I appreciate everyones help.

[Mr Fixit eh]

I was not familiar with Green Glue. A quick web search results in a substantial lack of independent articles and reviews of the product, so I am somewhat skeptical of the claims.

Simply adding a layer of drywall to an existing wall will increase the STC by 5 - this is a noticable improvement in sound deadening, but is in no way cutting sound transmission in half. IF the Green Glue is as effective as claimed, then you exceed these expectations, if not, you've only wasted some money on the product.

To achieve decoupling, other than using Green Glue, you would have to remove the existing drywall, then install resilient channel onto the studs, then carefully attach the drywall to the channels only. If there is not existing batt insulation, you could add some. This would give you an increase of 10 STC which would be half the existing sound transmission. If you then added a second layer of drywall, you'd have an total increase of 15 STC over existing. But it's alot more work than just slapping up drywall with Green Glue.

If you decide to use the Green Glue, do post back and let us know whether it was effective.

Steve

[7thbassbA]

Found a sound proofing / insulation guy locally through ServiceMagic. His proposal looks like this

__________________ Existing sheetrock
__ __ __ __ __ __ __ _ Green Glue
___________________ QuietRock acoustic dampening board
__ __ __ __ __ __ __ _ Green Glue
___________________New sheetrock

All screws will use an acoustic felt that is supposed to reduce transmission. Then acoustic sealant around all walls and, electrical outlets, etc.
Will move some electrical outlets around, and proposal also includes adding recessed lighting and framing a new wall with solid door.

Price is pretty reasonable. He has some leftover material from another job. Not sure on timing and have a few wrinkles to iron out.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[7thbassbA]

I have renamed the Man Cave/Guitar Studio. I now refer to it as the ghetto outhouse. Which is fair neither to ghettos or outhouses.

Contractor did such a bad job I have to have someone else finish it. Electrical is fire hazard, nowhere near code, and to fix will have to pull Sheetrock, quiet board, and re-attach. And possibly demo the wall they put up.

They did not tape and float the walls. I will say it again, because it sounds a bit impossible, but there was no tape, no float. Only spackle and joint compound. This is a problem because they told me they did, and all it needed was a coat of paint.

They found the cheapest paint mixed with sand and, due to problem with their paint sprayer, rolled it- so badly the walls will have to be sanded. Which is OK, since need to tape and float all sheetrock anyway.

They broke the controller for my sprinkler, and instead of removing it and moving it out of the room, they left it attached to original Sheetrock, cut a hole around it, and filled the hole with putty.

They failed to move the breaker box, and attach to front of new wall. Instead, they simply cut a hole and moved the door plate to the new wall. Which means there are exposed wires going into breaker box.

They put can lights in the ceiling connected with lamp wire. They added an electrical outlet by cutting a groove in the sheetrock and sticking wire inside. They puttied over that and painted it.

I am not a man of peace, love, nor unity. Hell, I am a trial lawyer. Mark My Words: I will wear their guts for garters before this is over.

[7thbassbA]

the three day job took 7 days. They "finished" at 2:30 in the morning on Monday.

[Wally]

Man this sounds like it's a candidate for an episode of "Holmes on Homes" - great show on HGTV by the way. I'm sorry for your misfortune. Hope it works out in the end. Put some pictures up when it meets your satisfaction.

[Doug Young]

You might find the studio construction stuff on my web site useful:

http://www.dougyoungguitar.com/studio.php

My room started as a practice room for my son's band, because after the first all-marshall stack rehearsal, the neighbors threatened to revolt. With the help of lots of 14-year old labor, I blew insulation into all the garage walls, and then built a room inside the garage, also insulated. When we were done, you could stand in the driveway while they were punk-rocking out, and it sounded like there was a radio playing in the distance. At the neighbors, it was completely gone.

I went from there, to make it a place I could record and hang out, after the band moved on.

[Dark Eyed Junko]

Originally Posted by 7thbassbA

the three day job took 7 days. They "finished" at 2:30 in the morning on Monday.

Was time of the essence?

[7thbassbA]

Originally Posted by Dark Eyed Junko

Was time of the essence?

No, it was not. The contract said substantial completion in 4 days, but we were flexible. With a framing crew and wallboard crew, should take three days. One day the foreman showed up without any crew, just some dude. That is probably when it started to go south.


Being and awake sober at 2:30 in the morning, on the other hand, was cruel and unusual punishment.