#16
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As indicated in another post, once the bolt is removed you can slide sandpaper between the neck heel and the body. I have done over 1400 dovetail neck resets. Disregarding drying time (from both the steaming and regluing), I have performed many, many resets in 45 minutes or less. I just did one on a brand new Martin D-28 Authentic 1937. |
#17
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To get the neck tenon glue loose enough to be able to insert and drag sandpaper between the body and neck heel, I find you have to remove the fretboard extension from the guitar and compleltey remove the neck and clean the mess off first. Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#18
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#19
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#20
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I didn't really expect to hear too much about Lakewood, but I wonder has anyone had to reset a Breedlove? And was the pre-NT Taylor neck also patented like the new one? If not, then it would be fair game to copy it, right? So, they would be fairly similar?
And thanks for the pics of the disassembled necks. That's the stuff! |
#21
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I cannot comment on current Lakewood neck joints, but what I can say is that back in the day I owned a Lakewood which underwent a fatal accident (involving slippery steps in winter in Massachusetts) and when the debris was collected, I was amazed to see that the neck had actually been butt-jointed ( with epoxy, I assume) to the body ... no bolts ... just a straight butt joint, That would be around 1999 btw.
David Russell Young also used an epoxied butt joint IIRC. |
#22
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The bolt is located at the bottom of the heel, it is more of an assembly bolt rather than an option for easy neck removal, its merely used to secure the neck whilst the abundance of titebond glue sets I know of no Main stream manufacturer other than Taylor that has a full bolt on neck, many use the Martin style Bolt on and glue , which makes it impossible to simply remove the bolt slip in some sandpaper and reset the neck, it would be so cool if they did install such a feature Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE Last edited by mirwa; 06-15-2018 at 02:58 AM. |
#23
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I really don't understand why they would glue and bolt it. Kind of stupid really.
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#24
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Yep, agreed.
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#25
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The Martin with a glued mortise and tenon joint is NOT a true bolt-on.
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I just did a sandpaper reset on another brand guitar with a true bolt-on, but I cannot remember the name. Tacomas are another example. |
#26
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Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#27
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Yeah the Martin's are not true bolt on, hence the glue, but all they need to do is just make it a true bolt on. Add one more bolt and just do it right IMHO.
I guess for those who do the tenon you would leave a bit of room behind it. The only time I use a tenon is for the Selmer style guitars that have a super thin heal. Otherwise I'm not sure what else it does besides complicate the joint. Does it help with twisting perhaps? |
#28
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The extension is glued on a Collings. The only reason to remove the neck during a neck reset is to place a wedge shaped shim underneath the extension. Same with Tacoma.
IMHO, the reason to have a tenon is for strength. With more wood to anchor the bolts, the chance of a heel crack at the bolts is lessened. Collings inserts a maple dowel in the heel, which also adds strength. The screws thread into the dowel, and since it is cross-grain, it is stronger than threading into end grain. Quote:
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#29
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Mike Baranik probably doesn't qualify as a mainstream manufacturer, but he also uses a full bolt-on system. |
#30
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bolt on, neck reset |
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