Changing strings on single cone resonator

[seangil]

I have a very basic question, but I haven't been able to find much info. I've bought a second hand single cone resonator with a biscuit bridge and need to change the strings for the first time. I've read that you should change one string at a time and leave the rest under tension to keep the cone from shifting its position.

Any other advice from folks on changing the strings?

Note that I am also thinking of changing the string gauge with the new set to put on something a bit lighter. Right now I have EJ42s that run 16 - 56 and am thinking of trying Pearse strings that run 13 to 56. Not a huge difference, but still a bit different.

Thanks

[frankmcr]

Originally Posted by seangil

I have a very basic question, but I haven't been able to find much info. I've bought a second hand single cone resonator with a biscuit bridge and need to change the strings for the first time. I've read that you should change one string at a time and leave the rest under tension to keep the cone from shifting its position.

Any other advice from folks on changing the strings?

s

You should change one string at a time and leave the rest under tension to keep the cone from shifting its position.

[Robin, Wales]

Change the strings one at a time.

Your 13-56 strings will be fine. The EJ42 sets are meant for square neck guitars rather than round neck guitars. I'm not surprised that you are struggling with them!

[blue]

Pro tip. Use painter's/masking tape to hold the ball end of the string in its slot. They like to move around and "hang up" so only the edge of the ball catches on the hole and slot.

This is very informative, even if the source ran a less than upstanding business

[Ceabeceabe]

I have Martin light/mediums on my 1992 national single cone; .0125, .0165, .0255, .0335, .0435, .055. Am in alternate and standard tunings. Does fine. I have been changing strings 3 at a time for years without issue but rethinking that based on the one at a time comments.

Have fun!

[blue]

Originally Posted by Ceabeceabe

I have Martin light/mediums on my 1992 national single cone; .0125, .0165, .0255, .0335, .0435, .055. Am in alternate and standard tunings. Does fine. I have been changing strings 3 at a time for years without issue but rethinking that based on the one at a time comments.

Have fun!

It's not just about the cone moving around. If you have tension on only one side of the trapeze tailpiece, the tailpiece can snap. The older the guitar of course the more likely. The fewer strings on the guitar the more likely. If you have to take them all off, do one on the treble and bass side, to low tension, and gradually bring them up together to tension. Two in the middle would work as well of course. 1992 is pretty old! My oldest modern national is a 2001 Style N single cone.

I've been running straight 12s on it, despite the shorter scale length for a while after seeing how well they work for Rockabilly69. As to brand, whatever is cheap on sale. Never turn my back on a deal for Daddario EJ-16s or EJ17s...

Originally Posted by blue

It's not just about the cone moving around. If you have tension on only one side of the trapeze tailpiece, the tailpiece can snap. The older the guitar of course the more likely. The fewer strings on the guitar the more likely. If you have to take them all off, do one on the treble and bass side, to low tension, and gradually bring them up together to tension. Two in the middle would work as well of course. 1992 is pretty old! My oldest modern national is a 2001 Style N single cone.

I saw a National Guitars posted tech video where they changed 3 at a time. I'll see if I can dig it up.

Originally Posted by J-Doug

I saw a National Guitars posted tech video where they changed 3 at a time. I'll see if I can dig it up.

Here it is:

[rockabilly69]

i change them 2 at a time, outside in.

[blue]

Originally Posted by J-Doug

I saw a National Guitars posted tech video where they changed 3 at a time. I'll see if I can dig it up.

cool. I'll follow what Don Young told me.

Originally Posted by blue

cool. I'll follow what Don Young told me.

Next time I'll do what you guys are doing, one or two at a time. I was always a little suspicious of that video, even though it is from National. It didn't really seem like a good idea to me.

[blue]

Originally Posted by J-Doug

Next time I'll do what you guys are doing, one or two at a time. I was always a little suspicious of that video, even though it is from National. It didn't really seem like a good idea to me.

I watched it for a bit. I understand why he does it the way he does. It's certainly easier. It is hard to leave the strings on while you're changing it.

He did stress the idea of the first and sixth string having one wrap to the outside, and the others to the inside, and reversing that for the other strings. If people see that video and only walk away with that concept, it's a win! ALL their slotheads will be happier!

But yeah, he was a little loosey Goosey with the string measurement. I'm a little more precise than that. I do one post and a finger's with on 4th 5th and 6th, but bump it up to 1.5 posts on the treble. Plenty of room there, and it guarantees no slippage.

It may just be a generational difference at the factory. The guys who came up working on vintage guitars, vs. the ones that didn't. Once a rattle jumps into an old National, tracking it down can be a bear.

One of the biggest reasons you don't want the cone shifting is not just about intonation or rattles. You don't want to disturb the cone too much because resos don't so much "break in" as "settle in". The "opening up" of a reso is a settling in. The cone finds its place through all those vibration cycles and assuming there are no issues in the build finds a nice efficient place to sit.

Those people who are constantly opening the guitars up and "tuning" them by moving the posts around are actually usually doing more harm than good to the guitars sound. Everything has to find its place after every intrusion

[Wade Hampton]

On resonator instruments I change strings inside out, with the D string first, then the G, the A string, the B and so forth. It seems to keep things pretty stable.


whm

[Ceabeceabe]

Originally Posted by blue

It's not just about the cone moving around. If you have tension on only one side of the trapeze tailpiece, the tailpiece can snap. The older the guitar of course the more likely. The fewer strings on the guitar the more likely. If you have to take them all off, do one on the treble and bass side, to low tension, and gradually bring them up together to tension. Two in the middle would work as well of course. 1992 is pretty old! My oldest modern national is a 2001 Style N single cone.

I've been running straight 12s on it, despite the shorter scale length for a while after seeing how well they work for Rockabilly69. As to brand, whatever is cheap on sale. Never turn my back on a deal for Daddario EJ-16s or EJ17s...

Thanks for mentioning the tailpiece!! Will thin on that! Yeah mine is #19 (of the “new” company’s, of course).

[tdq]

Just my bit: I've never worried about any of all of that. I take them all off at once, then restring one at a time. No rules, other than I don't bring them up to full tension until they are all on, same as on my flat tops. Never had any issues.