#1
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Your formula for saddle angle
Just curious - regarding intonation compensations what is your formula for determining saddle angle?
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#2
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On most steel string guitars, an angled slot is an approximation of where the strings should break to achieve good intonation. I use a wide saddle so that I can intonate each string as it needs to be, rather than rely upon the approximation an angled saddle slot and a narrow saddle allows.
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#3
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Quote:
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#4
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I position the non-angled saddle at a position that adds to the scale length 2 to 3 mm on the high E string and about 5 mm on the low E. I use a 3/16" (5 mm) wide saddle sufficient to put the break points anywhere in between. For a specific type or gauge of string, the actual break points are determined empirically using a strobe tuner. |
#5
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Quote:
I realize you fine tune the saddle upper surface after that.
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#6
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Your formula for saddle angle
I use the Stew-Mac fret calculator and set the slot angle off the estimated E string lengths. I center the lengths to the slot width and then do final intonation with a dummy saddle.
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 06-02-2018 at 06:39 PM. |
#7
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Thanks for the info. I will check into that calculator.
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#8
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I did my first steel string after building 5 classicals and used the Stew Mac calculator as well. I found it to give very good intonation. The numbers on the plan I was using were obviously wrong,
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#9
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Your bridge, don’t cut the saddle slot yet, tune the guitar up.
Slide small pieces of wood under each string and move them until you get correct intonation. Mark the position of these pieces of wood with a pencil, cut your saddle slot to cover these penciled areas. Well that’s what I do Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#10
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I use scale length +1/16" for the high e and +3/16" for the low e to the front edge of the saddle, or 1/8" across the width of the strings. I don't know the angle, but it wouldn't be hard to calculate. I believe I got that from Cupiano's book, but it could have been somewhere else.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#11
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3 degrees is typical .
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#12
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I built this jig out of a book, can't remember which one bow, about 30 years ago and have used it on about 60 guitars now. I've never had any problems with intonation outside of what's normal for any instrument and that can be mitigated a bit even on a 1/8th saddle.
I do really like 1/4in saddles though. |
#13
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