2 Questions - Reaming Bridge Pin Holes & Suggested Tools

[arie]

you guys missed the point entirely. the form and depth of the taper is important -not exactly how it get's there, and i was referring to the recommendation that the tang of a file (however economical or not) or a plumbers reamer, (with the wrong taper) will provide the correct profile.

[redir]

Woa old thread revived.

FWIW I've built almost 70 guitars now and have repaired countless number and I have a hand full of rat tail files that I use to ream pin holes. I have the proper reamers for more serious problems like for example flamenco or violin pegs as well as 5th string banjo tuners but for bridge pins the files work fine. If you can hold the pin up to the rat tail and the taper matches then it will work just fine. I recommended a Bstard file simply because they have so many other uses as well.

IIRC the concept of using a rat tail file was out of Sloan's book or one of the old luthier books. I remember at the time thinking one day I'll get the right tool for the job. 25 years later I'm still using a file. Proper or not it works and on any one of my guitars you can string up to pitch and pull the pin right out with a little tug so the pin does it's intended job and stays put.

I agree there is nothing like the right tool for the job and in fact a proper reamer would probably be faster but I just got into the habit of using a file and have never had any problems. Still, one day maybe, I'll get the right tool for the job

Originally Posted by BothHands

...I'm going with Ivoroid, a very hard plastic, instead of ebony because ebony swells up in summer humidity making it difficult/impossible to remove the pins...

I like high quality plastic pins (such as StewMac ivoroid or Antique Acoustics) as much as the next guy, but I have used ebony pins for many years, in all kinds of weather at outdoor festivals and extensive travel in the cold, dry winters. I have never, ever had any trouble with properly fitted ebony pins swelling and fitting too tightly in the summer or shrinking and fitting too loosely in the winter. I think it's something people expect to happen far more than something that actually happens.

[Bowie]

If it helps anyone in the future, Grizzly industrial has a 3° reamer with a wooden handle (looks like the Stew Mac piece) sold specifically for guitars for $20. I'm all about using what I already have on hand but at that price, it's worth having a correctly tapered tool.

[printer2]

Originally Posted by Bowie

If it helps anyone in the future, Grizzly industrial has a 3° reamer with a wooden handle (looks like the Stew Mac piece) sold specifically for guitars for $20. I'm all about using what I already have on hand but at that price, it's worth having a correctly tapered tool.

I see lot of tools at a good price. But when I factor in shipping and duties, $10 brokerage fee from Canada post or $25 to $75 by the courier companies, you get the idea why I use my diy methods.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by stratokatsu

I have a little grand concert size guitar with the most tapered bridge pin holes I've ever seen. I'd like to change out the plastic pins for something else, but of the bone, ebony and basswood pins I have, they are very over sized.

Is it difficult to ream out the pin holes? What might be the best tool to acquire, or borrow if my buddy with a million tools has one?

That brings up a question... I like to work on my own guitars and I was wondering what a small list of needed tools might be to look into owning. I don't want to get so serious as fret replacement or neck resets, but I wouldn't mind doing fret leveling or cutting nuts and saddles.

Thanks...

Many others have given a variety of thoughts and suggestions.

Here are a few of mine.

1) I was lucky to find a round file that fits the taper of standard bridge pins quite perfectly. I use it in my drill, but run it BACKWARDS so it doesn't grab into the hole and get stuck (or worse!).

2) If you want some basic tools, here is about what I'd recommend:

- Nut files - use small sized needle files if you aren't intending to do lots, but buy a set of nut files if you are serious. While needle files are entirely adequate and can be used to set up a guitar to perfection, specialty nut files require a bit less effort to get good looking results.
- Sandpaper, sanding blocks, and adhesive spray. While stew-mac will sell you a variety of fret dressing tools for hundreds of dollars if you buy them all, you can get top quality results with the tools I mention, for a fraction of the cost (well under 50 dollars)
- Needle files - these are good for cleaning the groove in which the nut sits, as well as for shaping saddles and nut profiles.
- Misc. tools - screwdrivers, allen keys, drill, glue, tape, etc, etc etc.

I might have overlooked something, but I think that is a good complete list of all you will need for basic setups. If you want to do refrets, a hammer and end-nippers ground to be able to wedge up the frets will be necessary. Again, you can buy stew mac's end nippers, or buy a set yourself from your local hardware store then file it so the blades of the jaws are flush with the edge of the nippers.

[John Arnold]

The half-fluted reamer takes care of the roundness issue.

In most cases, but if the hole is already slotted for the string, the file works better than any straight-fluted reamer, which will catch on the edge of the slot.

I have never, ever had any trouble with properly fitted ebony pins swelling and fitting too tightly in the summer or shrinking and fitting too loosely in the winter. I think it's something people expect to happen far more than something that actually happens.

+1
I have been using wooden bridge pins for over 40 years, and I never even heard of a problem with swelling until I read it on an Internet message board.

[Jim.S]

Originally Posted by arie

whatever happened to good old craftsmanship? just buy or borrow the right tool for the right pins.

after generations of "shade tree engineering", the definition of craftsmanship in the future will be defined by how quickly one can weasel out of doing something correctly.

Originally Posted by arie

you guys missed the point entirely. the form and depth of the taper is important -not exactly how it get's there, and i was referring to the recommendation that the tang of a file (however economical or not) or a plumbers reamer, (with the wrong taper) will provide the correct profile.

Okay, I see what you meant now that you have explained your first post. Perhaps it would be fairer to say you did not communicate your point very well rather than "you guys missed the point entirely". Your first statement looked like a bit of tool snobbery to me Arie.

Jim