What strings do you use on your FB?

[three4rd]

This subject came up as kind of a sideline discussion in another thread I recently had going, so I thought I'd explore it further. I picked up a used Froggy SJ awhile back. Given that Michael Millard, on the FB website, says they prefer to put JP strings on all their guitars, I thought I'd try it. I'm not new to these strings (80/20 light) having used them on other guitars. I've always really liked them though have found that the quality starts to deteriorate perhaps quicker than some other brands I've had. So, having put the JP on yesterday, I'm not as impressed as I had anticipated. I'd have to say they sound 'good', but I don't think they are bringing out the best in the instrument. Surprisingly, some notes farther up on the fingerboard just sound a bit dead especially on the D and A strings - really didn't expect that. I have little to go on here having only had the FB for a few months and only played the Elixirs (not sure what specific kind) that were on it when I bought the guitar.

What are others out there using? I realize the choice of strings is a very personal issue, but just out of curiosity I thought I'd just see what people are using on their Froggies. Plectrum strings were recently recommended to me. I've also used D'Addario EJ16s quite often. The sound I tend to like is a bit on the brighter side. I do mostly finger style (though with a pick) as opposed to lots of heavier strumming, etc. The Froggy has such good clarity of tone and articulation, that I'd really like to find strings that best emphasize that.

Thanks for any suggestions....

[BrunoBlack]

I know Michael is big on JP 80/20s but I haven’t been thrilled with them on both of the FB guitars I own. I settled on using D'Addario EXP 80/20 strings on these 2 guitars. Both guitars I own (K and H12) are built with Walnut/Adi, and these strings provide the best punch, clarity and deep sound to my ears. D'Addario EXP PBs sound slightly richer is some sense, but flatten out the profile with less dramatic highs & lows (at least to my ears) They are my second choice on these 2 guitars. But in the end, these guitars sound great with just about any strings I throw on them.

[Bc3]

The froggys with Adi tops really like Santa Cruz low parabolic strings

[three4rd]

Bc3,

Interesting that you mention Santa Cruz. The shop where I had some work done on my FB highly recommends these. I'll definitely have to try them. The concept of tension being more important than gauge is certainly interesting. The total 'low' tension on the SC appears to be around 156 lbs. It'd be interesting to compare this to other brands. JP 600L are reported to be around 163 total.

[Mycroft]

I usually fine tune with different alloys depending on the guitar. Certain strings will compliment the tone influenced by the back and sides. For Mahogany-backed guitars I generally like Phosphor Bronze, and 80/20s for Rosewood family. (I note that you don't mention what your Froggy is backed with) On my A12 my string of choice is the Pearse Phosphor Bronze lights, although I do use Elixir Phosphor Bronze Nanos at times. I also am not a fan of "new string sizzle" and like them better after they have been on for a few days.

OMMV

[three4rd]

Mycroft,

Interesting about strings and their interrelationship with the back as a determinant of tone. Certainly makes sense. I'd think the material that the top of the guitar is made from is even more critical though (?) Not certain on the back of my SJ - presuming mahogany. The classified ad description (bought it here on the forum) said "mahogany sides and 2-piece back. Other than that, not totally sure. Probably Andy at FB would be able to tell me.

[dneal]

Go-to, don't give it any thought strings are JP phosphor bronze.
Love the extra lushness are DR Sunbeams
Best balance across the strings are Straight Up Strings.

I use .12's for both the H12 and L. Those are usually "lights", but they're "mediums" for the SUS brand.

[LyleGorch]

Newtone Heritage.

[vindibona1]

Originally Posted by Bc3

The froggys with Adi tops really like Santa Cruz low parabolic strings

I was going to say Santa Cruz or their cousin Straight Up Strings. Similar idea except that SC's are coated and cost twice as much as the SUS strings and have more tension overall per gauge. I suggest try them both. I haven't tried the SC's (due to price) as the SUS are great strings. It has been my experience that for me coated strings don't last any longer for than uncoated.

What parabolic strings do differently than others is resist "twisting" of your sound board, while different than Taylors V brace concept, keeping the action and vibrations of the strings more parallel with the neck. Different concepts and mechanics, one internal and one external, but trying to accomplish the same thing. Note the different specs of these two similar brands in the chart below.

[baimo]

I have owned a few FB's including an SJ. Like most guitars it is fun and rewarding to try different strings. For just a few bucks it makes it seem like you have a new guitar.

[Mycroft]

Originally Posted by three4rd

Mycroft,

Interesting about strings and their interrelationship with the back as a determinant of tone. Certainly makes sense. I'd think the material that the top of the guitar is made from is even more critical though (?) Not certain on the back of my SJ - presuming mahogany. The classified ad description (bought it here on the forum) said "mahogany sides and 2-piece back. Other than that, not totally sure. Probably Andy at FB would be able to tell me.

Myself, I think that probably 90% comes from the top, but the various spruces are far more alike than they are different. It can vary depending on the stiffness, thickness, and the bracing. But Englemann, while a little different, ain't really that much different from Sitka from Adirondack from European form the latest trendy "Harvested by virgins under the light of a blood blue moon."

But backwood can add character or "colour" to the tone, depending on the wood and how active it is. Backwood either absorbs or reflects certain frequencies to varying degrees, depending on how active the back is. Which is why a guitar with a Rosewood back generally is darker of tone, with more harmonics underlay, while a Mahogany backed guitar tends to have less harmonic and to emphasize the fundamental. Mahogany tends to be more "woody, " and Rosewood more metallic.

If the guitar back did not effect the tone, all guitars would be made with the same back and side wood.

Viva la difference...

[vindibona1]

Does the sound really come from the top? From the back? From the bracing? From the strings? Yes! It comes from all the above, working together as a single unit.

Forgive me for saying so, but you cannot simply isolate one aspect of the guitar and generalize about anything. I cannot tell you how many times I've heard "maple sounds like 'x""... and then they hear my Taylor 614 and go "huh???".

While you're not going to change any glued-in aspect of your guitar, strings are one thing that can be changed, as can the saddle and even bridge pins. Everything, the top, back, sides, saddle, nut, bridge pin and tonal nodes (even tuner mass affects tonal nodes) throughout the instrument have to work in concert together as they produce harmonics that provide the instrument's characteristic sound.

Bottom line: If you want to milk the last iota of sound out of your guitar, you can't escape testing. Think of buying different strings as the investment in your investment. For me, strings are only a first step. So much more you can do. Go forth and test.