#16
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If the frets are now "like nubs", as you state, probably, they should have been replaced, rather than crowned. The repair person who did the work should have advised you of that and given you the choice, then, to crown them or replace them. Is he charging you twice: once for crowning them and then once for replacing them? |
#17
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#18
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If the frets are currently too low, taller frets will improve playability....even if the action remains the same. Installing taller frets does not automatically lower the action, unless the neck currently has excess relief that cannot be removed by adjusting the truss rod.
One thing that is certain....the nut will need to be raised after installing taller frets....unless it is too high now. The nut height should be in the same plane as the tops of the frets. |
#19
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For me, you are confusing two quite separate repairs. You do a neck reset if the neck joint or the guitar body has moved to the extent that you can't lower the bridge saddle enough to get normal action height. Neck resets on your guitar (I saw one in progress once) are a total PITA - you have to saw the neck off the body, and devise a bolt on joint with what's left. I'd have to truly love the guitar to do that to it. Edit: read your other thread, this is indeed a labor of love.
If you look at your bridge and there is enough saddle showing to let you lower the action (after adjusting the truss rod and all of that), then you don't need a neck reset. If it's marginal (which is what this actually sounds like) then you get to a re-fret. A re-fret is far less invasive than sawing the neck off, and while re-fretting there are many things that can be done to help with the action. Two that come to mind are planing the fretboard to slightly improve it's angle with respect to the bridge saddle and refretting with taller frets to lower action by simply moving the frets closer to the strings. I wouldn't discount the possibility that your guy is right, and he can get it playing well with a judicious re-fret. What you described in your original post is about what I would do.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. Last edited by MC5C; 06-15-2018 at 05:41 AM. |
#20
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Done poorly, and you'll have popped a few hundred bucks into an ineffective repair. Done well, and you can have a guitar that will last the rest of your life without needing a neck reset.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#21
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#22
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Jescar make some that have a 1.4mm (aprx) crown height, in both jumbo width and closer to standard width. Depends what feel you like. Some people like jumbo, some don't. Jumbo tend to slide better.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#23
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Thanks for the suggestion. I'm hoping and assuming the luthier will know whats appropriate to install to get playability. We haven't discussed fret wire at all.
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#24
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Spoke with my luthier today. I am going with the re-fret! Apparently has recently done 2 re-frets on vintage Yamaha's . So that makes me feel more comfortable with my decision. Will report back when it's done.
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