#31
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I probably wouldn't have got the point myself had it not been for the teacher I had in my mid-late teens. He would basically get off his chair & drag my elbow if need be to where it should be, the same as thumb placement, index finger placement for bar chords, pick technique etc. etc. For as much of a handy convenience as online tutorials are you sometimes need a bit of physical intervention to drive the point home & if you aren't aware there's a technique problem yourself then no one online is going to tell you either.
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Mick Martin D-28 Maton EA808 Australian Maton EBG808 Performer Cole Clark FL2-12 Suzuki Kiso J200 Last edited by saxonblue; 07-26-2017 at 05:15 AM. |
#32
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I found the other iterations of the first position F chord such as F7 and F 7 minor to be more difficult. Less fingers down = more pressure on the bar.
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#33
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Do you need long fingers for an F bar chord?
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I think an electric with light strings is excellent to learn the muscle memory of the shapes, plus you get that earlier gratification when you finally start to ring those chords cleanly. That's exactly how it worked for me. I started with electric, and bought my first acoustic about 3 months into it. By then I already knew cowboy chords and was starting to learn barre chords on my electric. When I touched an acoustic at the guitar store for the first time, I was surprised at how quick my fingers became sore, but I was able to play those chords I learned, the muscle memory transferred seamlessly, I just needed to build that extra hand endurance and thicker calluses. |
#34
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#35
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That's how I've been playing ever since. I usually gravitate for my acoustic because it's just a lot easier to take it out of the case and play, whereas the electric I gotta plug it in. Both guitars will train you on different things. The electric will train you on having a lighter touch, and if and when you start to play with distortion, you'll learn other small nuances like muting individual strings when playing leads, and a whole other things you can't do on an acoustic. |
#36
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I think this is a good suggestion. I started learning that shape on G or so and once I had it there, moving it back toward the neck was fairly easy.
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"Militantly left-handed." Lefty Acoustics Martin 00-15M Taylor 320e Baritone Cheap Righty Classical (played upside down ala Elizabeth Cotten) |
#37
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#38
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If you search the forum on nut height, read a lot, and then go get some feeler gauges you can get an idea how your nut is compared to what it would be with a *really* good setup.
I had 2 setups done locally, they didn't do a whole lot to make the F barre chord easier. Maybe if I'd specified the height of the bottom of the slots above the frets in thousandths of an inch they would have listened, but if you just take it in and ask them to lower the action for a beginner they don't do much IME. I've done 2 nut setups myself now recently following directions from Charles Tauber & Frank Ford on this forum. Now there is no hand strain barring the first fret and the F is really no harder than the G or A Barre chord up the neck. The chords around the first 3 positions sound a heck of a lot better too as the intonation is now better. I can play quite a bit longer and my hand is feeling better throughout the day after less than a week. I was fatiguing my hand a lot before. Regarding finger length.. I have long fingers, my index finger is ~3" and my middle and ring fingers are longer. AFAICT very few guitars are wider than 2", so I have a bunch of extra finger to figure out where to place. If your finger is shorter you don't have to worry about that variable, and the knuckles are closer together. One thing I'm noticing is I seem to do better with the knuckles right over a string as opposed to falling between two strings. I still have a long way to go on this chord too, I've actually never really found the four string version much easier. |
#39
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+1 for the thumb thing. I stopped using barre chords as soon as somebody showed me how to use my thumb on the 6th string and I've been a happy camper for over 50 years doing it this way.
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Harmony Sovereign H-1203 "You're making the wrong mistakes." ...T. Monk Theory is the post mortem of Music. |
#40
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Well just over a month from first posting this I did my first F bar chord and it rang out without any fret buzz. I was so excited. Ive been practicing them on and off all the time and its taken ages just to get to that. I still can't change to and from the chord yet but hey its a start at least.
I am getting better at my Bmin bar chord and can just manage to switch to and from them in a song. |
#41
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You don't need long fingers. What you need is to practice it every day, even if it's only for a minute at first. Just try it a few times and move on. It takes time but you will get it.
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#42
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"Militantly left-handed." Lefty Acoustics Martin 00-15M Taylor 320e Baritone Cheap Righty Classical (played upside down ala Elizabeth Cotten) |
#43
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Lots of great advice here. All of my students and myself have struggled with this chord. But everyone has been able to conquer it with practice and determination! and a little pain
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#44
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When I first tried learning the guitar I used the easy F where the index finger bars the high e and b strings. I never progressed beyond the absolute beginner stage.
Some years later when I got serious about it, I decided to only go with the full barre F. I hadn't tried to guitar in 20 years and was a beginner all over again. It took me a good 3 or 4 months before the F started to sound good. It's worth the effort, hang in there. When I see beginners now who won't play anything other than the easy F, I encourage them to go with the full barre F. Funny thing is I have a couple of songs where the easy F is what I need and I now struggle to play that. Nothing a bit of practice wont' fix. |
#45
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Haha... I used to think the same way even though I have normal finger length.
Now I can barre F chord with quarter of the finger hanging outside the 6th string. Practice practice practice.
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Acoustic-Electric: Yamaha FGX800C, Jim Dandy. Seagull S6. Electric: Schecter C1+, Aria Pro II Fullerton. |