Changing the nut - what kind of glue

CelticDude · #1 10-25-2020, 10:45 AM

My BIL talked me into changing the saddle and nut of my FS800 (who wants urea on their guitar?) Looking online, the process seems fine, but there's conflicting advice on the glue to use on the nut. Use SuperGlue, don't use SuperGlue... What have people used?

Thanks,
CD

jim1960 · #2 10-25-2020, 10:52 AM

If you cut the nut well, it will fit snugly and no glue will be needed.

Kittoon · #3 10-25-2020, 10:55 AM

Superglue just can’t be right..

The Bard Rocks · #4 10-25-2020, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim1960

If you cut the nut well, it will fit snugly and no glue will be needed.

Once the strings are tight, it won't be moving.

Mirosh · #5 10-25-2020, 11:04 AM

Just a little smear of white wood glue. You just want to "tack" it in place so it stays with no strings on, but can be knocked off without tearing the wood.

hermithollow · #6 10-25-2020, 11:09 AM

Just a drop of superglue between the nut and the end of the fretboard is all that is needed to hold the nut in place for string changes and such. The nut can then be removed with a light tap if it needs to be replaced. It is possible to use many other types of glue to do this, but the idea is to not glue the nut so securely that it a major operation to remove it.

Zigeuner · #7 10-25-2020, 11:14 AM

I use a small dab of Titebond II to secure a nut. Haven't ever had one fall off yet. I keep superglue away from a finished guitar to prevent any damage to the finish. It has its place here and there in a guitar build, but it can wreak havoc on guitar finishes.

jim1960 · #8 10-25-2020, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Bard Rocks

Once the strings are tight, it won't be moving.

Every nut on every custom instrument I own fits snugly so it remains in place without glue. Will the nut work if it's loose, yes, but loose isn't the goal. Loose is what you live with if you overdo the sanding.

AcousticDreams · #9 10-25-2020, 11:54 AM

I am newly into nut making. But I was taught by a very good friend of mine who has 35 years of experience working on hundreds and hundreds of guitars.

He taught me that one of the most important factors is making sure that not only your Nut is flat, but the bottom of the channel is flat. The only way to get proper transference of nut to neck is for both of them to be totally flat.

This is where the problem of using Superglue comes in. Super glue is usually applied at just a couple of points on the bottom of the nut. It does not spread out evenly and can stop the bottom of the nut from touching the bottom of the nut channel evenly. This method is popular because it allows for the nut to be taken out cleanly and evenly with but just a gentle tap. But what happens is that the nut is only making contact at those two points where the superglue was applied. Titebond is applied by thinly spreading it over the entire bottom. But if you have to take the nut out it is much harder. YOu have to spend lots more time cleaning out the channel groove.

Without a doubt, making the nut and channel perfectly flat with titebond Substantially improved the tone.
I saw one video that suggested diluting Titebond to a 50/50 solution of it and water.

As for not gluing the nut down? Hmmm? I have wondered about that. After all we do not glue down a saddle. However, a Saddle rests on Ebony. Ebony is less effected by moisture. A nut rests on mahogany which is not only softer but has more pours as well. I certainly like the idea of not gluing down. Makes it easier for experimentation of Nut cuts and materials. But there might be a reason why Nuts have been glued down. I will have to ponder this question more.

CelticDude · #10 10-25-2020, 12:10 PM

I should maybe admit that I'm cheating a bit: I bought a pre-slotted nut. I'm hoping that fitting will be minimal. Given that this is a beater guitar, I'm not really worried about ever replacing the nut again, but, OTOH, I was thinking wood glue, or even hot glue (as advised by that famous luthier Martha Stewart) to tack the nut until strings were on.

RoyBoy · #11 10-25-2020, 12:20 PM

I use one small drop of Elmers white school glue on the side of the nut where it abuts the end of the fingerboard. Just enough to keep it from sliding.

AcousticDreams · #12 10-25-2020, 12:22 PM

Even with Beater Guitars....the Nut & Saddle materials, how they are made & fitted, can make a difference in your tone.

You might be surprised at the difference a properly made and fitted nut can make. Even with a beater guitar, you want to enjoy the tone.

kriso77 · #13 10-25-2020, 12:32 PM

Titebond has worked well for me. There is no way I would use super glue.

blindboyjimi · #14 10-25-2020, 02:38 PM

I put barely a drop of tight bond wood glue on my finger and just smear a tiny bit of that in the middle of the nut behind the G and D strings so it’s even less than a drop of glue. All you want to do is have the nut stay in place when you are changing strings. If your nut is tight enough, I’d not glue it.

dnf777 · #15 10-25-2020, 02:50 PM

Any type of aliphatic glue (elmers, titebond) or thin hide glue works fine, with just a tiny dab. Thin superglue (again, just a drop) is probably fine (it will level immediately and should not disrupt fit more than any other glue). If just playing for pleasure, you can get away without glue, just get ready to catch it when you change strings.

I got in the habit of using a drop Of glue. A very famous luthier said he doesnt want his nut to slip during a hard bend while on stage or ruin a perfect track in the studio! Bad publicity.