#61
|
|||
|
|||
Jason,
With standard sides and kerfing, when you route the binding channel which usually exposes some kerfing- you temporarily lose that drum boooooing sound when the tap is tapped until all bindings are in place. Does this still happen with laminated sides (or not because you never reveal the kerfing)? Thanks |
#62
|
||||
|
||||
Jason, in the event you are interested in seeing/hearing about other luthier's lamination fixturing, here is luthier Peter Oberg's (who learned from Robert Ruck). It looks quite similar to yours. His laminated sides use a different wood for the inner layers. In the example shown, the outer laminate is Black Cherry and the inner is Port Orford Cedar. The result is lightweight, stiff and it smells great to boot. Peter uses solid linings.
Good luck with you project! Quote:
__________________
A bunch of nice archtops, flattops, a gypsy & nylon strings… Last edited by iim7V7IM7; 02-12-2016 at 01:47 AM. |
#63
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I don't know that it is twice the weight, but it is heavier with my building style which entails building over normal thickness compared to a regular set of sides. With my rims, I also use a large neck block which adds to the weight, so my heavier rim is a result of a lot more than just the laminated sides themselves. I don't view this as a problem though. We are talking about a few ounces at most. Most of my clients play sitting down, so the added weight allows the guitar to rest easily in their lap when they play. The weight in the body helps to counterbalance the weight of the headstock and tuning machines, and to me, the result is a guitar that balances well in your lap and doesn't require you to fight the weight of the headstock as much with your fretting hand. Like I said, the sides are only one aspect of that weight in my rims...most of it is neck block related for me. I guess the proper way to convey this thought is that if I had a single side of East Indian Rosewood measuring .080" thick, and then had two sets of sides of EIR each measuring .040" thick, and I glued them together, the glue has mass, and permeates into the pores, so theoretically, even though they would be the same thickness, the laminated side would weight more given the glue saturation. Obviously there are different densities and such at play here, so there is no absolute with this, but that is my thought process. I would say in this example, the laminated sides would be more stiff as well. To me, that added stiffness outweighs the weight factor given that its nominal at best. Gustav Fredell used to build using a solid outer side, and two inner veneers. The overall affect was that his rim was incredibly stiff, but weighed less than a single side, so it is possible to build more lightly given your wood choices. In this example, Using an outer laminate of EIR with an middle laminate of holly and an inner one of dyed maple for instance would probably yield a lower weight than just EIR by itself to full thickness. I could be wrong with all of this, because I haven't played around with different options, but these are my overall thoughts. |
#64
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I still find that you get that same effect, although maybe not as much. I notice it when I glue the top and back on and get a certain tap tone, and then I route for the binding and that tone becomes muddled and not that exciting as we reduce the surface area and decrease the stiffness of the glue joint. Once the binding is glued in, I gain that response back, so it is pretty much the same as a standard kerfed back. One thing that I like about it though is that I am gluing my binding to a solid wood surface (no gaps between the binding) which makes for a more solid glue joint, and because I don't have the gaps in the binding, I don't get glue dripping into the body so there is no surprise cleanup like I used to get with a regular rim. |
#65
|
||||
|
||||
Interesting discussion of laminated sides.
Do you know if anyone has tried using thin carbon fiber or kevlar for the inner lamination? It might add strength with less weight.
__________________
Solo acoustic guitar videos: This Boy is Damaged - Little Watercolor Pictures of Locomotives - Ragamuffin |
#66
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I've tried that and I imagine that I'm not alone there. Inner and outer laminates in East Indian Rosewood with a few sheets of carbon fiber in-between. The result was a marginally lighter and "tougher" side. Combining that with slightly lighter woods for the blocks (Spanish cedar in my case) shaved a little under a pound off the final weight of the guitar. A nice weight savings but ultimately I went back to a similar style to Jason. Carbon fiber is really tough on tools and nasty to work with - even with the right protections I have adverse reactions to the dust. Enjoying the progress Jason, very cool!
__________________
Good, fast, cheap. Choose any two. |
#67
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The caliber of builders participating in the Custom Shop is staggering. We're lucky.
__________________
Solo acoustic guitar videos: This Boy is Damaged - Little Watercolor Pictures of Locomotives - Ragamuffin |
#68
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Julian, my brother from another luthier, is spot on in his assessment. There are some benefits but to me, I try to minimize the amount of time I spend working with carbon fiber. Currently I only use it for neck reinforcements and I find that if I do any sanding on it, it gets on my skin, and I have to go take a shower as I almost immediately start to itch and end up with irritated skin. I would prefer to not have to use it any more than necessary. The second thing is that carbon fiber isn't very good at adhering to a particular shape unless it is glued to something. Once you glue it to another bent side I guess it would be ok, but that carbon fiber sheet is going to most likely always want to be flat, which in my mind, induces some level of stress into the joint. By pre-bending the sides before laminating with wood sides, we have a more relaxed joint to work with. When I first started guitar building my attitude was much more of a "make it work" mentality. If the fit wasn't perfect, I used more glue or more clamps and got it to work. When I apprenticed with Ervin our attitude was more that every glue joint should go together without effort. I should be able to hold two things together with minimal pressure and there should be no gaps of any kind. The clamps are merely there to hold something in place so that I don't have to. A huge amount of clamping pressure should not be needed on a good fitting joint. In my opinion, this is just good woodworking and craftsmanship. As such, I feel like using a CF inner laminate would cause me to fight the natural desire of the sheet to be flat, allowing it to be curved only by clamping and gluing it really well. I have also had issues with wood and carbon fiber gluing together well when stress or shearing forces are placed on the joint. It is dependent on the glue and what is being done, but I just don't know that I would feel super comfortable with this laminate after the guitar is built. If something is going to go wrong, I would prefer that it happen during the build process and not later on down the road. In this case, I would feel pretty confident that the guitar would go together ok, but I would probably worry many nights after shipping the guitar out the door. Just my 2 cents, but thanks to Julian for sharing! |
#69
|
|||
|
|||
I've heard of people laminating silk (which is actually an extremely tough material and very hard to rip) between a wooden inner and outer layer. But as 99% of those who laminate attest, a simple two ply wood laminate is completely structurally sound- why over think it. (says he who has never done it
|
#70
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Solo acoustic guitar videos: This Boy is Damaged - Little Watercolor Pictures of Locomotives - Ragamuffin |
#71
|
|||
|
|||
Busy day today but all of the sides have been laminated, and cleaned up. Next these beauties will get fit into the rim. I will then make some neck blocks, tail blocks and cutaway blocks and begin blocking up the rims.
|
#72
|
||||
|
||||
Looking awesome. That arsenal of chisels looks fearsome.
That is some wonderful looking mahogany!
__________________
Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#73
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I always enjoy your sense of humor! The truth is that the chisels are for decoration purposes only! I would really hurt myself if I was allowed to use anything that sharp. They are just movie props made out of rubber, and I take these shots in a room in my house set up just for this type of picture! The wood is not mahogany, but rather master grade Balsa wood that a local artist painted to resemble Brazilian Rosewood, but now that I know you don't know the difference I will really enjoy surprising you with your upcoming 12 string, and the wood I choose to use! "No really Juston, pallets make the best guitars"! While I shouldn't need to say this, for the rest of you out there...the chisels are real, the photo is in my shop, and the sides are Brazilian Rosewood! Just clarifying so that tomorrow there is not a new AGF post about how Jason Kostal uses Balsa wood on his guitars, and his mommy prohibits him from using a chisel because they are sharp and he is accident prone. End of disclaimer! |
#74
|
|||
|
|||
Hey Jason, what is the grey thing hanging on the wall?
|
#75
|
|||
|
|||
Im guessing its a Peterson strobe tuner?
|