#1
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Taylor warranty what are your experiences any advice
Not played my 150E 12 string in a month or 2 and it was in its bag. Got it out and the action was crazy high. It was roughly 6mm at the 12 fret, the neck has almost no relief .I stacked 3 2mm picks as a quick check I have never had this happen to me in 40 years on an acoustic before. I have some old 70 Guild and a 62 Gibson LGO they are solid as rocks. It seems to have bellied after 8 months to a rather extreme amount So I went to Taylors website and looked for an authorized repair shop. sad to say they were all GC butchers and a shop that bungled a early 80s 62 ri strat repair, with a 500k -pot. So then read the web site and saw this issue seems to be a thing they called a wet guitar. So then read the fine print of the warranty and it seems this is t where they imply this is not their problem. If it was a 5k one I might have not treated it like all the rest but it is a 900.00 Mexi and figure it was pretty much a tank in construction. So curious how Taylor will react, I saw one place charged 200 to redo a neck on a Taylor: will they come through or with they. I doubt this guitar will go back to normal it is almost 2x what it was and spec. Should I try to get some help from Taylor, go to my trusted guy or call Sweet water and gripe to them. Never had an issue with a guitar maker before. This is only the 3rd new guitar I've bought since 1981.
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#2
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Some things to consider…
What Relative Humidity has the guitar been kept in? If it is consistently high, say above 60-65%, then this can cause the guitar soundboard to swell and will raise the action.
Your guitar has a solid wood top and is therefore just as prone to humidity issues as any other instrument made from solid wood plates. Laminated plates are more resistant to humidity changes but still not impervious. My first suggestion would be to expose the guitar to ideal RH 45-50% for a week or two to see what happens. You can either control the RH in the room the guitar resides or lower humidity within the case using one of the commercially available products. You should also contact Taylor directly. They have superb customer service and in my experience will do everything possible to remedy the issue. |
#3
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Sorry your 12 string is having trouble.
I would agree with Nik, Try Taylor directly. I only have good experiences when I've contacted customer support.
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Ray Gibson SJ200 Taylor Grand Symphony Taylor 514CE-NY Taylor 814CE Deluxe V-Class Guild F1512 Alvarez DY74 Snowflake ('78) |
#4
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I too have had good experiences with Taylor authorized repair shops. Since you've had bad experience with some, see whether the support line can recommend another option. Taylor neck repairs should be relatively easy for the right person.
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"I go for a lotta things that's a little too strong" J.L. Hooker |
#5
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I’ve had just one repair needed, it was done beautifully, and cost me relatively little. I had a good experience with Taylor Customer Service as well.
Taylor neck reset should also not be too much trouble being a bolt on. |
#6
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a thought
ONLY LET TAYLOR EXPERTS TOUCH THE GUITAR!
Taylors are unique engineering marvels, and nobody who wants to shave saddles and bridges should be allowed within arm's length. A neck angle adjustment will take less time than changing strings. And less effort. +1 on humidity advice. In my experience, Taylor factory service was smooth, easy, and fast. I think they set the standards for their industry. |
#7
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Spoke to Taylor today, they suggested a place not on the list, that does all sorts of repairs:band amp PA etc and the guy I use normally seems to subcontract on wood and finish repairs. So a plus. They seem to think If I dehumidify it will fix it and that slight belly is normal. Got a kit from Daddario coming. But as at the 12th Fret it is about 3.7 mm and Taylor says .075-.085 is stock and I am at about .146 that seems a tall order.
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#8
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Quote:
If you cut down the saddle it might just work but he high ee's would not have much of a break and that kicks the can down the road. Till next summer or after putting a steel ruler across the top behind the bridge the belly after 8 months is worse then an 80's Ibanez it replaced |
#9
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a thought
Taylor's advice if somebody wants to shave a saddle might well be to change the shim pack on the neck. Predictable and measurable and easily managed. And the break angles are unchanged. Yes, Taylor's thought this through.
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#10
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Quote:
Swapping Taylor shims can adjust the neck angle a lot more than that. I just did one on a used Taylor while the customer waited. Your reference to a $200 Taylor NT neck job is highway robbery, IMHO. |
#11
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[QUOTE=sixty2strat;7065259]
Yeah I saw one for 50 bucks vs the 200. The height I was told could be lowered by using 2 way humidity packs. Which seemed unrealistic. Been in there 3 days in the case and not one change. Talyor suggested a guy who has my normal tech do his finish work so while he is out in rural PA I trust him more based on that connection, so making the drive Tuesday to Amish country |
#12
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a thought
Sounds like OP is on a good road to setting up his instrument for his environment. I'd love to hear how it works out.
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#13
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I have never had much faith in altering top belly permenently by artificially raising or lowering humidity. I have found that it eventually will return to equilibrium with its environment.
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#14
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Don`t touch the saddle.
Get it to the repair guy Taylor mentioned. A neck reset will fix it for sure. |
#15
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my experiences with Taylor warranty doesn't allow me to give them any high praises...
as far as the belly you mention, in the case of my '80's K20 it is permanent and no amount of changing environment is going to change that...it has stayed stable in its current shape for many years now, but over time until that equilibrium occurred it was back to the factory numerous times for neck resets, and in the end replacing the bridge because the saddle had been moved back so many times the break angle was constantly breaking strings...imagine a young man with very little woodworking experience having to tell the warranty department to make a wedge to shove under the fingerboard to keep in in a straight line so one can actually play the notes past where the body meets the neck...pretty darned stupid if you ask me that a 23 year old is telling luthiers how to do their work...the last time it was back was for the bridge replacement and they mucked that up as well by gluing a replacement that didn't have the underside radius to match the actual top, this resulted in the bridge flexing to match the actual top and the slot also moving and requiring sanding a curve into the bottom of the saddle the night before a gig so the pickup sounded worth a flip...and they denied that could have happened... sheer stupidity by people who don't know how to think independently... so yeah, I give them a total fail |