Bridge Repair Tips

[Jacobnaylor]

Hi all!

I'm currently replacing the bridge on my cheap Acoustic, more for the experience to fix one, as well as to play it again. This is my project guitar, so I'm just trying to do as much to it as I can to it.

This is the first major guitar work I've done, but I've been doing small work on my other guitars for a while now (new tuners, Intonation changes, piezo repair etc.).

I have a new bridge, and a lot of general woodworking tools. But I wondered if anyone had any experience of changing bridges themselves, anything to remember and avoid.

Also, is now the right time (with the bridge removed) to try and humidify my guitar a little to try and adjust the belly?

Any help would be appreciated!

[JonWint]

1. Make sure new bridge matches old WRT saddle location so intonation remains OK (assuming it was previously). Measure to check.

2. Clean exact bridge footprint on top with straight-edged razor blade or equivalent. Repair any damage from old bridge removal.

3. Now is time to reduce belly. Read "belly reducer" instructions and make your own plates: https://proluthiertools.com/product/belly-reducer/

4. Make sure new bridge matches top surface closely. Some sources say perfect match not required.

5. Glue and clamp.

I am NOT a luthier.......

[Rodger Knox]

Originally Posted by JonWint

1. Make sure new bridge matches old WRT saddle location so intonation remains OK (assuming it was previously). Measure to check.

2. Clean exact bridge footprint on top with straight-edged razor blade or equivalent. Repair any damage from old bridge removal.

3. Now is time to reduce belly. Read "belly reducer" instructions and make your own plates: https://proluthiertools.com/product/belly-reducer/

4. Make sure new bridge matches top surface closely. Some sources say perfect match not required.

5. Glue and clamp.

I am NOT a luthier.......

Pretty good advice, and I do build guitars. Tape is your friend, use it to mask around the bridge footprint while cleaning off any old glue or finish. Leave it in place to keep glue off the finish.

Forget about reducing the belly.

Perfect match of the bridge to top may not be required, but the better the fit, the better the glue will hold. I'd use HHG, but Titebond original is OK too. I've used it on bridges, it works fine. You need to make cauls for the inside and outside for clamping the bridge, and you need clamps deep enough to reach the bridge from the soundhole.

[Jacobnaylor]

Cheers for the advice, Ill keep it in mind.

The previous bridge had dowels keeping it in place as well as glue, the new one doesn't, is it worth filling the holes left by this, and if so, what should I fill this with?


Thanks again!