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  #1  
Old 12-06-2017, 12:07 AM
TrashTreasyrt TrashTreasyrt is offline
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Default Parlor guitars that can be strung Nylon or Steel string

Is anyone aware of a Parlor sized guitar that can be strung with either Nylon or Steel strings other than the Martin 0-28 Ian Anderson model? Thanks!
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:33 AM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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Most guitars made before 1920 were designed for gut rather than steel strings. Often they sound quite nice this way - warm and woody rather than the twangy, boxy sound we are accustomed to.

You will notice that many of the fixed bridge guitars from this era generally have no intonation compensation. This indicates they were designed around gut strings rather than steel...
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:56 AM
Dondoh Dondoh is offline
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Martin 0-16ny can do either nylon or silk and steel strings. Folks also put XL steel strings on as well. Low tension is key.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:07 AM
zombywoof zombywoof is offline
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I know the Martin New Yorker was touted as being able to handle both steel and nylon strings. And while not a parlor guitar, the Gibson F-25 Folksinger was designed to be used with both nylon or steel strings.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:43 PM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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There is a bit more than 1/8" more compensation at the bridge on steel strings than gut/nylon.

If it's a fixed bridge guitar - you have to pick either steel or gut and set the intonation at the saddle accordingly... At least if you want it to play in tune past the 3rd fret....

The intonation will be completely out of whack on which ever one it is not set up for...

If you really want to experiment with switching back and forth to see how it goes - try out an old 1920's guitar that has a floating bridge/tailpiece. That way - you can just shift the bridge around to correct the compensation.
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Old 12-07-2017, 05:26 AM
AndrewG AndrewG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckjohn View Post
There is a bit more than 1/8" more compensation at the bridge on steel strings than gut/nylon.

If it's a fixed bridge guitar - you have to pick either steel or gut and set the intonation at the saddle accordingly... At least if you want it to play in tune past the 3rd fret....

The intonation will be completely out of whack on which ever one it is not set up for...

If you really want to experiment with switching back and forth to see how it goes - try out an old 1920's guitar that has a floating bridge/tailpiece. That way - you can just shift the bridge around to correct the compensation.
Also a nut cut for steel strings would not accommodate nylon strings (typically 28-43), just to add to the problems outlined above, and the reverse would also be true.
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Last edited by AndrewG; 12-07-2017 at 05:33 AM.
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