Sexauer/2020 (chapter3)

[MMdmd]

Bruce, could you please describe what you do between coats of varnish. What grit do you use to sand? Do you sand until the finish is uniformly dull? I am always concerned about sanding through my finish and as a result don’t flat sand enough. Also, do you seal after pore filling or go straight to varnish?
Any insight is appreciated.

[Guitars44me]

Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer

Tad's picture is the kindling used to insure a Boy Scout standard "One Match" fire start. And it was just that. I have an amazing amount of choice bits of BRW scrap put away for end grafts and truss rod covers and the like. Though it seems a shame to burn the stuff, I've run out of room to store it. Over the years many have asked me to save scraps for them for one valid sounding reason or another, and I have several times done so, only to have to burn it eventually for not a single time have they shown up to claim their treasure.

Bummer! Maybe if you charged a lot of money for these scraps??? Sigh...

Oh well. Carry on Sir

Paul

[Bruce Sexauer]

Originally Posted by MMdmd

Bruce, could you please describe what you do between coats of varnish. What grit do you use to sand? Do you sand until the finish is uniformly dull? I am always concerned about sanding through my finish and as a result don’t flat sand enough. Also, do you seal after pore filling or go straight to varnish?
Any insight is appreciated.

If you email me and ask for my Varnish Schedule, I will send it to you. It includes methods, products, and sources.

[Bruce Sexauer]

Because I installed the truss-rod into the Bluegrass Tool's neck a bit aggressively, cracking the back of the neck, I made it a new neck. The "old" neck actually repaired very well, but an educated eye can see it, still, I wouldn't want to toss it. So, I am making another body to fit it. This one will be more style 18 than style 28, simpler and from a mahogany-like wood, which I do not know the name of. It was sold to me as Honduran, but it isn't, IMO. The top was sold to me as Adirondack, which it isn't either, but it IS American Red Spruce, and I expect this guitar to be strong and dry like the best Pre-war D18s.

Meet "Bluegrass Fool":

[awchiu]

Very nice beeswing pattern! Is this material denser than typical Honduran Mahogany?

[Bruce Sexauer]

Yes, a bit harder, more like Sapele or Makore, which it may well be.

[Guitars44me]

Two Bluegrass cannons coming right up! This is pretty neat. When life gives you limes, make margaritas...

Salud

Paul

[irvine]

Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer

...and from a mahogany-like wood, which I do not know the name of. It was sold to me as Honduran, but it isn't, IMO.

Could be Bocote

[Bruce Sexauer]

Originally Posted by irvine

Could be Bocote

It is not Bocote.

[Bruce Sexauer]

I never get tired of watching my bracing evolve. No two the same, etc etc. This is the Bluegrass Fool today, just after cleaning the glue up around the end blocks:

[Calves2997]

That is a gorgeous top Bruce!
Is that Jatoba for the bridge?

[Bruce Sexauer]

Originally Posted by Calves2997

That is a gorgeous top Bruce!
Is that Jatoba for the bridge?

Hard maple, actually, being what Martin allegedly used at the time.

[Bruce Sexauer]

Closing the "Bluegrass Fool" in five pictures:

[Bruce Sexauer]

I have started the binding process on the Bluegrass Fool, and I am doing something interesting, I think. The binding is made from the cut-off from the sides of the Bluegrass Tool. I couldn't bring myself to be quite as simple as style 188, and have added very subtle red/black purfling to all back and side edges. You'll see soon, though it is possible it will be too subtle for this digital medium.

[Bruce Sexauer]

I blazed through the binding stage w/o taking any pictures of the "Bluegrass Fool". Today it has pore filler and sealer, and I took time for a few shots:





The thin (.010") red line:



The koa purfling and rosette elements: