Should I be taking my 12 string to my Luthier....

[phavriluk]

Sounds like OP has a Taylor 12-string. My opinion, and it's an opinion, not fact, is that the string change be offloaded to a luthier who's also going to test/set nut slots, relief, fret leveling and maybe address string height driven by the saddle. A general tune-up. Won't be a trivial expense, but that guitar wasn't cheap, either, and it might benefit from attention beyond what the factory did.

And if the instrument was mine, I'd be putting on another set of some kind of coated long-life strings, like the Elixers being replaced.

[Racerbob]

Well Frank, what really matters is to not accidently over tightening the string while bringing others up to pitch. As I'm sure you are well aware as one string is brought up to pitch the tension on others can change as they all work as a whole.

Since it is far more common for the G octive string to break compared to others, it's one way to avoid inadvertently over tensioning it.

[EZYPIKINS]

Hey, you gotta learn sometime. We all did. Just suck it up, and go for it. I learned on my Dad's guitars. An old Gibson archtop and a Ventura Hummingbird 12 string copy. It was the 70's before I ever saw a pitch pipe. I would have to listen to records. Decide what key a song was in. And tune guitar accordingly. Sometimes I would be tuning up a half or whole step. So I ended up playing 10 and 11 strings on my 12 allot. Today everyone has electronic tuners. Even the crappy ones are better then when I started. But you learn by your mistakes. So, go for it.

[Silly Moustache]

I have two 12 strings. Both are slotted headstocks.

the Martin has a pi bridge with bass stings behind the octaves, and the other is a Harmony with a tailpiece arrangement so no pins but challenges getting the ball ends underneath the cross bar.

I changed the strings on my Martin yesterday.

I tune both guitars one tone down (D-d) and I use 12-54 gauge on both - Martin bronze on the harmony, and D'addario PB on the Martin.

I only replace strings every 3-4 months as they get less use than my sixes.

I remove all old strings, clean and polish. and check inside for dust bunnies or other lodgers.

I restring from the outside in. 6th course, then 1st, then 5th, then 2nd etc.

I precut strings to about 3" past the barrels (I have more precise measurements per string based on long experience).

I don't knot strings. I simply for a 90 degree bend in them to drop into the hole in the capstan.

Wind on holding the string under light tension with your right hand.
Don't even try to get them to tension, just enough to hold them in place.

The octave G is the troublesome one - as it is so ridiculously thin - .010 on my sets.
Yesterday, the octave G broke before I got it near tension to F and the same thing happened when I changed the Martins on the Harmony a moth or so back.
Always have spare octave Gs.

Bring them up to tension slowly, checking as you go.
Stretch all carefully,
Allow guitar to settle.
Job done and you'll be proud of yourself!

[bufflehead]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

I have two 12 strings. Both are slotted headstocks.

Glutton. For. Punishment.

[merlin666]

I find it no different than changing 6 string, no reason to bring it to a luthier. I also prefer to change one string at a time though if I see some dirt accumulation under the string I take them all off for cleaning. It is quite easy.

[tadol]

Originally Posted by bufflehead

Glutton. For. Punishment.

Absolutely!

[jseth]

I'd say that changing the strings on my 12 string takes me at least three times longer than my 6 strings... don't know why, but that seems to be the case.

I use Elixir strings on my guitars; on the 12 string they last a LONG time, like up to 18 months for a set! One of the reasons I love 'em... 18 months and they still sound great and intonate just fine, what's not to like?!!!

Because they're on the guitar for so long, I usually do some cleansing of the fretboard and polish the fret wires when I finally change strings. I don't always do this for my 6 string guitars, but the 12 string gets this treatment.

Of course, for working on the fretboard, I take all the strings off the guitar. Possibly not necessary, but I always keep track of which bridge pins are which, so they go back in the guitar in the same places. I don't change that paired G string last, either...so long as the nut and saddle are working properly, it won't break on you...

If your guitar is in need of a set-up, by all means get it done, but don't be afraid of changing the strings on your 12 string... just pay attention to what you're doing!

I know that a great set-up can make a 12 string play as easily as it can, but, I'm sorry, guys... 12 string guitars are just a BEAST! So different than 6 string guitars, and absolutely NOT "easy to play"!!!

My 12 string was built by Mark Angus in 1983, from a template of a Guild F-4112. It has a great neck and low action... and it's STILL a BEAST to play! I love it...

[phavriluk]

Thing is, if OP doesn't know how his guitar can play when optimized with some luthier's adjustments and insight, I don't think the notion's that such ought to be done will arise all by itself. Somewhere there needs to be an epiphany of some sort, from 'wow, this thing can play like THAT?' to 'this is a malicious beast'.

[guitarxan]

12 strings are a beast, but they don’t have to be hard to play. Sure fatigue sets in earlier, at least for me, and they take a long time to string. But one properly set up is a joy!! I’ve had both kinds of 12 strings and let a really nice Guild go because I was too young and stupid to know what a setup was.

Combined with light strings, 1/2 step tune down and a good tuner the beast can be tamed. At least that’s my recipe for 12 string bliss. Of course as with everything, YMMV!

[tonyo]

Originally Posted by justonwo

String changing is really something any guitar player should do themselves, including for a 12 string. There is absolutely no issue with removing all the tension from your guitar by removing all the strings. Take your time and go one string at a time.

Just watch the videos put out by the likes of Taylor and Martin guitars on how to change your strings. They remove all the tension by removing all the strings. Good enough for them, good enough for me.

My fav luthier / guitar shop also has a video on changing strings and they remove all the strings first. It also makes it a LOT easier to clean the muck off your fretboard.

[L20A]

Does your 12 string have a compensated saddle?
Look at the first picture posted above to see a compensated saddle. \The second picture is a regular saddle with no compensation.

If your saddle is not compensated, I would suggest getting one.
This will help a lot with tuning the 12 string.
Your tech will know what to do either way.

Yes have the guitar set up and then you learn to replace the strings.
Coated strings are a great choice for a 12 string for a couple of reasons.
Most of all they last longer so you don't change string as often.
Coated strings also do better at staying fresh when not being played for a long duration.

Let us know what happens when you take the guitar to the tech.

[FoxHound4690]

Originally Posted by Dru Edwards

Hi FoxHound. String changing is no different on a 12 string than on a 6 string. No need to get a luthier involved unless you think you need a setup. If you want one make sure you can articulate what you're looking for. No need asking for a setup if there's nothing you need.

Do you take all the strings off before restringing? Or one at a time and replace?

Hi Dru,

With my 6 string (Maton 808) I always take all 6 strings off at once, because I love to get in and condition the fretboard nicely with dunlop 65 and get rid of all the dust that accumulated around the headstock and bridge areas before putting the new strings on.

I'm quite proficient at doing my own maintenance on 6 string guitars but a 12 string is just a different beast altogether and that's why i've felt a little intimidated by it. I have heard of the octave G being a nusance for breaking too and because over here in Aus elixir's are expensive, the 10-47 gauge set for a 12 string is $59 which is about $42 USD so they're not cheap and that's one reason why i've thought about just getting my luthier to do it because he's extremely experienced and has probably got the knack for doing 12 strings. I've seen 12 string guitars in his work room many times so he does a fair few of them.

But yeah getting back to my original answer, Yes i do tend to take all strings off at once for cleaning purposes.

[donlyn]

Well FoxHound4690,

Whatever you decide, welcome to 12 string guitars. I currently play Taylor 12 stringers and love the Elixir strings if for not other reason than they increase the intervals between string changing. And I do like how they sound. Sorry they cost so much for you, but a 12 string set will set you back a pretty penny in the US too.

Let me leave you with a quick tip on tuning. Do use a digital tuner. And when you get done, go back and tune it again. Depending on how much tension you had to change to get the beast in tune, the strong and shifting string tensions can knock it out of tune a bit as you go along. Thus a second pass can be necessary. I've been playing 12 stringers since the mid 60s, and was only able to prove this happened after I got my first digital tuner.

Don
.

[guitarwebguy]

Great thoughts by all .... it can be a harrowing experience the first time you change strings on your 12 string ... before you change them, grab your phone and take. A picture of the bridge and strings BEFORE your change them .... makes it easier to remember the string order and the saddle (especially if you get a compensated one .... ), I’m a fan of racerbob’s comments regarding the high G .... I have a tendency to over tighten initially and have broken many a high G, but when I wait and do the tuning (not the initially stringing) last , at least for me, I’ve found a break fewer of them! Enjoy your 12 string - it’s like playing a grand piano, so much wonder sound