#1
|
|||
|
|||
DYI neck reset?
Anyone ever done their own neck reset?
I have a guitar that needs one but it’s not worth a whole lot so I don’t really want to pay full price for a tech to do it. I have a little bit of luthier training, enough to feel pretty confident in doing it myself. I was thinking of getting the Stew Mac hot rod - reviews say it’s the best new method for heating up the neck joint. I’m mostly concerned with loosening the fingerboard from the top. Can anyone recommend a thin tool for gently loosening the glue underneath the board? Or any other method for that part of the process? Thanks for any advice! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
First confirm your neck joint is a dovetail or similar and not a bolt on or glued on with dowels.
You most likely don't need fancy tools like the hot rod. I usually use a basketball needle or thin brass tubing and some rubber hose hooked to an old pressure cooker when I need to inject steam. I use a household clothing iron on the fretboard extension and pallet knives to get under it. A very thin putty knife is an alternative. Cardboard around it will protect the finish. If it's not a valuable guitar, sawing the neck off and converting to a bolt on is an alternative. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
A thin spatula, a old cloths iron to heat the fretboard. What guitar is it, maybe someone can tell you what type of attachment you are dealing with?
And because I know you all will be asking...
__________________
Fred |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Sure that shaving the bridge isn't an option? Sure a lot easier...and since it's a cheaper guitar it might be a decent option.
__________________
"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I've learned the hard way that buying tools and researching how to do something in an effort to save money can sometimes be a very expensive undertaking. Especially if your time is worth anything. If it's something you want to do for the experience, go for it. But, personally speaking, my days of performing surgery on cheap guitars are over.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
It’s a 50s Levin acoustic, so not junk by any means but the cost of a reset would probably be more than what I paid for it. I’m fairly confident in my abilities but also know my limits. I have done one reset on an old Silvertone. I guess my main concern is finish damage in the top.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I would think that a 70 something year old Levin with a recent professional reset would be worth a fair bit to the right buyer.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Levin uses a bolt on neck so of all the DIY neck resets this one will be the easier one. The heel is glued to the body though. You might get away with removing the bolts and 'flossing' the heel to the proper back angle. Lots of info on the Internet so start a search.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Does yours have a truss rod? And I should have been more specific is it a steel string guitar? Or is in nylon classical guitar? |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
No worries, I didn’t give any details in my first post.
It’s a steel string, but like many of their steel strings it’s designed like a classical. String thru bridge, wide neck, ladder bracing. No truss rod. It’s still playable as is but I’d like to be able to lower the action a little more and the saddle is at the lowest point it can go. Bridge is already pretty low and it’s Brazilian so I’d hate to shave it. I’ll do some more research. I’m in no hurry. I’ll also ask around for neck reset quotes. Maybe it’s not as expensive in my area? I honestly have no idea what one costs. I’d want a good pro with a lot of experience. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
a thought - - - opinions
Quote:
Best to find that luthier and talk this over in person, hands-on. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Yeah, if it's a Spanish heel, that's a whole different animal.
__________________
"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
There always is the slipped heel method.
__________________
Fred |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
There's a guy in AU (?) who has been promoting a steam alternative to neck resets, essentially resetting the body itself to correct deformation and not removing any wood. I'm normally dismissive of alternative tricks and such but I do think it may be legit. I successfully corrected a warped top using steam in a similar manner and it's been stable for 6 years so I think it's worth looking into and I plan to try it the next time the need arises. My only concern is the bracing staying in place but it wasn't an issue in my case so it may not be a problem. You can find his vids when searching YouTube.
|