DYI neck reset?

[rollypolly]

Little update. Had some time today to research, etc. From a little online reading I did, it sounds like Levins are either dovetail or bolt on necks, so mine is a dovetail. That’s reassuring if I do choose to reset the neck or have it done, at least we know it should be straight forward. Also in one thread online the poster said that Levin left a gap somewhere around the neck block where you can inject steam right into the joint. I’ll poke around with my mirror and see if I can see the same gap on mine.

I looked closer at the bridge and it does seem high enough to where it could be shaved a bit. Maybe 1/32” - 1/16” , probably no more than that. That might get me 1/32” - 1/16” lower action which isn’t much. Still, the guitar is playable as is. It’s got a lighter build and deeper sound than a 50s LG-1 I owned. The LG-1 was more strummable and maybe more balanced, but that might also have to do with the fact that I only use silk and steels on the Levin. I’m scared to try regular strings on that pass thru bridge.

[davenumber2]

This video may be helpful:
https://youtu.be/va7pyyGOO8M?si=HoOBDi1X_kvRid5P

[RogerHaggstrom]

In the 1950s, the cheap and affordable Levin's had a butt-on glued neck to the neck block, not a dovetail. The end of the neck have straight edges on the sides in the neck pocket. This means that the neck is only held by glue, often hot hide glue. The glue is on the sides and at the end of the neck in the neck pocket with no gaps. The most expensive Levin's from the 30s and onwards may have a dove-tail. The ones after the Martin buyout do have dovetails.

I always add a wooden screw through the neck block from the inside.

[Henning]

Hello, please try the John Miner neck reset method. You may follow the discussion at the AGF here: https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=613956

Best regards and good luck!

[rollypolly]

Ok after some more research and getting the right tools I decided to attempt to remove the neck. I’m happy to report it was a success. After reading about the old method of cutting the fretboard where it meets the body and removing the extension to reveal the joint, I went with that method.

Main reason I did this is because the fretboard on this Levin is already very thin. Thinner than any fretboard I’ve seen. It’s 1/8” thick. So I figured there’d be a risk of it cracking off anyways. Once the extension was removed I could easily inject steam into the joint. The joint was extremely tight. After several steam injections I was able to softly tap the neck away from the body.

[Henning]

Originally Posted by printer2

And because I know you all will be asking...

I realize a made the most unforgivable, terrible mistake not going to spatula city, but, instead a local art shop. There, a sweet little spatula, originally meant for painting became mine at the cost of ~ 5 USD. Unfortunately I wasn't educated about the existence of, neither did I have the ability to visit S.C.
If you intend to tell me that a bigger spatula is better, I am prone to agree.