Build Thread: Stahl Style #6 inspired. - Page 7

Sam VanLaningham · #91 10-19-2013, 11:22 PM

Cool! I know you are looking for answers but I got questions! Did you radius braces and use 3x5 card trick? If so how'd it go?

Also, why are there distinct gaps between bridge plate and braces, braces and other braces etc? Ok nice progress.

Sam

clinchriver · #92 10-20-2013, 06:52 AM

It very well braced

, Why is the bridge plate skewed away from the X bracing and tone bar? Curious?
Also you have to get one finished and decide what you will do differently on #2.
I just strung up #3 and its quite a progression. Good Luck.

Steven Bollman · #93 10-20-2013, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Left of Sam

Cool! I know you are looking for answers but I got questions! Did you radius braces and use 3x5 card trick? If so how'd it go?

Also, why are there distinct gaps between bridge plate and braces, braces and other braces etc? Ok nice progress.

Sam

Hi LoS, I actually used staggered wooden door shims. They seemed to work well when a few are staggered. My radius was tight (12' is what the design called for) so I found the larger stack of cards a bit fiddly. As for brace placement, again, just following the plans.

Steven Bollman · #94 10-20-2013, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clinchriver

It very well braced

, Why is the bridge plate skewed away from the X bracing and tone bar? Curious?
Also you have to get one finished and decide what you will do differently on #2.
I just strung up #3 and its quite a progression. Good Luck.

Hi clinchriver. The bridge plate is skewed according to the plan. I suppose I will make a second. I have some sinker honduran mahogany and old lutz spruce for the next one.

Howard Klepper · #95 10-20-2013, 11:59 AM

Your plan differs a lot from the way I build; I can't really critique it. You are going to clean up the glue excess, right? That is more easily done before it hardens.

I see that you routed all the way through the top for part of your rosette. Get that entirely backed up or it will some day open up. A thin spruce layer will do.

Steven Bollman · #96 10-20-2013, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

Your plan differs a lot from the way I build; I can't really critique it. You are going to clean up the glue excess, right? That is more easily done before it hardens.

I see that you routed all the way through the top for part of your rosette. Get that entirely backed up or it will some day open up. A thin spruce layer will do.

Mistakes were made... My router depth slipped more than I thought. As I did some additional thinning if the top I broke through in a few spots. I was wondering if I should patch it. Thx for suggesting that. My experience with hhg is with this guitar. I got some tips on how to prepare it, but I didn't realize how tough it is to clean up after it dries. There is a lot of learning happening in this first build.

Sam VanLaningham · #97 10-20-2013, 05:04 PM

Hey Steven, Howard et al - so I've seen some people shellac insides. Then I've read some people use HHG as seal coat. Why not "seal" the inside of the top with HHG to make it uniform? Obviously I know next to nothing/ enough to screw up, but it's a thought I've been having for my own build.

Sam

Steven Bollman · #98 10-21-2013, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Left of Sam

Hey Steven, Howard et al - so I've seen some people shellac insides. Then I've read some people use HHG as seal coat. Why not "seal" the inside of the top with HHG to make it uniform? Obviously I know next to nothing/ enough to screw up, but it's a thought I've been having for my own build.

Sam

Hi LoS,

I have seen photos of what you are talking about, but I don't know anything it. I am in the process of scraping the glue off.

Sam VanLaningham · #99 10-21-2013, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steven Bollman

Hi LoS,

I have seen photos of what you are talking about, but I don't know anything it. I am in the process of scraping the glue off.

Just as an FYI, I scoured the forum and internet in general and learned the following:

- Mcknight shellacs insides.
- klepper tried it for awhile but no longer does it.
- Sexauer wonders why anyone would do it (I paraphrase).
- John Arnold sometimes does it (I think).

Some believe it might help to mitigate humidity issues. Some believe it might change tone. You might have already gleaned all this info as well but whateva!

Sam

Steven Bollman · #**100** 10-21-2013, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Left of Sam

Just as an FYI, I scoured the forum and internet in general and learned the following:

- Mcknight shellacs insides.
- klepper tried it for awhile but no longer does it.
- Sexauer wonders why anyone would do it (I paraphrase).
- John Arnold sometimes does it (I think).

Some believe it might help to mitigate humidity issues. Some believe it might change tone. You might have already gleaned all this info as well but whateva!

Sam

Thx for the casual survey! It's interesting. At the moment, I'll leave it bare, but explore the pros and cons.

Rodger Knox · #**101** 10-21-2013, 12:53 PM

Shellac is not an effective moisture barrier, it does slow the change in moisture content of the wood in response to humidity changes, but it does not prevent it. Protection against humidity changes is limited.

The argument against shellacing the inside of the box is that it makes future repairs more difficult.

There doesn't seem to me to be any compelling reasons to favor shellac or no shellac inside the box.

Steven Bollman · #**102** 10-21-2013, 04:42 PM

The back thickness (Brazilian Rosewood) called for in the plan is mostly running around 2.0-2.2mm (some areas as low as 1.7 and as high as 2.4mm). Is that reasonable? Is it significantly more fragile at that thickness. I have currently hand planed it to a pretty consistent 2.75mm thick. I thought I would take a pause and see if there's any prevailing wisdom about the final thickness. Thx.

Steven Bollman · #**103** 11-02-2013, 12:28 AM

Even though I haven't posted lately, I have been busy working away on the guitar. Here I am thicknessing (thinning) the back plate.

Here's what the back plate looks like with the braces glued on but not yet shaped.

These handy tools are good for radiusing the edges of the braces.

Shaped braces. Still some fine tuning to do...

Outtards

Innards

Sam VanLaningham · #**104** 11-02-2013, 07:24 PM

looking good to this novice! Seems like the top has a lot of brace mass yes?

Cool and nice progress. Sam

Howard Klepper · #**105** 11-02-2013, 10:42 PM

Why are you ending the back crossgrain strip at the braces instead of continuing to the neck and tail blocks?