The Acoustic Guitar Forum

Go Back   The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Build and Repair

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #16  
Old 08-28-2016, 03:31 PM
Slight Return Slight Return is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 117
Default

I'll also add that I cut this nut by eye before I was aware of this method. You can tell I got the low E string course much closer together than the A string course. I feel like this nut came out reasonably well, but the spacing is not perfect, and I could do much better now.

Surprisingly it doesn't rattle at all, plays great and sounds fine, certainly MUCH better than it did before. Most factory nuts are abysmal IMO, in terms of being cramped way too far in, and a lot of times even the between-string spacing, and I would recommend anyone interested to give cutting a nut a try, as it can make or break a guitar.

Anyway, the nut did split in some parts (cosmetic issue; the strings hold more than fine) because the course spacing I got is so narrow, but I could've avoided that by not starting out with leaving the nut blank so high.

To prevent this, it's a good idea to mark out around where your final slot depth will be so you can shape the nut down appropriately, to leave around 1/3 or 1/2 or so of the wound string diameter sitting above the slot. By the time I got the slot depth right, the strings were buried in the nut, and when I went to file it again, the slightest turning of the file split the 'wall' in the nut right off.

A big part of preventing this problem is also gradually moving up in nut slot file gauges, instead of going straight for a .056, for example. If your razor saw set marks are perfect, start out with a .016" or .020" nut file and work up to the desired gauge, just to make sure it doesn't wander at all. Because it can and will...I learned that lesson big time on the first bass nut I tried cutting, especially on the .105" E string.

If you're doing narrower string courses (which is all I will ever use on 12 strings now -- I'm convinced that's the way they should be set up, and I play a lot of 12 string)....keep that in mind.

Even with narrow spacing, if your nut blank is shaped pretty low, it's unlikely the bone will split if you're careful.

For example, check out how close the courses are on the Taylor LKSM, which is what made me decide to try making a nut like it for my own 12 string:

Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-09-2016, 11:03 AM
slidincharlie slidincharlie is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Palermo, Italy
Posts: 40
Question

Thanks you very much Slight Return for taking the burden to write your post. It took a while to reading but it does make much sense.
I have a 12-string guitar with a flat fretboard, for what reason it is hard to play; furthermore the spacing between strings in each pair is excessive. If I keep this guitar (considering the fretboard issue) I will definitely apply your method to make me a new nut.
BUT... while your method ensures spacing at the nut, how do I get the desired spacing at the saddle, where the distances are forced by the pin holes position?

Last edited by slidincharlie; 12-09-2016 at 11:08 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 08-15-2021, 04:44 PM
Slight Return Slight Return is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 117
Default 12 String Nut Slotting Tutorial on YouTube

Just uploaded this. I remembered writing here a few years ago, but only recently finally got around to making a video about my process for doing this, which I've refined. My Blueridge 12 string is playing better than ever.

Anyway, hope someone here can enjoy. You may be the only people on the face of the earth who might be able to get something out of the time and effort I put into making this tutorial.

Note: I am using very narrow spacing, but no string 'crashing' and using .028" between every string pair actually ended up working out like a dream:

https://youtu.be/ZjuC2NpXB9U
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 08-15-2021, 05:34 PM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Granby, CT
Posts: 2,951
Default A thought

Buy a string layout template (free promotion here) from Luthier's Cool Tools. 6-string on one side, 12-string on the other. No guessing, easy to adjust, infinite range of widths. No need to guess or apply rules-of-thumb. I've used mine several times, 12-string lncluded.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 08-16-2021, 07:44 AM
hess hess is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 132
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slight Return View Post
Just uploaded this. I remembered writing here a few years ago, but only recently finally got around to making a video about my process for doing this, which I've refined. My Blueridge 12 string is playing better than ever.

Anyway, hope someone here can enjoy. You may be the only people on the face of the earth who might be able to get something out of the time and effort I put into making this tutorial.

Note: I am using very narrow spacing, but no string 'crashing' and using .028" between every string pair actually ended up working out like a dream:

https://youtu.be/ZjuC2NpXB9U
Thank you for work on this. Very clever and useful imo.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 08-16-2021, 08:38 AM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is offline
Charter Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The Isle of Albion
Posts: 22,132
Default

Hi, I hope this is resolved for the OP.

I'm too much of a ninny to attempt my own nut slotting, but I do own a Martin D12-20 with a1 & 7/8" nut, so I guess I could check out the spacings with a digital doodah for you.
__________________
Silly Moustache,
Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer.
I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom!
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 08-16-2021, 02:39 PM
maxtheaxe maxtheaxe is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: N. Oregon Coast
Posts: 1,368
Default

Wow...resurrected thread from five years ago; I wish I'd known about the Luthier's Cool Tool template back when I was sweating this, but looks like a very useful item...http://www.luthierscooltools.com/Too...String%20Gauge

I finally got it more or less sorted out several years ago; I got the high E course a bit tight, but doesn't collide; the guitar plays and sounds wonderful now and it only took four tries!

Thanks again for the responses!
__________________
Larrivee L-10 Custom
Larrivee DV-10K
Larrivee L-03
Taylor 412K ('96)
Yamaha LL16-12 (SOLD)
PRS 'Studio' (SOLD)
Rickenbacker 660-12 (SOLD)
Fender USA Deluxe Strat
Fender USA Roadhouse Strat
Fender MIM/USA Partscaster
Fender MIM Nashville Tele
Kelsey Custom Hardtail Strat
Fender MIM P-Bass
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 08-16-2021, 11:52 PM
Slight Return Slight Return is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 117
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hess View Post
Thank you for work on this. Very clever and useful imo.
Absolutely! Beyond thrilled if it was helpful for you.

@maxtheaxe

Glad you got it sorted out! I think I may have done the nut on my 12 string around the same time as I posted my original response. Just wanted to "update" here as my original post seemed very confusing, and I wanted to make a presentable video to clearly convey my method for doing this, which I think anyone can do.

It all started with a 12 string bass...the three string courses just made me go "Huh?"

But no sweat with that method. 12 string basses are enough to make anyone's head spin. Ugh! But we love 'em anyway!

My string pairs, by the way, were VERY close, but work well. I was actually surprised. I'd be curious how close your E string pairs are. I do find that the closer you can get them without buzzing, the better it feels, as you maximize the distance between each string course, which makes accidental muting and fretting much less likely. Mine's playing better than ever as well!
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 09-04-2021, 05:56 PM
Joe Sixpack Joe Sixpack is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 25
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxtheaxe View Post
I'm trying to sort out the best way to lay out string slots on a new nut for my Yamaha 16-12. I have the Safe-Slot Nut Guard for the depth and it comes with a string spacing ruler, unfortunately these rulers are laid out for 6-string spacing; my question to Stewmac about this yielded a response that wasn't satisfactory, to wit: "Lay it out for 6-string and cut the slots on either side of the marks".

Really? Is this the way it is done by guys who do it all the time/for a living? Kudos if you can do that, but speaking as a reasonably qualified hack, I'd like to know if there is a more accurate process, or a ruler on the market that takes 12-string spacing into account.

I've done several 6-string nuts...have it down pretty well, but in this case, I've had a "qualified Luthier" do this 12-string for me twice now and he pooched it both times, so it's down to me. The new bone nut is perfectly fitted to the nut slot...now I just need proper, proportional string spacing at the 1 7/8" nut.

Any better/best ideas before I blow my brains out?

Thanks!
Can't you use the old nut as a template?
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 09-04-2021, 08:08 PM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Granby, CT
Posts: 2,951
Default A thought

Go buy a nut slot layout template from Luthier's Cool Tools. No more smoke signals emanating from one's ears. Tapered layouts, will fit any size nut. I used it for my 12-string.
Reply With Quote
Reply

  The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Build and Repair

Thread Tools





All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, The Acoustic Guitar Forum
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=