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  #1  
Old 03-25-2020, 04:29 PM
viento viento is offline
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Location: northern Germany (Dutch border) + south of Spain
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Default Need for primer or grain filler...?

I want to spray spruce and maple with nitro lacquer.
Do I need primer or grain filler before applying the nitrocellulose lacquer?
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Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes
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Old 03-25-2020, 05:07 PM
Glen H Glen H is offline
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I would not use any with those woods.
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Old 03-25-2020, 05:24 PM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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No need. Maple has relatively small pores, and spruce has none. Hardwoods that benefit from pore filler are mahogany, rosewood, ash, walnut, oak, etc. These are called 'open pored' woods.
If by 'primer' you mean sealer, then I have not seen the need for that, either. An oily wood like rosewood can occasionally cause some fisheye when lacquer is applied directly. But there are methods to deal with that. That won't be an issue with maple.
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:15 PM
viento viento is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: northern Germany (Dutch border) + south of Spain
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I had almost forgotten the guitar in the loft but now I'm making it playable again for my little granddaughters.
Originally it had a kind of ladder bracing but the braces were loose and one was split - I donīt know why...
Btw, this guitar is more than 50 years old. It was cheap then and simple even though made of solid wood.

Well,hereīs a few photos:

The sanded body, neck and old fingerboard with unprocessed new one:



The back, with a new purfling that was still lying around on the shelf
and cracks and stains, which I have secured inside and which are going to be filled before painting.
I made an x-bracing that is glued over it as well. So there will not be any problem.The neck block is ok.



Fret slots are also a chapter in themselves.
Their division comes from stewmac.com, measured with my digital caliper and controlled three times
with ruler and large graph paper, because my ruler is too short ...
The fret saw is held vertically between 2 aluminum blocks that are really rectangular and lubricated with "Silverglide"
so that it doesn't jam or wobble. Hitting the exact spots on the markings isnīt easy ...
Later Iīll saw the correct depth of the slots with a depth-stop on the blade
before the "handy" (!) grinding of the radiusing.



When the work seems to be going on well, sometimes the "wickedness of inanimate things" occurs:
I had only finished half of the milling for the binding on the underside when the ball bearing of the milling suddenly died.
For a new order it was half an hour too late on Saturday evening. Let's see when the new delivery will arrive...



I had almost forgotten that I still had on my shelf
a few remaining pieces of paua for a ring around the soundhole.
The bridge from my last piece of rosewood is also finished.


That’s it for today.
Stay healthy and alert!
__________________
Thanks!




Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes

Last edited by viento; 03-30-2020 at 11:18 AM.
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