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  #16  
Old 07-24-2019, 05:35 PM
jp2558 jp2558 is offline
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I have a ‘92 EF-341C, with, I believe laminated but back and sides, and maybe even the top too. I bought it used in ‘92 and today it is my campfire guitar. When I gigged with it, plugged directly into the PA, it sounded great. It will never compete with my Martin’s, but it stays in tune and will go anywhere I don’t feel comfortable taking a Martin. Knowing what I know now, I could have bought a nice Tak acoustic and a Tak classical/nylon string for the price I paid for my last Martin. In retrospect I wish I had done just that.
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  #17  
Old 07-24-2019, 05:36 PM
bsman bsman is offline
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I also have a G-series 12-string (to be precise, an EG523SC-12) I bought used on a whim back around 2008 or so. It continue to amaze me - not only does it sound great either amplified or unamplified, but there have been zero issues with the action, the top, or the bridge. It is a heavy, solid beast, and I think that may be why it has been as steady as a rock for the past ten years.

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  #18  
Old 10-11-2019, 02:05 PM
thechoochlyman thechoochlyman is offline
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Found this thread and figured I'd show off a few. Taks are definitely my favorite "store brand" for more than one reason - tonal quality, playability, neck profile, cost, design, etc. I've owned around 20 and still have 6. I've set up another ~35 in the last six months and have even more to go through.

EF340SCNS. I bought this guitar with a broken-off headstock and some pieces missing. I glued the head back on and filled in the rest with epoxy. Spruce over Mahogany, so think D18 with more treble bite.



Back of the neck. You can also see the long slits I cut out with a razor saw to fill in with Super Glue where the neck was split but unable to glue properly.



ETN10C. This is my current favorite, Cedar over Mahogany. It's very warm and likes to be strummed. Darker flavor.



FP360SC. Spruce over Rosewood. Brighter than a D28, maybe not quite as bassy. Very articulate and loud.



SF95 Parlor, cedar over ovangkol. Sweet little guitar. This is the first guitar I performed a saw-off neck reset on and had very good results.



Ok, past this point they're all ones I've either sold or are working on.

N20, Cedar over Mahogany.



GZ300 Solid Body



NP17C, Cedar over Koa.



DMP751C. Domestic Japan model, not sold in the US. I bought this one with a broken truss rod and replaced it.



F366S Jumbo Guild copy. 1975. Spruce over Rosewood. I just did a neck reset on this one as well and am seriously thinking about keeping it. Pickguard was taken off for the repair. Quite boomy low with highs that are honestly a little too sharp with EXP17s. lol



I've been pretty heavily into Taks for the last few years, and there's any questions you have about them just ask - there's a good chance either I or someone I know can help you out!
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  #19  
Old 10-11-2019, 02:37 PM
Brucebubs Brucebubs is offline
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The original factory was based in the foothills of Mt Takamine in Japan and they took their name from the English spelling.

Over the years they have featured a drawing of a mountain on their interior labels - often mistaken for Mt Fuji - it's Mt Takamine.



The early guitars here in Australia misspelled the word 'conscience' on the labels (above left)- the letter 's' is missing. Corrected on later US export models.(above right)
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1972 - Takamine D-70
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  #20  
Old 11-24-2019, 08:42 PM
Aqagrl Aqagrl is offline
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Wow, what a beauty! What year?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricfreak View Post
In commemoration of my country's 50th birthday....
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  #21  
Old 11-24-2019, 09:54 PM
slopeshoulder slopeshoulder is offline
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Takamine TLD-M2. Recently acquired. One of 30 worldwide. I chose it for the chunky neck profile and nut width. I like the line driver preamp. I play singer songwriter stuff mostly along with some finger style blues.


https://ibb.co/RTdWCCt
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https://ibb.co/mFScSpR
https://ibb.co/qFRF3K4
https://ibb.co/mtjqTgV
https://ibb.co/t300gsd
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Last edited by slopeshoulder; 11-24-2019 at 09:59 PM.
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  #22  
Old 11-24-2019, 11:53 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brucebubs View Post
The original factory was based in the foothills of Mt Takamine in Japan and they took their name from the English spelling.

Over the years they have featured a drawing of a mountain on their interior labels - often mistaken for Mt Fuji - it's Mt Takamine.



The early guitars here in Australia misspelled the word 'conscience' on the labels (above left)- the letter 's' is missing. Corrected on later US export models.(above right)
Very interesting, Brucebubs. My old 1973 F-360 was made there. Sadly, it is no more.

With regards to the topic at hand:

- I came about it as a gift. It was 18 years old when I got it and it had suffered some heat stress in south Florida. I played it for another 30+ years before I noticed that there were just too many things wrong with it to put any more money into it.
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  #23  
Old 11-25-2019, 09:23 AM
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Ludere Ludere is offline
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my ‘95 G Series dread was my first “decent” guitar and it was a game changer for me ... made me realize the guitar could make a difference. Still with me today and probably always will be ... I do have designs on picking up a MIJ NEX Tak at some point ... maybe the P3, maybe one of the Legacy series ... but I definitely see one in my future ... just well thought-out and nicely built guitars ...




~ Paul
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Last edited by Ludere; 11-25-2019 at 10:18 AM.
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  #24  
Old 11-25-2019, 09:26 AM
thechoochlyman thechoochlyman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludere View Post
my ‘95 G Series dread was my first “decent” guitar and it was a game changer for me ... made me realize the guitar could make a difference. Still with me today and probably always will be ... I do have designs on picking up a MIJ NEX Tak at some point ... maybe the P3, maybe one of the Legacy series ... but I definitely see one in my future ... just well thought-out and nicely built guitars ...

~ Paul
I'm a big fan of the P3s. EAN10C, EN10, ETN10C, P3DC, etc. Any of those amazing Cedar over Mahogany models.
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  #25  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:10 AM
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SalFromChatham SalFromChatham is offline
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I have a P3NC - which I bought based on the testimonial from Noledog. I did put on a custom pickguard because of the cedar top, and I do gig with it. It's just easy.

It sounds fantastic, warm, with a little growl unplugged, and I get a real nice live sound as well through either a SA330 or a Bose L1.

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  #26  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:17 AM
thechoochlyman thechoochlyman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SalFromChatham View Post
I have a P3NC - which I bought based on the testimonial from Noledog. I did put on a custom pickguard because of the cedar top, and I do gig with it. It's just easy.

It sounds fantastic, warm, with a little growl unplugged, and I get a real nice live sound as well through either a SA330 or a Bose L1.

That pickguard shape looks great. I have another EAN10C coming in soon, I might try to do something similar.
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:25 AM
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SalFromChatham SalFromChatham is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thechoochlyman View Post
That pickguard shape looks great. I have another EAN10C coming in soon, I might try to do something similar.
I worked with Holter Pickguards on the shape... I sent him a rough outline, and he took over... shaping so that contours matched etc. I should get a good picture of it. It's beveled and gorgeous in my opinion.
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  #28  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:32 AM
Shredmaster007 Shredmaster007 is offline
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I picked up a P5DC a few weeks ago and think it's awesome! I wanted something that sounded great plugged in without a big fuss and it totally delivered. The P7D is still on my mind, maybe sometime in the future.



Here is a quick go with the P5 plugged straight into my Focusrite:


Last edited by Shredmaster007; 11-25-2019 at 10:43 AM.
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  #29  
Old 12-25-2019, 11:10 PM
Aqagrl Aqagrl is offline
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I have a 2008 TAN15c Supernatural series CTP-1. Cedar with rosewood. Hands down it's the most responsive instrument I've ever played. It's sweet. Warm, rich voice that is not too boomy, very balanced. Plugged in it sounds amazing, too. Fell in love the first time I played it. I wish cedar wasn't so fragile though.

Thinking about getting a TF77-PT cedar and koa mainly because I'd like a parlor size guitar. I judge everything by my TAN15c though, which makes it difficult for another instrument to compete. [emoji51] If I end up with one, it'll be my 3rd Takamine.[emoji173]

Any advice? I'd like to get a mahogany guitar.
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  #30  
Old 12-25-2019, 11:42 PM
Aqagrl Aqagrl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thechoochlyman View Post
Found this thread and figured I'd show off a few. Taks are definitely my favorite "store brand" for more than one reason - tonal quality, playability, neck profile, cost, design, etc. I've owned around 20 and still have 6. I've set up another ~35 in the last six months and have even more to go through.

EF340SCNS. I bought this guitar with a broken-off headstock and some pieces missing. I glued the head back on and filled in the rest with epoxy. Spruce over Mahogany, so think D18 with more treble bite.



Back of the neck. You can also see the long slits I cut out with a razor saw to fill in with Super Glue where the neck was split but unable to glue properly.



ETN10C. This is my current favorite, Cedar over Mahogany. It's very warm and likes to be strummed. Darker flavor.



FP360SC. Spruce over Rosewood. Brighter than a D28, maybe not quite as bassy. Very articulate and loud.



SF95 Parlor, cedar over ovangkol. Sweet little guitar. This is the first guitar I performed a saw-off neck reset on and had very good results.



Ok, past this point they're all ones I've either sold or are working on.

N20, Cedar over Mahogany.



GZ300 Solid Body



NP17C, Cedar over Koa.



DMP751C. Domestic Japan model, not sold in the US. I bought this one with a broken truss rod and replaced it.



F366S Jumbo Guild copy. 1975. Spruce over Rosewood. I just did a neck reset on this one as well and am seriously thinking about keeping it. Pickguard was taken off for the repair. Quite boomy low with highs that are honestly a little too sharp with EXP17s. lol



I've been pretty heavily into Taks for the last few years, and there's any questions you have about them just ask - there's a good chance either I or someone I know can help you out!
@thechoochlyman would you recommend a TF77-PT? I have a '91 LTD, and I want another/different parlor size guitar. What are the measurements of the TF77-PT? Thanks!!
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