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  #1  
Old 02-03-2019, 11:10 AM
Dave Abrahamson Dave Abrahamson is offline
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Default Idiot move of the day

In between coats of water based Colortone wipe on poly, I managed to drop a clamp right on the edge of a mahogany top. It hit on the worm gear, so it's a few serrated lines...maybe a 16th long.
Should I try and steam it out now? In between coats?.
It's my 1st attempt at building/assembling. It's a Stewmac baritone uke.
Thanks for any and all advice!

Dave
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  #2  
Old 02-03-2019, 07:33 PM
redir redir is offline
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Yeah try and steam it out. As they say S&#@ happens. Don't kill yourself over it.
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:15 PM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
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Default no time like the present

It will never be easier to remove the dent than right now, not to imply that it will be easy, but there's no other time that makes more sense.
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Old 02-04-2019, 05:21 AM
Dave Abrahamson Dave Abrahamson is offline
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Thanks guys, soldering iron and wet cloth it is...hope it works.
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Old 02-04-2019, 06:59 AM
difalkner difalkner is offline
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An iron and wet cloth may work better. Unless you have a really large tip for your soldering iron.

David
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:49 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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If it doesn't work, no better time to strip back, fix, and refinish than before the finish is finished, so to speak. I think using heat and humidity to fix a dent with fresh uncured finish on it is optimistic, but worth trying. If I was doing it, that would be plan A, quickly followed by Plan B... Speaking as one who has stripped back and started again more often than not, sadly...
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:03 PM
packocrayons packocrayons is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by difalkner View Post
An iron and wet cloth may work better. Unless you have a really large tip for your soldering iron.

David
+1, I managed to make things worse with a soldering iron, the tip set-screw touched the top and marred the finish in a second spot.

An iron is flat and predictable
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Old 02-04-2019, 05:25 PM
Dave Abrahamson Dave Abrahamson is offline
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I'm also an old RC Flyer...I still.have a small iron with a handle for shrink wrap covering airplanes. I'll use that first....if I do anything at all.
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2019, 07:33 PM
Quickstep192 Quickstep192 is offline
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I’ve done it once or twice by putting a drop or two or three of water on the “wound” such that it forms a bubble of sorts that’s above the surface of the wood. I then touched the very hot soldering iron tip so that it touched the bubble, but not the wood. When the sputtering and spattering was done, the dent was gone.
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  #10  
Old 02-05-2019, 06:29 AM
difalkner difalkner is offline
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I made a short video a couple of years ago showing how I steam dents out of wood, not that anyone here needs instructions...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZD2_Wrs6YDM

David
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  #11  
Old 02-05-2019, 12:03 PM
packocrayons packocrayons is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Abrahamson View Post
I'm also an old RC Flyer...I still.have a small iron with a handle for shrink wrap covering airplanes. I'll use that first....if I do anything at all.
Not to thread-jack but do you find the iron worth it? I need to reshrink some covering on a 2.5M glider that's becoming an autonomous first-person-view ship, hair dryer isn't hot enough.

A covering iron would be the best tool to pull dents, small enough, good temperature control and a good flat surface
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2019, 02:11 AM
nikpearson nikpearson is offline
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Default Iron + cotton cloth or kitchen roll

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Abrahamson View Post
In between coats of water based Colortone wipe on poly, I managed to drop a clamp right on the edge of a mahogany top. It hit on the worm gear, so it's a few serrated lines...maybe a 16th long.
Should I try and steam it out now? In between coats?.
It's my 1st attempt at building/assembling. It's a Stewmac baritone uke.
Thanks for any and all advice!

Dave
You can often completely remove dents using a wet cotton cloth or kitchen roll and a standard clothes iron set at the higher end of the heat range. If the wood fibres are broken (cut) then the dent will at best only partly come out. If the fibres are haven’t been broken even large dents can be steamed out. You’ll know almost immediately if this is going to work. Place the wet/damp cloth over the dent and apply the hot iron; the tip is usually the most useful in these circumstances. After a few seconds check the dent then reapply.

Steaming out dents can damage the finish, but is often less destructive than you might imagine. Best to do it now before you complete the finish, that way you can strip the existing finish back if needed.
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2019, 05:21 AM
Dave Abrahamson Dave Abrahamson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by packocrayons View Post
Not to thread-jack but do you find the iron worth it? I need to reshrink some covering on a 2.5M glider that's becoming an autonomous first-person-view ship, hair dryer isn't hot enough.

A covering iron would be the best tool to pull dents, small enough, good temperature control and a good flat surface
The iron will reshrink the monocote well enough. Or look into a heat gun instead of the hair dryer. Nozzle heat exceeds 400 degrees on most.
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  #14  
Old 02-06-2019, 06:09 PM
Dave Abrahamson Dave Abrahamson is offline
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Thank you so much for all the responses!
My hobby iron, a little water on the dent and a piece of damp t-shirt under the iron got it out in a few applications.
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  #15  
Old 02-06-2019, 08:03 PM
Quickstep192 Quickstep192 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Abrahamson View Post
Thank you so much for all the responses!
My hobby iron, a little water on the dent and a piece of damp t-shirt under the iron got it out in a few applications.
Good to hear!

Now you can change this from “idiot move of the day” to “on the fly repair lesson of the day” 😎
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