Custom Seagull bridge

[raysd]

I have a Seagull S6 Original that I really like - except for the string spacing at the saddle/bridge which is a narrow 2 1/8". I'm wondering about replacing the bridge with a custom bridge that would give me 2 1/4 or at least 2 3/16 string spacing.

I'm also wondering if instead of moving the pin holes, it would be possible to replace the original bridge with a pinless bridge.

Thanks in advance for comments/advice.

[printer2]

I don't see a reason why not.

[martingitdave]

I think the cost of the repair (done correctly) would likely well exceed the value of the instrument. It is possible to find another modestly priced guitar with the specs you prefer?

[raysd]

Originally Posted by martingitdave

I think the cost of the repair (done correctly) would likely well exceed the value of the instrument. It is possible to find another modestly priced guitar with the specs you prefer?

Well, therein lies the dilemma. I have small hands, so neck profile is really crucial for me, and, so far, the Seagull 1.8, "soft C" neck works best for me - but obviously I haven't been able to try everything else that might be out there. But besides that, I just really like what the S6 delivers.

So yeah, the cost is a consideration, and more than likely I'll just choose to work with the string spacing as is.

Anyway, thanks for responding

[phavriluk]

I suggest OP spends some quality time with a straightedge and a ruler and see where the E/e strings wind up with wider string spacing at the bridge. Maybe there's room, maybe not.

If this a 'keeper' for OP, and if there's enough room, then the next step is to consult a luthier who's being asked to replace the bridge and go from there. His guitar, his trip.

[raysd]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

I suggest OP spends some quality time with a straightedge and a ruler and see where the E/e strings wind up with wider string spacing at the bridge. Maybe there's room, maybe not.

If this a 'keeper' for OP, and if there's enough room, then the next step is to consult a luthier who's being asked to replace the bridge and go from there. His guitar, his trip.

Yes that's certainly a consideration. I think it would be okay, but that's something else a luthier could help me determine.

[John Arnold]

You can slot and ramp the bridge, and/or install a notched saddle. Doing both should at least get close to 2 1/4. Just be sure the neck is wide enough at the body.

[Birdbrain]

I have a Seagull with the bridge mounted a couple mm to the side of true. I wanted the strings to run square and even down the neck, so I had a shop make a bone bridge notched to draw the strings at an angle from the pegholes. It worked very well and cost less than $100.

[raysd]

Originally Posted by Birdbrain

I have a Seagull with the bridge mounted a couple mm to the side of true. I wanted the strings to run square and even down the neck, so I had a shop make a bone bridge notched to draw the strings at an angle from the pegholes. It worked very well and cost less than $100.

That's interesting. I've seen comments about this solution elsewhere; some people seem to think changing the angle between the pin and saddle is okay, some not. If for some reason it didn't work, I could just go back to the original saddle, so it would be worth a try. I've pretty much decided against replacing the bridge.

Thanks -

[raysd]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

You can slot and ramp the bridge, and/or install a notched saddle. Doing both should at least get close to 2 1/4. Just be sure the neck is wide enough at the body.

Yes, I think I'm going to try a notched saddle first. It would be the simplest and least costly solution to try first. Thanks