Changed strings on my J-45 and now whole low-E buzzes

[TBman]

I would get a sound hole humidifier and case the guitar with it for a few days before doing anything.

[Br1ck]

The only folks I know using tens are due to hand issues their aging bodies have developed. I'm happy pushing 70 and I can play thirteens on a well set up guitar.

If you don't have experience in this sort of thing, the only advise I have is pay someone who does. Otherwise a set of twelves and luck is in order.

[BluesBelly]

Originally Posted by jseth

First thing I thought of is that 10's are REALLY wimpy strings to have on that guitar! It was made to have 12's or 13's on it...

Without pictures I can't tell for sure, but, I'm fairly certain that a J-45 of that vintage would have the adjustable saddle arrangement that Gibson started using in the late 50's/early 60's? A common "fix" for that funky screwed down saddle was to remove it, fill the old slot and cut a new slot for the saddle. If someone did this to that guitar, they might not have done a great job with it...

If changing the string doesn't help (and even if it does), a trip to a good tech for a set-up and general "health" inspection is in order... and seriously, 10's???

Agree with jseth 100% on all counts.
Gibson’s have shipped (for the most part) with 12’s as long as I’ve been around And your average Gibson responds very nicely to them.
I also agree that the chances are fairly stout that that guitar came OEM with an adjustable bridge as was typical of that era Gibson.
And seriously, it’s a combination of glued up chunks of wood that have been in who knows what kind of climate conditions.
With all of this in mind I second the motion that you take it to a Good Set-up Tech and have the whole guitar checked and set up properly. It’s possible that there is even a loose brace.
For a couple of hundred Bucks you’ll have a great vintage guitar.

Blues

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by Wade Hampton

This sort of buzz can be really annoying to track down. What immediately comes to mind for me is that the low E string in the Martin set might have a heavier gauge core wire than the Earthwoods have. That could account for the buzz you're getting, if the Earthwood low E is generating lower tension.

The simplest way to check for that would be to try some slightly heavier low E strings, and using ever-heavier low E's until you find one that eliminates the buzz.

Give that a try and see whether it helps.


Wade Hampton Miller

That's kind of what I am leaning towards: The slot being ever so slightly larger than the string. I have a set of 11s coming, so I'll see what's up.

I need to replace the whole bridge, but I don't think that's the issue, and I can't afford it anyway.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by TennesseeWalker

Did you try removing that E string entirely and reseating it?
Sometimes the string ball end doesn't set properly below the bridge and next to the bridge pin and that can cause buzzing on any string.

Try replacing the previous string if you haven't tossed them yet and also make sure all of your string ball ends are seated snugly.

Yes, and with new pins.
Old string long gone.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by Haasome

Is it possible that the new low E is a slightly narrower gauge so that it sits lower in the nut groove?

I'm thinking it might be a wider slot and letting the string buzz side to side because if I pluck the string perpendicular to the guitar there's no buzz.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by Ben M.

A loose screw on a tuner can cause a pretty terrible buzz.
I'd make sure they're all snug but it sounds like you're talking about fret buzz which a loose screw wouldn't cause.

I'd try Wades advice and try a heavier E string.

If that doesn't work I'd try a lighter E string. A smaller diameter string is less likely to be hitting frets.

What do the string slots on the nut look like

Are there deep string grooves in the saddle

Everything is snug. I am going to try the thicker E but it seems tome that if I am fretting it that a wider slot would kind of be taken out of the equation, since it buzzes all the way up the neck, not just as an open string?

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by darylcrisp

all the other replies are exactly what I would do and see if anything changes. If you still have the old low E string, put it back in the bridge hole and lay it across the fretboard and pull snug-try to rotate it slightly and see if there are any flatspots, this will be a small flat area on the string and maybe hard to see. I have had it happen, with old strings on old guitars, a similar thing you describe. after going thru all the other steps, I noticed where a flat spot had been worn due to a high sitting fret every so slightly, it allowed that string to ring clear, but when a new string had been replaced and the diameter was new and round, that string contacted the high fret and created buzz. I found a few other high frets, some needed reseating, some needed leveling. after that was complete and a new nut, everything was fine.

there's so many things to check, these old guitars can have all kinds of secrets-lol. if all the above advice from everybody does not fix the glitch, reach inside, use a mirror, feel around, check braces, check tuner tightness, most definitely check fret level, nut slots, you need to give it the full monty.

good luck
d

I've run a fretrocker all over that fretboard and it's as perfect as anything I've seen. The nit looks great. The whole bridge needs replaced but that's not an option anytime soon, and the saddle worked fine for the old strings and for 5 of the new ones for sure.
There's no loose bracing.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by Ben M.

Also, I remember reading somewhere that when strings age they can oxidize (or something) and can gain more tension over time just sitting in the case.
If 8 years is long enough for this to happen the same gauge strings you put on could have less tension than the old ones which could affect the relief in the neck.

I've tried tightening and loosening the truss rod (have it set back to what it was now) with zero effect on the buzz, and none of the other string developed a buzz in either case.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by jseth

First thing I thought of is that 10's are REALLY wimpy strings to have on that guitar! It was made to have 12's or 13's on it...

Without pictures I can't tell for sure, but, I'm fairly certain that a J-45 of that vintage would have the adjustable saddle arrangement that Gibson started using in the late 50's/early 60's? A common "fix" for that funky screwed down saddle was to remove it, fill the old slot and cut a new slot for the saddle. If someone did this to that guitar, they might not have done a great job with it...

If changing the string doesn't help (and even if it does), a trip to a good tech for a set-up and general "health" inspection is in order... and seriously, 10's???

I'd imagine he had 10s on it because of arthritis. I don't mind them, as I run 10s on most of the guitars because of hand issues I have myself.

The bridge and saddle worked well for years, so as funky as it is it seemed to have worked great. It played and sounded excellent, 10s, saddle and all.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by rick-slo

How do you know Martin 10s were on it - some old string wrappers?

FWIW I would not put extra light strings (Martin 10s) on anything let alone a great big guitar like the J-45.

Lower tension strings would reduce neck relief and they would vibrate in a bigger arc for a given volume.

A drier humidity environment than where the guitar was kept before would drop the string height a bit.

Yup. He's one of those that save the old strings "just in case".

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by heavy_picker

1. Take a mirror and look inside to see if the strings are properly seated against
the bridge pins. If not you will get buzzing.

2. If you still have the old strings compare them next to the new strings to see
if they are the same gauge. If they are lighter gauge you will be putting less
tension on the neck and the neck will bow backwards causing buzzing.
3. Press the srings down at the first fret and the last fret (highest), then look to
see if there is a gap at the 5th to 7th fret. if there is no gap then the neck is
bowing backwards. The lighter strings you put on have less tension than
medium gauge and are causing the truss rod to pull the neck back, which
causes the back bowing.
4. All those years unattended the guitar may have dried out and either cracked
somewhere or a brace or braces came loose.
5. Light gauge strings can rattle in the nut slots if the slots are to wide for the
string gauge your presently using.
When the guitar was made it probably was set up for medium gauge strings.

I would take it to a good luthier who works on acoustic guitars and have him
check it for problems. He could probably tell you in less than 5 minutes what
is going on with the guitar and give you an estimate on what it would cost to
fix it. If something is wrong, having the guitar strung up could cause a great
deal more damage and tear the guitar apart.

Light gauge strings on a Gibson acoustic start with a .12 for the high E
string. A .10 gauge high E is what you put on a solid body electric guitar.

It sounds like you really need to have the bridge saddle replaced among
other things that could need repair.

Good Luck, it can be properly repair by the right repairman.

No bracing issues.
I KNOW they were the same gauge: 10s
It's NOT a relief issue, and I know how truss rods work.
Luthier is not a option anytime soon.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by UncleJesse

Believe it or not, there are a lot of people out there using .10s on dreadnoughts. I read about people in facebook guitar groups all the time using that gauge on Martin dreads or Gibson jumbos. I don't get it either. I think it usually has to do with poor setup and a guitar that badly needs a setup.

Some people have issues with their hands, like arthritis. Also, 10's let you do bends and such a lot easier, and not everyone thinks thicker strings make for a better sound.

[Shredmaster007]

I started to get some low e buzz playing on the 2nd and 3rd frets of my newish Takamine that had been setup with pretty low action (combination fret and saddle wear I guess?) Tried adding more relief to the neck but it needed more than I liked to stop the buzzing.

With covid I didn't feel like getting my guy to level the frets or fix up a new saddle at the moment.

So I changed from d'addario lights to curt mangan medium lights and it took care of the issue - the core wire is thicker / stiffer and the strings don't flop as much. Still pretty easy to play and the gauges are standard light sizes.

I've played earthwoods a few times and they are more floppy than d'addarios if I recall.

[TribalGuitars]

Originally Posted by TBman

I would get a sound hole humidifier and case the guitar with it for a few days before doing anything.

There's plenty of humidity w/o out the gadget. lol