#1
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Fret Tang Nippers
I'm in the market for a pair of these and looking for recommendations. I've done the last few bound fingerboards with the standard Stew Mac fret cutter and I'm looking to take some time out of the process.
There's these Sintoms ones: https://www.madinter.com/by-type-of-...ng-nipper.html And the Stew Mac ones: https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...ng_Nipper.html And these Summit ones, which look simpler: https://www.jescarguitar.com/shop/su...ble-universal/ Anyone have any of these, or others that they recommend (or not!) - much appreciated... |
#2
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I use an older version of the Stewmac nippers. They aren't adjustable, but do about 95% of the job. Depending upon how you hold the fret wire, a few strokes with a file on the undercut crown is necessary to get the surface completely flat. I've used them on EVO fret wire, but not tried them on stainless. Stewmac states they don't recommend them for stainless frets (i.e. they aren't hard enough.) It seems the newer versions are adjustable and allow different plates for different fret wire.
The Jescar nippers, which I haven't used, state they are hard enough for stainless steel frets (Rc 58). Part of your decision should be what fret materials you want to be able to work with. |
#3
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I have a pair of end nippers, that I ground the face to use for both fret-trimming and fret-pulling. I use the same tool for clipping the tangs off where I need to, then a couple quick swipes with a file on my home-made jig to finish it off.
The one I made is similar to the one Frank Ford designed; and I used to just use exclusively. But clipping the bulk off makes the filing go a lot faster. |
#4
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You also need to file the remaining barb from the snipped tang area for a cleaner fit over the binding or edge
Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#5
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These were taken about 8 years ago, when the internet was slower... so the pics were smaller!
Basically the two threaded couplers are used to hold the fret down, and the file (that does not have cutting edges) rides on the hardened surfaces of the bearings. I had later modified this with two bearings on each side to keep the file level easier. 021-Fret Tang Remover Jig by Louie Atienza, on Flickr Pic of the bottom, which shows a screw that adjusts the depth of the cut. The end of the screw has to be polished smooth to prevent it from marring the fret 022-Fret Tang Remover Jig 2 by Louie Atienza, on Flickr In action. 023-Fret Tang Remover Jig 3 by Louie Atienza, on Flickr |
#6
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Forgot to mention there's 2 adjustment screws. This is because I use coiled wire, which is coiled at a radius slightly smaller than the fretboard radius, and allows me to adjust the fret so that the end is parallel to the bearing tops.
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#7
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I made my own like the Stewmac ones. Just used a hacksaw blade on a pair of sheet metal nibblers. I also have the LMI Fret Tang filer and it's a little goofy.
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Bryan |
#8
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How goofy? I am curious about this as it looks pretty useful
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#9
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I have been using my LMI acquired tang nibbler for 20 years and see no reason to replace it.
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#10
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There is a tool called a 'sheet metal nibbler' and you can get one for like $20 bucks and make a very easy mod on it to use as a fret tang nibbler.
https://finish.air-compressor.org/c2...er-cutter.html |
#11
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I have the one from Jescar and it cuts very clean. No need to touch-up with a file.
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#12
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Quote:
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#13
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That's encouraging
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#14
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It's just slow and cumbersome to use. Had to return the little sled for the first one I got because the plates didn't line up, and the replacement isn't a lot better. I'm sure it could work well if you had a system to keep it efficient, but I've only tried it a few times.
__________________
Bryan |
#15
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I have the Summit nipper from Jescar and find it does a good job and seems to be withstanding stainless wire well. Before that I tried using the sheet metal nibbler but after trying it on stainless it was done. On the cheap,side I did a dozen or so guitars just using two grooved wooden blocks to hold the fret and a file to remove the tang, it worked fine bit was a little slow.
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