NMD

[Br1ck]

You bought the mandolin I'd recommend to someone with a lot of good instruments that wanted to buy a mandolin. Like want a good guitar? Buy a D 18. Mandolin? Buy an MT. Can't go wrong and if you decide you are a Gibson bluegrasser, you'll sell it in a heartbeat.

An MT can be a lifer for sure. It really is a slam dunk. I'd get tingles too.

You might try a Martin 00 12 fret if you can find one. My 00 15 custom 12 fret is very easy with no reach to the fretboard. Reasonable if you like the 15 sound.

[SheiLaLa]

Originally Posted by Br1ck

You bought the mandolin I'd recommend to someone with a lot of good instruments that wanted to buy a mandolin.

She is the only instrument I have ever owned that cost anything near that amount. She cost literally 10x more than any other instrument I own, except a resonator guitar-bodied octave mandolin that was made for me. And she was about 7 times more than that one . . . .

[Mandobart]

Originally Posted by SheiLaLa

She is the only instrument I have ever owned that cost anything near that amount. She cost literally 10x more than any other instrument I own, except a resonator guitar-bodied octave mandolin that was made for me. And she was about 7 times more than that one . . . .

I've posted this many times, but just like repetitive threads about picks, strings, humidification, pickups, amps....

A carved top, carved back archtop instrument is a lot more labor-intensive than building a flat top guitar. And there are about 1,000 to 10,000 guitar players for every mandolin picker (including the obvious overlap of multi-instrumentalists).

So to get the new mandolin equivalent of a new $500 guitar you're going to have to spend $1500 or more. When we get into octave mandolin or mandocello you're using more wood, more labor, and selling to an even smaller market (probably 1,000 mandolin players for every octave mandolin, mandola or mandocello).

[Br1ck]

I made an F 5. Before the process, I thought a $6500 mandolin was robbery, after the process, I wonder how anyone can earn a living.

It was a wonderful angst riddled process that cost me about $1200. Case, wood, hardware and finishing materials add up. And time, OMG, the time.
I ended up with a very good sounding mandolin I finished in very light amber so I could relive fixing screw ups.

So an A style for $1500 is a steal. Yes, I'd at least try a Kentucky 900 or up too.

[Br1ck]

I debated about another thread, but decided to continue this one because much of what has been said pertains to the discussion. That is about cost vs goals. By far, the most important thing to do is start with a mandolin that plays well. While I'd say if you stick with things, go out and buy a Collings MT, I realize most won't. I would expect and I would advise buying a Kentucky KM 150, or an Eastman 300 series or a the Loar, whichever is all solid wood, from a shop that does a setup on every mandolin they sell. Good as the factory Eastmans can be, it is just that the more budget an instrument is, the less time can be put into it, plus they get shipped across oceans. A shop like The Mandolin Store or Gryphon, both whom I've bought from, set up every instrument.

I'd dare say they spend more time on cheaper instruments due to need. There are many shops that do this. So getting one of these into your hands is a great way to start. If you do not intend to go any further, I'd advise you not to pick up an expensive mandolin.Those who have been through the process with guitar will not heed this advise. That's ok and more fun. I had access to Collings, and Northfield, Weber, Girouard and yes, Ellis.

I also visited The Mandolin Store. The next step is expensive. No way around it. Other than looks, I didn't find all that much difference playing up the import lines, until you get the the 900 up Kentucky master series. Those were nice. Listen for a richer G string. Once you hear it, well for me, there was no going back. This is where you need to have a think about what you want to achieve. The Kentucky 900 or 1000 is going to be about the same as a Silver Angel Econo A, a $1500 new instrument. Anything else for the most part is well into the upper $2000s these days. I can't remember the last used MT I saw under $2000. It's been $2500 lately. This is not a fancy mandolin. The wood will be beautiful, but add a grand for fancy. There are many worthy contenders and it's subjective. What is the difference between a plain Collings MT and an MT2? Precious little, but you will hear something and your eyes become an influencer.

Now we come to the Elephant in the room. The scroll. Take everything above and double it, at least. What do you get? One of the most aesthetically pleasing instruments on the planet. What else? Little to nothing. Those of us scroll diseased, well it is what it is. Never have so many paid so much, for so little. The labor to build these do justify the cost. Once again, it is what it is.

But the only massive sonic improvement is to get to the SilverAngel Econo A, or a Weber Galatin, really under $2000 used mandolins. Once again Ill use the D 18 analogy. Once above that, you get different flavors of Haagan Daz.

One final thought. There is the uber expensive class. I played an Ellis that was just a jewel. $9500 used. Exquisite. There are those that can pull tone out of them. I could just look at one. I've been close to some $2M violins. They are worth it just as objects. Crazy feeling.

[warfrat73]

Well, the Silverangel is on its way back to Kentucky for a couple of days so Ken can straighten out some issues with the frets. Between the first fret being high and the second fret being low, playing anything on the second fret was pretty futile.

Hopefully I'll have it back in a week or so.

[stevo58]

I just want to correct my earlier post regarding minor flaws - I just went over my Econo A again very carefully and can't find any flaws at all. I feel I did Ken a disservice there. And it still sounds fabulous. I think I let myself be talked into it when reading the original post.

[warfrat73]

I certainly don't want to be unfair either. But as I said, it's heading back to address some problems with the frets. And, while I know he is known for distressed finishes, mine was not sold as such. There are definitely a few little issues. I can live with them if the playability issue gets straightened out.

[warfrat73]

You can see some of the little finish issues in these pics...