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  #16  
Old 11-05-2015, 10:55 AM
Sperry Sperry is offline
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Originally Posted by murrmac123 View Post
Very true. I have yet to find a masking tape that resist the abrasion of a three-square file, even with the corners ground smooth.
My last L/C/P job was stainless frets, and I used quality blue painters mask. About $5 a roll.

In a couple places it ripped, and I replaced those pieces. But otherwise held up well.
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  #17  
Old 11-05-2015, 11:08 AM
JLS JLS is offline
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Originally Posted by murrmac123 View Post
Very true. I have yet to find a masking tape that resist the abrasion of a three-square file, even with the corners ground smooth.

Personally, I cut strips out of aluminum drink cans and tape these up against the fret. They are only .004" thick, but they ensure that the fretboard stays unmarked.
Powder coating tape: http://www.amazon.com/Green-Powder-C.../dp/B00DZXWTC6

I've gotten mine on ebay.
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  #18  
Old 11-05-2015, 11:57 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrmac123 View Post
Very true. I have yet to find a masking tape that resist the abrasion of a three-square file, even with the corners ground smooth.

Personally, I cut strips out of aluminum drink cans and tape these up against the fret. They are only .004" thick, but they ensure that the fretboard stays unmarked.
Neat idea with the aluminum can. I use 2 layers of tape - Green painters over black electrical.

To the OP: Plus, as with any tool... Technique!! Concentrating the force onto the fret rather than the fret-board helps avoid cutting through the tape.
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2015, 12:07 PM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Originally Posted by Purfle Haze View Post
Could you mention a couple? I see from the web site that it cuts in two directions, and has rave reviews. Would you recommend 150 or 300 grit?



I am not the most dexterous person I know, so I'm looking for a tool with skills to make up for my lack of same.

Thanks.
Triangle file - Most effort - most control and customization ability, potential for greater accuracy, requires most skilled technique

Pre-radiused concave diamond files are nice for a beginner because they can take out a lot of guesswork, can help develop a good technique ie: straight stroke holding the file consistently vertical. I find it easier to monitor my progress with the triangle file visually and by feel than with the concave file.

Pre-radiused concave files are similar to their diamond version alternates, but one must be mindful to avoid file "chatter" and take care with technique to do so.

The 1/4 concave file used flat on the fingerboard is not interesting to me. I expect some people like the file and use it as their main, but they'd be in the minority. I can see it as a possibility for quick touch ups.

The concave file with a bend in it is useful for fingerboard extension areas since the handle can be held normally and firmly. The straight concave files (diamond or mill) require a modified fingertip grip when working on the fingerboard extension (and MAKE SURE to protect the upper bout!!). But, as a first file, the bent concave file doesn't allow for as long a stroke as the straight concave files, and hence I don't think it will help aid in the development of a strong technique as much as the concave diamond file I have linked, since it requires that the wrist be bent more and the arm is further from the actual plane or direction of force of the stroke and target of this force.

Hope this helps.
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  #20  
Old 11-05-2015, 09:45 PM
Purfle Haze Purfle Haze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ned Milburn View Post
The concave file with a bend in it is useful for fingerboard extension areas since the handle can be held normally and firmly. The straight concave files (diamond or mill) require a modified fingertip grip when working on the fingerboard extension (and MAKE SURE to protect the upper bout!!). But, as a first file, the bent concave file doesn't allow for as long a stroke as the straight concave files, and hence I don't think it will help aid in the development of a strong technique as much as the concave diamond file I have linked, since it requires that the wrist be bent more and the arm is further from the actual plane or direction of force of the stroke and target of this force.

Hope this helps.
Very helpful, Ned. Thanks to all who have commented.
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  #21  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:19 AM
redir redir is offline
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What ever you do DON'T get this one:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...Fret_File.html

I have one and I won't even give it away no matter how hard you beg it would just be too cruel.
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  #22  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:23 AM
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I bought one of those cheap diamond-grit files and it was absolute junk. The diamond grit came off the adhesive and everything gummed up after one fret. Absolute crap that reminded me of typical counterfeit products.

I bought a form that I put sandpaper in and it has a nice round groove and it works great.
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  #23  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:38 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Originally Posted by redir View Post
What ever you do DON'T get this one:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...Fret_File.html

I have one and I won't even give it away no matter how hard you beg it would just be too cruel.
That fret file was designed by Michael Gurian back in the 1970's or so. I have one of the original ones. It works fine. I can't speak to the currently manufactured ones.

I prefer a straight concave file. (I find they cut much faster than diamond encrusted ones and last "forever". I find the fine diamond files cut too slowly: buy the coarser one.)

LMII sells these straight files, for example:

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  #24  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:43 AM
redir redir is offline
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Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
That fret file was designed by Michael Gurian back in the 1970's or so. I have one of the original ones. It works fine. I can't speak to the currently manufactured ones.

I prefer a straight concave file. (I find they cut much faster than diamond encrusted ones and last "forever". I find the fine diamond files cut too slowly: buy the coarser one.)

LMII sells these straight files, for example:

The design of the tool is great. It must be that the new files they make for it are just awful. I like the coarse diamond files myself.
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:46 AM
Purfle Haze Purfle Haze is offline
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Originally Posted by redir View Post
What ever you do DON'T get this one:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...Fret_File.html
I read the reviews on the file, and there are quite a lot of one-star reviews.
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  #26  
Old 11-06-2015, 09:59 AM
Purfle Haze Purfle Haze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
I prefer a straight concave file. (I find they cut much faster than diamond encrusted ones and last "forever". I find the fine diamond files cut too slowly: buy the coarser one.)

LMII sells these straight files, for example:

Charles, as a first-time fret filer, I might be better off with a file that cuts slowly!
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  #27  
Old 11-06-2015, 10:09 AM
Sperry Sperry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ned Milburn View Post

The concave file with a bend in it is useful for fingerboard extension areas since the handle can be held normally and firmly.
Exactly. I used a straight concave for most frets recently but had to approach the frets above 14 from both sides, and mostly used the three-sided file.

Then went over the frets with 220 , pressing down with the concave file.

A mandolin I was doing had a fret size bigger than small but at the far minimum for medium. And the idea came that I would prefer a piece of hardwood drilled and ripped, giving me a perfect concave to match the fret (plus the thickness of the paper).

Wanna do it slowly? Get the 300 grit diamond, and scratch cloth.

220 / 320 / 400 / 600 / 800 / 1000

And a set of "Micro-Mesh 1/2" x 5 3/4" Colored Sanding Sticks" from woodcraft.com, which will take you from 1500 to 12,000 grit.
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  #28  
Old 11-06-2015, 10:10 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purfle Haze View Post
I read the reviews on the file, and there are quite a lot of one-star reviews.
There are 7 one-star reviews and 25 5-star reviews. For whatever that's worth.
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  #29  
Old 11-06-2015, 10:15 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Originally Posted by Purfle Haze View Post
Charles, as a first-time fret filer, I might be better off with a file that cuts slowly!
Maybe, though it may be just a way to make the same mistakes slower and with more effort.

Fast or slow, you need to monitor progress. One of the more difficult parts of this stuff is identifying what needs to be done and to do exactly and only that. For example, identify that this portion of the fret is properly crowned and that portion of the same fret isn't yet, then file only the portion that is not yet sufficiently crowned.
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  #30  
Old 11-06-2015, 07:11 PM
Purfle Haze Purfle Haze is offline
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Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
Fast or slow, you need to monitor progress. One of the more difficult parts of this stuff is identifying what needs to be done and to do exactly and only that. For example, identify that this portion of the fret is properly crowned and that portion of the same fret isn't yet, then file only the portion that is not yet sufficiently crowned.
I understand. I have been studying up and learning what I can, but that is no substitute for experience. I plan to practice on a guitar-shaped object before I go after my own guitar.
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