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#1
12-30-2015, 10:16 AM
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Binding/Purfling glue question
I have been using Tite bond 2 for all of my binding glue ups. I have had good luck with it but sometimes when using multiple wood strip purflings along with wood bindings, it can be a handful getting glue on all the pieces and getting them in place to tape them. Not to mention the mess.
I have seen that some tape the bindings and purflings in place and glue with a thin CA glue after they are taped in place. I feel this would make it a lot easier to get good clean miters on the corners and be much less stressful when installing. Is there a down side to using CA glue for this? Is the CA glue bond as good or better than Tite Bond? I would appreciate any advice, Travis 
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#4
12-30-2015, 07:55 PM
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I tried pre glueing some thin wood strips to some maple binding prior to installing. The ca was a mess and a failure. Hard to keep the edges lined up and if I used accelerator I got "chunks" in places. Tried Duco on one, but it didn't bind completely. I used LMI wood glue and found the perfect solution for me. It is just tacky enough to stay while getting the edges matched up, easy to clean up. I clamped with clothes pins, alternating sides. At installation I again used the LMI glue. Perfect fit, time to tape, easy clean up. This is my first build and I am sure others have success with other methods, but this is how I'll do it from now on.
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BradHall _____________________
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#5
12-31-2015, 03:37 AM
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I have used CA many times. I always do a few coats of shellac around the edges of the top so the CA will not penetrate to the top. Later the CA can be scraped off.
On my last one here, I taped the binding, abalone and purfling all together at the same time. I wicked thin CA in between the tape gaps. Thin CA is able to seep down and bond everything. This takes practice and know just how much CA to use, if you do too much you could have it running down inside the guitar, which is not good. After it dried, I removed the tape and then wicked CA in the spots where the tape was. The darker outline around the top edge of the guitar is where I did a few coats of shellac. Any CA that had gotten on to the top was easily scraped off later with a blade. My top came out perfectly clean, and the binding, abalone and purfling all tight with no gaps.  
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2013 Jared Booth OM - eurospruce/mahogany 2014 Jared Booth 00 - europspruce/rosewood 2015 Jared Booth 00 - sitka/mahogany
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#7
01-01-2016, 08:58 AM
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I tried ca on several guitars and have gone back to titebond original. The trouble I had with ca was twofold first if the ca got on the tape holding the binding it was laborious to remove, the tape really toughens it up, the other and more significant problem is the visibility of the glue line in light woods (maple especially), even though the gap was super small the ca created a dark line at the bond. Obviously if you are always using dark purfling this doesn't show, but with light woods it was annoying especially where a maple end wedge mated with the maple binding.
Kent
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#9
01-01-2016, 09:27 PM
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I've heard good things about this binding glue from Luthiers Mercantile.
http://www.lmii.com/products/finishi...ding-adhesives
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#10
01-01-2016, 09:53 PM
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#11
01-01-2016, 11:11 PM
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As Charles has noted, there are diferent glues used when gluing different bindings.
For me, plastic bindings - I like lmi glues Shells - I like CA or epoxys Wood - I like titebond Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE
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#12
01-02-2016, 03:58 AM
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#13
01-02-2016, 09:12 AM
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