Is this method of neck reset physically possible?

[John Arnold]

The sides provide very little resistance to body distortion from string tension.
If you take a side assembly with no top and push on the neck block, you will see how little force it takes to move it. That is because the sides are perpendicular to the force, and can easily twist.
The main function of steam is to flatten the top belly, essentially steam bending it.
Long term, it may or may not be all that effective, because nothing is done to enhance the structure.

[Bruce Sexauer]

The shortest distance between 2 points is a straight line. If that straight line is bent, which is what happens when the guitar top is distorted into an "S" curve over time, the 2 points become closer together, and that is what causes the necessity of a neck re-set. It is not due to the neck block or the sides. A neck re-set adjusts the geometry and makes the guitar functional again, but does nothing to address the actual problem. This is equally true with all three methods I am aware of, of which the subject here is one.

While I may have failed to completely grasp the innovation being discussed in this thread, the idea of permanently weakening the structural integrity of a guitar for the possibility of short term gain goes against the grain for me: voids the warranty on my work, and then some.

[Robin, Wales]

I would have thought that after 100 years or so of steel strung flattop guitar building the design fault (because that's what it is) that leads to the top collapse and hence need to re-set the neck angle would have been solved, and now be standard practice. Instead, we seem to worship at the alter of 1930s guesswork!

OK, so that statement is a little harsh. But I look inside my cheap Art & Lutherie and think "That's been designed by an engineer and is going to stay put". I look inside my expensive D-18 and go "Where's the beef?".

This particular issue (collapse between the neck block and sound hole) really should have been designed out years ago.

[PineMarten]

Originally Posted by Robin, Wales

I would have thought that after 100 years or so of steel strung flattop guitar building the design fault (because that's what it is) that leads to the top collapse and hence need to re-set the neck angle would have been solved, and now be standard practice. Instead, we seem to worship at the alter of 1930s guesswork!

OK, so that statement is a little harsh. But I look inside my cheap Art & Lutherie and think "That's been designed by an engineer and is going to stay put". I look inside my expensive D-18 and go "Where's the beef?".

This particular issue (collapse between the neck block and sound hole) really should have been designed out years ago.

Modifying the neck block design to give some more rigidity in this area seems to be quite common now among newer makers who might be less bound by tradition. Yamaha have had C and L shaped blocks, and I notice my Eastman has a laminated block under the fingerboard that forms an inverted L with the neck block. But then players will notice that the the instruments weigh slightly more and form negative assumptions based on that, and many higher end buyers want things as vintage as possible.

[phavriluk]

Take a look at Trevor Gore's neck blocks, and Collings' and Dana Bourgeois'. You know, those unrepentant innovators who make such sonically inferior guitars....(no extra charge for the sarcasm).

[steam284np]

Kind of a new member here (long lost user name and pass) and came across this thread when watching the videos on Mr. Miners technique for resetting acoustic necks. I've been succesful at doing refrets but haven't tried neck resets. I have an acoustic i want to try this on because it needs it but i had a couple ? for anyone who has tried this. If you dont mind me asking:
1. Does this leave any humps at the shoulders of the board ext. after it dries?
2. What does the clamps purpose serve when it's clamped to the block and bar at the soundhole and do you need it there?
Thanks for help in advance!

[phavriluk]

Ain't but few shortcuts in this life, and I think this ain't one of them.

Much more information is needed before any responses will make any sense.

Please tell us what guitar is needing the neck reset, and why, and if possible post some pictures.

Good luck with this project.

[steam284np]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

Ain't but few shortcuts in this life, and I think this ain't one of them.

Much more information is needed before any responses will make any sense.

Please tell us what guitar is needing the neck reset, and why, and if possible post some pictures.

Good luck with this project.

Washburn d18. Would like to get the action lower but don't want to shave off the saddle anymore. I've already adjusted the neck to where I like it. I found it had a few high frets and filed and recrownded them. It's not in dire need of a reset at the moment but doesn't hurt to ask. Just thought I'd ask in advance and try to get some opinions from some who have used it. Thanks for the response though

[phavriluk]

I think (and the word is 'think') that necks get reset when saddles get too low and bridges can't get thinner, in the judgement of the player.

[steam284np]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

I think (and the word is 'think') that necks get reset when saddles get too low and bridges can't get thinner, in the judgement of the player.

Yeah lol. It's a throw away at that point. Shaving saddle and thin bridge makes a reset out of the question lol.

[kizz]

I tried this method on an old Yairi, let it sit in tension for a few weeks. It helped very little on this guitar, it gave the neck maybe 1-2 mm, which can be enough on some guitars, but maybe I didn't give it enough steam and let it dry in tension, I don't know, I guess I lost patience too, but it did no harm to the guitar. It lasted for the 3 months I had it until I sold it, so unfortunately I can't say whether it will last far into the future.

[steam284np]

Originally Posted by kizz

I tried this method on an old Yairi, let it sit in tension for a few weeks. It helped very little on this guitar, it gave the neck maybe 1-2 mm, which can be enough on some guitars, but maybe I didn't give it enough steam and let it dry in tension, I don't know, I guess I lost patience too, but it did no harm to the guitar. It lasted for the 3 months I had it until I sold it, so unfortunately I can't say whether it will last far into the future.

Thanks man. I think I will try this on a yamaha and let it dry out for couple weeks before doing the wasburn. 1 to 2mm would be just about what it needs

[mirwa]

The process is mute, as the guy is in Australia, I reached out to him a few years back for pure curiosity, his process is to leave the guitar clamped for upwards of a month after steaming the neck socket lightly. He saids he has guitars come back months later and are still perfect.

I genuinely do not believe him

A guitar needs a neck reset for just one reason, its been built light enough to give volume and sustain, but not quite strong enough to maintain string tension over the body, this is just one of those things that happen when pushing the boundaries of the wood during the build process

Clamping and lightly re-steaming a neck joint does not fix this long term, short term sure, then you can unscrupulously offload the guitar to an unsuspecting buyer

Steve

[kizz]

Originally Posted by mirwa

The process is mute, as the guy is in Australia, I reached out to him a few years back for pure curiosity, his process is to leave the guitar clamped for upwards of a month after steaming the neck socket lightly. He saids he has guitars come back months later and are still perfect.

I genuinely do not believe him

A guitar needs a neck reset for just one reason, its been built light enough to give volume and sustain, but not quite strong enough to maintain string tension over the body, this is just one of those things that happen when pushing the boundaries of the wood during the build process

Clamping and lightly re-steaming a neck joint does not fix this long term, short term sure, then you can unscrupulously offload the guitar to an unsuspecting buyer

Steve

That's quite a claim for someone who hasn't tried it out, how can you say with certainty that it doesn't work in the long term, but only in the short term?

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by kizz

That's quite a claim for someone who hasn't tried it out, how can you say with certainty that it doesn't work in the long term, but only in the short term?

Common sense and I repair guitars for a living

The clamping and steaming does not address the core issue