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Pedalboard Newbie Questions
I do acoustic guitar and vocals, mostly sitting. I am delving into the world
of pedalboards. Is it worth it to mount a Ditto X2 and a Harmony Singer 2 on a board? I may add a Red-eye Twin. Obviously something small or very small would do. I have seen the Gator Bone Mini 12" (no holes), Pedaltrain Nano and Nano Plus, On-stage GPB2000, Rockboard. All my pedals will run off a 1-spot. Are there any words of wisdom for a newbie to this? Do folks prefer angled models vs flat? Thanks for your advice. Michael |
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Looking forward to hearing some opinions. Cheers.
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1997 Epiphone Les Paul (P 90's) 2009 Fender Tim Armstrong Hellcat acoustic 2011 Fender MIM Sunburst Tele 2012 Voyage Air VAOM-04 2012 Eastman E20D Sunburst 2013 Simon & Patrick Songsmith Sunburst 2018 PRS SE Custom 24 Tobacco Sunburst (all lefties ) https://www.facebook.com/KTCalcuttMusic |
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My preference is an angled board with Velcro. You can move your pedals around to find the best placement. The 1 Spot is a budget PS and I’d never use one as it can introduce static in your signal. You should use a PS that has isolated power outlets to each pedal. The Donner DB3 is a good board that offers the ability to mount your PS and wiring on the underside.
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Taylor V-Class 814ce, 717e BE WHB, 520ce, 454ce, 420 Cedar\Maple, T5z Classic Martin D18E Retro Cordoba C10 Crossover Emerald X20 Rainsong H-OM1000N2 Voyage-Air VAD-04 Custom Les Paul Hot Rod Deville 410, Fishman Loudbox Performer |
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This one a them... depends what ya wants is tryin' ta do.. things.
My pedalboard.. Pedaltrain Jnr... HSinger (v1) 12v... Comp, delay, chorus, 9v... Ditto 2... 9v... PZ deluxe 15v... Polytune 9v from the PZ. .. out to PA. The major things to work on are... levels from each to the next and then from the PZ out. Gain staging is a thing. Then your actual effects levels, different from previous.. less is mostly more here. As for power.. you can run all but one of these from a Onespot, though I do wonder how long that 12v would be a good idea. thus I got a Cioks DC 10 to run all mine. Looked at putting it underneath.. but ultimately for ease and visual/access put it up top. This is a great rock solid board that was worked without fault for a couple of years now. Not light or the most compact, but... Like I said.. it depends. Kris
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Keep it Simple |
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Here's my rig: LR Baggs Para DI, tuner, delay, chorus, reverb, looper. Only bad thing for my rig is the first pedal runs off 9v battery. All others off 1-spot. Relatively "quiet" as far as noise. Advice: run the looper at the end of the chain, tone shapers near the beginning of the chain.
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As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too. |
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I'd go with isolated power.
I'm using a Strymon Zuma R300 to power a Tonedexter > Sunnaudio Stage DI > Line 6 HX Stomp > Boomerang III Phrase Sampler > Aphex Acoustic Xciter (only as a DI) > Mixer. I have power strips in the upper corners to power everything else off of. Makes for a quick setup.
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Current: 1952 Gibson J-45 - Schatten HFN passive / Fishman Matrix Infinity 1983 Washburn Timber Ridge Custom - Fishman Onboard Prefix Premium Blend & - Schatten HFN passive 2016 Gibson J-45 Standard - Fishman Onboard Prefix Premium Blend & - Schatten HFN passive backup Tonedexter & Sunnaudio Stage DI 1990 Yamaha FS-310 Past: 1995 Martin D-28 2015 Eastman E10SS |
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Thanks to all. I had to do some research on the various components
mentioned. It seems the power supply is a key ingredient. Do you really think I would have noise issues with 2 pedals on a daisy chain to a 1-spot plugged into the wall? II do not have issues when I set it up without the pedalboard. I can see the point of isolated power on bigger boards. Would the Cioks Adam ($109) be an alternative to the DC-10? vs a $200 Strymon? Are there alternatives in the 12" - 14" range to the Gator Mini-Bone (12"0 and PedalTrain Nano 14" wide. It seems there are many choices once you get to 18". I prefer an 'angled' board. yamahaguy, as I understand, you simply daisy chained your pedals and plug the 1-spot into the wall....nothing fancy?....seems like all I need. Thanks to all. |
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My pedalboard (now dismantled) had a PZ Pre, an old distortion pedal, tubescreamer clone, chorus and delay into a Ditto X2 with all the pedals except the PZ powered by a 1-spot (the PZ uses 18 volt, not 12). I have a Korg tuner plugged into the PZ's tuner jack (so its not in the signal chain), and powering that with the 1-spot created a hum, so I left it on battery.
I can understand wanting a sloped board for sitting use. You do get used to non-sloped ones for standing, specially when you have multiple rows of pedals. I had mine mounted in an aluminum case with removable lid.
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Mike My music: https://mikebirchmusic.bandcamp.com 2020 Taylor 324ceBE 2017 Taylor 114ce-N 2012 Taylor 310ce 2011 Fender CD140SCE Ibanez 12 string a/e 73(?) Epiphone 6830E 6 string 72 Fender Telecaster Epiphone Dot Studio Epiphone LP Jr Chinese Strat clone Kala baritone ukulele Seagull 'Merlin' Washburn Mandolin Luna 'tatoo' a/e ukulele antique banjolin Squire J bass |
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I also have a very expensive isolated power brick device for my electric pedal board and I get some "noise" with it if my board is plugged into a different outlet than the pa or amp. So then you have to buy a noise gate pedal -- which I have -- but they clamp down your overall volume when armed to be effective on high noise levels. Good luck with your build. One final thought, some pedals require 12v or 18v, or AC power. That is why I got the brick device for my electric board.
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As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too. |
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Current: 1952 Gibson J-45 - Schatten HFN passive / Fishman Matrix Infinity 1983 Washburn Timber Ridge Custom - Fishman Onboard Prefix Premium Blend & - Schatten HFN passive 2016 Gibson J-45 Standard - Fishman Onboard Prefix Premium Blend & - Schatten HFN passive backup Tonedexter & Sunnaudio Stage DI 1990 Yamaha FS-310 Past: 1995 Martin D-28 2015 Eastman E10SS |
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I got the noisegate as a failsafe -- an absolute last resort in the rare event I do get noise. I wouldn't intentionally create a problem, but some venues I play have their FOH amps plugged in elsewhere (my board has a tube pre- so I often run direct into a DI then PA), and they use stage lights which make lots of "noise."
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As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too. Last edited by YamahaGuy; 06-18-2019 at 11:39 AM. |
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Since I am spending your money? Gator small aluminum board. Angled, sturdy, space underneath for power supply and power cable routing. And it comes with a usable bag. Bigger yes but you have to allow room for jacks and invariably a pedal or two pops up that you want to add.
If all your pedals run at 9v, a one spot type supply has plenty of supply current capability to power even pretty heavy loads. Some pedals (digital pedals and internal charge pump pedals) do not like to share power sources which is why isolated becomes important. If you are successfully powering your setup with a one spot, a pedal board will not change that. Just be aware that you can get interactions that create noise like digital clock static and high pitched whines from charge pumps and if you add or swap a pedal you may run into problems. Back when I ran a daisy chain, I added a compressor to the power chain and the noise went through the roof. Had to run it off batteries until I got an isolated supply. I like Cioks and have gotten good results with a DC5 and of late a DC7. Not cheap though. I ran Fuel Tank Juniors for a long time until my voltage and current draw needs out paced its capabilities. Not sure you can even buy em any more. You do need to read Cioks specs carefully since not all outputs on all supplies are isolated. hunter |
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I had a 60 cycle hum that was driving me crazy last year after I added a pedal. It wasn't the pedal, it was the lack of isolated power. An isolated power supply isn't as much fun as a new pedal, but it alleviated the problem immediately. To the OP: You can make a board out of a lot of things, but I like the pedal train stuff. I decided to get their aftermarket black road cases because the consumer grade hard and soft cases won't stand up to my schedule. They're light, sturdy, and well thought out. Cable management is easy and many power supplies fit underneath.
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Current: 1952 Gibson J-45 - Schatten HFN passive / Fishman Matrix Infinity 1983 Washburn Timber Ridge Custom - Fishman Onboard Prefix Premium Blend & - Schatten HFN passive 2016 Gibson J-45 Standard - Fishman Onboard Prefix Premium Blend & - Schatten HFN passive backup Tonedexter & Sunnaudio Stage DI 1990 Yamaha FS-310 Past: 1995 Martin D-28 2015 Eastman E10SS |
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I have been doing my homework and pondering options. The
small Aluminum Gator Board seems to be the front-runner. I think the 15.5" size will be perfect for a Harmony Singer 2 a Ditto X2, and a TC Spark mini. And I like the fact that it is angled. With agf's help, I am over my confusion of the installation logistics, and now just need to decide what to put on it. I also am looking at the Rockboard 2.0 ( an older 12 5/8" model) and just mounting the X2 and HS2. I am in 'hold' mode now looking for a small preamp/DI with Boost, phase, and gain to replace the Spark. Meanwhile, I bought some cables to clean up the routing on the floor, as well as, work with a pedalboard. Thanks to all for your input.
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