12-string players -- do you down tune, and should I?

[MRich]

Ok, I have an inexpensive (I paid $99 plus shipping for it) Harley Benton 12-string. I bought it mainly because I just wanted one, and for one of the projects I'm working on I think it would be a good fit.

I recently put some Martin Monel strings on it, and tuned it to standard tuning.

Now, I've heard that "modern" 12-strings are built so that they can handle the tension of standard tuning, and the main problem with standard tuning is breaking the "octave" G if you use the wrong/wrong gauge strings.

I've heard many people say that if you have a 12-string, you should down tune by at least a half step (i.e. the E is tuned to E flat, etc.) and just capo on the 1st fret for "standard" tuning. I've even heard some people say to tune down a full step, and capo on 2.

Right now, I've got it in standard tuning.

What's your preference?

[Merak]

I like to tune down because it makes fretting easier.

[Steve DeRosa]

No, and no...

[mcduffnw]

I have always tuned my 12 strings down a full step, to D, and then capo up two frets to get back to E.

It is just easier on the neck and top. Through my 50 years of playing guitar, I have seen so many 12 strings, both low cost, and very top of the line, with neck, and top and thus action issues that were caused by having the guitar tuned up to standard E pitch tuning. I own a 1969 Guild F-512 Custom 12 string, which has double truss rods in the neck, and the small owners manual it came with instructed the owner of the guitar to tune the guitar down one full step. Did I mention double truss rods in the neck?!

Sure, you might get lucky and have your 12 string be able to handle it, by why risk it? It is sooooo easy to just capo up two, and make life easier for you guitar.


duff
Be A Player...Not A Polisher

[FingahPickah]

If your intention is to play mostly at concert pitch, you're better off with a guitar that will handle it. A $99.00 12 string might not handle standard tuning. You might try extra light strings (i.e., D'Addario EJ41).

My Guild JF65-12 has been tuned to pitch (A-440hz) with light (.010/.010 - .047/.027) gauge strings since 1987.

Regarding your comment about breaking the octave G ...

Martin sets https://www.musiciansfriend.com/acce...0%7C%20%249.99

use a .010 which in my experience is too heavy and does break at concert pitch. I have not had issues with a .009 or .008.

[MRich]

Originally Posted by mcduffnw

I have always tuned my 12 strings down a full step, to D, and then capo up two frets to get back to E.

It is just easier on the neck and top. Through my 50 years of playing guitar, I have seen so many 12 strings, both low cost, and very top of the line, with neck, and top and thus action issues that were caused by having the guitar tuned up to standard E pitch tuning. I own a 1969 Guild F-512 Custom 12 string, which has double truss rods in the neck, and the small owners manual it came with instructed the owner of the guitar to tune the guitar down one full step. Did I mention double truss rods in the neck?!

Sure, you might get lucky and have your 12 string be able to handle it, by why risk it? It is sooooo easy to just capo up two, and make life easier for you guitar.

duff
Be A Player...Not A Polisher

I might have to do that, then. As I said, it was a $99 Harley Benton. And I noticed when I was changing strings that the bridge saddle was loose. I wonder if that has something to do with it.

[rmp]

nope..

standard tuning,

[rick_f]

Usually use standard tuning, but lately been. Tuning down a step. Easier fretting and I like the "ring".
I have a Martin DX12 with retros

[RP]

I've always tuned my 12-string guitars to standard tuning, but (at the risk of sounding like but not intending to be a snob) yours might not be built to handle that...

[FrankHudson]

The OP asks two questions. Even the "easy" one, the one that asks what I do isn't straightforward for me.

I still own my first 12-string, a 1970's "Cortez" all laminated cheapy that might be similar to the one the OP just bought. I strung it with the lightest 12-string sets I could find and tuned it E to E for much of its early life. Over the years some bellying, but it's still playable and hasn't exploded. Still that's no guarantee. With an inexpensive guitar you might view it as expendable.

I've tuned my Guild jumbo all kinds of ways, from E to E to a dropped CGDGBE tuning and it's currently a full step down (D to D). I'll use other alt tunings too, usually with lowered strings.

My Seagull is currently a half-step down (Eb to Eb).

The Cortez uses Steve Tibbetts' stringing with the D and G courses unison not octave. I keep it tuned down a full step as this stringing increases the tension.

Besides fear about the guitar holding up, and making it easier of play, there's a lot of different timbres possible with the 12-string acoustic guitar. Tunings are one way to explore that. Lower tunings have a different sound played open, which suits some styles and voices. Think Leo Kottke or Lead Belly. If one goes lower tuning as their regular choice, you may want to change to a heavier gauge string set than the usual 12-string sets, but you can experiment with a common 12-string set, which I urge you to do.

If you play with others, the different chord voicing from a down-tuned 12-string can add a nice effect to two guitar arrangements. E. G., you play in "E" shapes while downtuned a full step while the other guitar plays in concert D.

I sometimes capo up high on my 12-strings, to fake mandolin/mandocello or harpsicord like sounds. Yet another sound.

So, the second question, what should the OP do? Try different approaches, and see what works for them. The only objective question here is "will his guitar be damaged by higher string tension. Constant tuning changes are said to wear out strings faster, but again, like the risk to a $99 guitar, it's a cost I'd bear for musical reasons.

Enjoy your new 12-string!

[Lillis]

I have a new Taylor 362ce which is short scale so I have it in standard tuning. I need to experiment with other tunings though. I love having a 12 string.

[6L6]

I use light gauge Phosphor Bronze strings on my 1971 Guild F-312NT.

It has always been kept at full concert pitch between (rare) string changes and yet it still plays effortlessly and in tune up and down the neck. It has never had a neck reset nor has it ever needed one.

Can't match or beat a good USA-built Guild for 12 string guitars. My '71 F-312NT:

[High_Colorado]

Originally Posted by Steve DeRosa

No, and no...

This was certainly me: 38 yr, Life long handmade 12 string, tuned all that time to full concert pitch (A/440) with medium gauge strings; I even had a bit of an argument with a music store owner in Colorado Springs nearly 20 years ago about using that gauge on a 12 string, he even insisted they were not produced any longer! (Pre-Amazon days) Anyhow, many decades of non-humidified Rocky Mountain dryness and the bridge finally decided to lift last fall (2022)! Met a long time local luthier, who got her taken care of and now she is back home! (dovetail neck remains straight & true) BUT, as a nod to her age, I now "split the baby" and tune at A=432, down a bit from concert pitch.

[Eldergreene]

I always preferred the mellower tuned-down sound of eg Blind Willie McTell to the more jangly sound of E- or D-tuned 12s - for that reason, I'd usually tune no higher than C or C-sharp, which also sounds really good with a slide ( when open-tuned down to eg B-flat ); in addition, I'd often go with paired 3rd strings rather than an octave 3rd, but it's whatever your ears prefer.

[rstaight]

I tune my Takamine GJ72CE 12 string to standard. When installing new strings I do the standard string first with the G being last. Then I do the octave strings. Again, with G string being last.

I do this until they settle in. Once settled in the guitar holds tune rather nicely. So, it's just some minor tweaks.

But the G strings are last. On any guitar the G is last.