#1
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if money were not an issue, which tonewoods would you recommend for...
...a fingerstyle player, no pick, soft touch, who wants a lush resonant sound with ample overtones, but not to the extent of overtaking fundamentals, with good bass and midrange presence, on a generally responsive instrument?
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#2
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More so than a specific tonewood, I'd be inclined to recommend specific luthiers known for getting that sound consistently in their work.
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#3
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For my ear, probably a stiffer redwood or softer engelmann top and Flamed Mahogany back and sides (aesthetics only - you said price was not a problem)
And as Brian said - the right builder!
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"One small heart, and a great big soul that's driving" |
#4
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This would be my recommendation…
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A bunch of nice archtops, flattops, a gypsy & nylon strings… |
#5
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The Tree paired with LS Redwood.
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#6
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I think this is a visually stunning combination.
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#7
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I have had the same woods on different guitars and they sounded very different! So I agree with the posters that say it’s a luthier choice first and then a discussion about what you want, so the luthier can select and voice the top accordingly and add to the package with their choice of tonewood.
When you mention ample overtones Goodall immediately comes to mind and of the several I have owned (to play fingerstyle) the amount of overtones was greater than other guitars I own and also varied considerably across the three Goodalls. So I guess if money were not an issue, that would impact on my choice of luthier, not wood! |
#8
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Redwood (or perhaps Cedar) over Walnut - and the right Luthier of course…
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#9
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id start with the soundboard and decide what you prefer- spruce or redwood/cedar. That is the biggest choice. The back and sides will be more aesthetic and a function of the body shape.
being on a classical kick I am liking spruce over cypress/maple/pear/etc.
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Sakazo Nakade Flamenco 1964 Bourgeois D Adi Tasmanian Blackwood 2011 Tom Anderson Strat 1990s Schecter California Classic Strat 1990s |
#10
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I’d go find an Olson.
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#11
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Quote:
Often, a builder will have, for example, a really exceptional set of Carpathian spruce (where I might generally prefer Adirondack) and I would just defer to their judgement. Or they might say they have some exceptional EIR that they like more than Brazilian . . . or they have a set of koa or Australian blackwood they like. I would let the builder kind of steer you. I like all kinds of woods. I tend toward red spruce for the top but love most of the spruces. For back and sides, I've played exceptional guitars made from just about everything.
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Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#12
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I would go with 30+ year old red spruce and Brazilian rosewood from TJ Thompson’s stash and, more importantly, have TJ Thompson build it, or have Ervin Somogyi build a guitar out of whatever wood he has laying around.
I would rather have a master builder build a guitar out of mediocre wood than a lesser skilled builder build a guitar out of the rarest wood. Rather than picking tonewoods in the abstract, I would focus on finding a builder that builds the type of guitar you are looking for, and then working with that builder to select the most appropriate woods to achieve your desired result. A guitar made with The Tree and LS redwood made by Tim McKnight would be a great choice, btw! |
#13
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If staying married was not an issue, I’d take an Arum with The Tree and LS Redwood.
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“You got time to breathe, you got time for music” ~ Briscoe Darling __________________ |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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Thanks Sinistral. That was very kind of you.
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