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  #166  
Old 11-01-2013, 12:30 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Thanks, Nemoman!
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  #167  
Old 11-03-2013, 12:38 AM
Solariego Solariego is offline
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Looking good Todd!

Seems like you could adjust the heel a bit closer to the body though and still have it adjusted correctly? Can't tell how big that gap is!

Thoughts?
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  #168  
Old 11-03-2013, 01:33 AM
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Super cool. Thanks for the photos. Looks like it's going to sound BIG!
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  #169  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:58 AM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solariego View Post
Looking good Todd!

Seems like you could adjust the heel a bit closer to the body though and still have it adjusted correctly? Can't tell how big that gap is!

Thoughts?
Yes, I do intend to make that gap a bit smaller. The bridge (only taped on in these photos) can shift down a bit, accordingly.
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  #170  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewpartrick View Post
Super cool. Thanks for the photos. Looks like it's going to sound BIG!
Thanks, Matthew!
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  #171  
Old 12-07-2013, 11:42 AM
Solariego Solariego is offline
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Todd, something I've been meaning to ask you. It looks like your relocated soundhole is a little smaller than usual (maybe 3" in diameter?). How, if at all, do you think that affects volume compared to the typical 4" diameter (~12 sq inches)?

Is it necessary to have as much of opening as is traditional?

Thanks.
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  #172  
Old 12-07-2013, 12:34 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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The smaller hole and the location further from the center of the box would both lower the pitch of the air resonance. However, these effects are offset (essentially cancelled out, more or less) by the side soundhole.

These statements certainly comprise some oversimplification, but a more exacting analysis than that would be a hopeless exercise in baffling complexity.
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  #173  
Old 03-14-2014, 05:03 AM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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This project has been back-burnered for a while, but I'm back at it now. The customer wants an arm rest, so here it is being made. (Everything you see here, except the router, is taped down to the table with double-sided tape.)



The underside needed to be excavated so that only the edge contacts the edge of the guitar.



A little sanding after routing.



After a lot of hand work -- carving, sanding, and polishing -- here it is completed.



The arm rest will add to the comfort of playing and keep the player's arm off the top, allowing the top to vibrate more freely (how much difference this actually makes for the sound is debatable, but it sure can't hurt) -- without reducing the size of the top, as a beveled-type armrest would.



I think it dresses up the guitar nicely. The ebony will be reflected by the ebony fretboard. Also, the curves at the ends are the same radius as the curve at the end of the FB where it's cut out for the sound hole.

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  #174  
Old 03-14-2014, 05:14 AM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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On to fretting...

Here I'm nipping the fret tangs with the fret tang nipper...



...so that the fret ends go over the fretboard binding, while the tang seats in the slot.



All 22 frets cut to length and tangs nipped.



The nipper doesn't cut the tang quite flush with the underside of the fret crown, so a little filing is necessary.



This one is filed flush. Now to do that 43 more times!



Pressing the frets in on the drill press.



After carefully checking to be sure all frets are seated properly, the tops are marked with a sharpie...



...then leveled with a dead-flat sanding block.



Since the fretboard was already carefully leveled and the frets carefully pressed in, the frets only needed a tiny bit of leveling, as evidenced by just a little of the red marker removed down the center of each fret crown. They probably didn't really even need leveling at all, but this assures me that they're perfect.

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  #175  
Old 03-14-2014, 05:15 AM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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And now the fret ends are trimmed off, then filed.





Here I've just finished wicking CA glue under all the frets. This is insurance against frets coming loose. (Some believe it also improves tone by filling the remaining space in the fret slot, thereby making a more solid fretboard. A plausible theory.)



After quite a bit more painstaking work, the frets are all dressed and polished.



Next, some final sanding on the neck, and then on to pore filling!
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  #176  
Old 03-14-2014, 06:01 AM
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Beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
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  #177  
Old 03-14-2014, 02:47 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Thanks, Matthew!
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  #178  
Old 03-25-2014, 11:29 AM
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With an application of pore filler to the back, the beautiful color of the rosewood begins to reveal itself.



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  #179  
Old 05-13-2014, 12:20 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Every guitar maker, it seems, will tell you that the finishing process is the most fraught with challenges and problems. On this guitar, I'm doing a finish that's new to me (a brushed-on high gloss varnish). Already, I've faced challenges and had problems to solve in the pore filling process (but I've learned a lot, and solved all the problems... so far). Finally, I've gotten to this point: the pores are filled and the first coat of varnish (just a thin seal coat) is on.





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  #180  
Old 06-04-2014, 07:03 PM
Solariego Solariego is offline
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That finish looks good Todd (as all your stuff does).

Is it a ready made product or did you mix it yourself? Do you have to sand in between coats?

Also, when you CA those frets, what about fret replacement? Acetone?
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