Creating A Saddle Taper

[dropt]

I recently purchased a Cordoba GK Studio Flamenco guitar that as a flat, non-radiused fingerboard. The bridge saddle has mostly uniform height from E6th to E1st.

I sanded the bottom of the saddle and the 12th fret action is almost where I want it at 3mm. However, I'm contemplating taking the action down another 0.25 to 0.5mm on the E1st side which would require a tapered saddle.

What is the best way to accomplish this saddle taper. Should I sand the bottom or sand the top of the saddle to create a tapered profile?

Or should I just I just take the action down another 0.25mm sanding the bottom (effecting both E6th and E1st) and not worry about the taper.

[nikpearson]

It can be done by hand, but keeping everything square can be challenging. I have a little sled device which allows one end of the saddle to be lower than the other, but these are quite expensive for a one off job.

The easiest way to lower the 1st string action is to remove the necessary material from the top of the saddle. You can do this with a combination of files and/or abrasive paper. Just make sure you round the upper surface and keep the string contact point in the same place if the instrument’s intonation is spot on. If you don’t have one already, a small file set can be picked up inexpensively and has many other uses. My preference is for diamond coated one as the cut quickly and leave a better surface finish requiring less polishing with abrasives.

[dropt]

Originally Posted by nikpearson

It can be done by hand, but keeping everything square can be challenging. I have a little sled device which allows one end of the saddle to be lower than the other, but these are quite expensive for a one off job.

The easiest way to lower the 1st string action is to remove the necessary material from the top of the saddle. You can do this with a combination of files and/or abrasive paper. Just make sure you round the upper surface and keep the string contact point in the same place if the instrument’s intonation is spot on. If you don’t have one already, a small file set can be picked up inexpensively and has many other uses. My preference is for diamond coated one as the cut quickly and leave a better surface finish requiring less polishing with abrasives.

The sled device looks great but for a one-time job probably not worth it for me (even the cheaper import models).

I think I'll take a little more off the saddle bottom. E6th action = 2.6mm to 2.8mm is not uncommon for flamenco players. And my Godin Multiac SA Nylon also has uniform action from E6th to E1st due to the arrangement of the non-adjustable hex pickup saddles.

If that still doesn't feel right I'll carefully taper the top of the saddle as you suggested. Thanks for you help.

[RonMay]

Get a sheet metal clamp at Home Depot. It's like vice grips but has a wide flat jaw that you can set at any angle.
Just mark off the angle from one side to the other and put the sheet metal clamp parallel on that line.
Sand down until you get to the jaws, you're done.

Ron

[nikpearson]

Originally Posted by RonMay

Get a sheet metal clamp at Home Depot. It's like vice grips but has a wide flat jaw that you can set at any angle.
Just mark off the angle from one side to the other and put the sheet metal clamp parallel on that line.
Sand down until you get to the jaws, you're done.

Ron

And can see how it could be used for this purpose. I wonder how accurately the flat sections line up as that would be critical to keep the bottom of the saddle square. Still think working on the top of the saddle is the better option in this case.

[redir]

It's more work to sand the top down though. Because once you get to the right height now you have to roll over the squared edge and even intonate if needed and polish it out. If the saddle was already intonated then you ruin it.

Just glue a sheet or two of 100 grit sandpaper to a piece of MDF. Mark with a line the angle you want to remove and then sand away. You have to just figure out how to apply pressure so that you take the angle out from almost zero to the specified height on the high e-string.

One trick for keeping things square and in check is to rotate the saddle around 180 degrees ever say ten strokes or something like that. Keep looking at it to make sure you are not sanding an angle.

I do it all by eye but some will take a block of wood and square that up so that they can then use that as a fence to square up on the last few sanding strokes.