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  #16  
Old 11-19-2018, 10:40 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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On the subject of stainless steel fasteners...

If you are going to use stainless steel fasteners on stainless steel fasteners, to avoid galling, use a different series stainless for nut/insert and bolt/stud. If you don't, they'll be as good as welded together once you thread one onto the other. You'll be mighty unhappy if/when it comes time to remove or loosen the bolt.

The inserts posted earlier are 18/8 stainless (aka 304 series). If using those, use a different, non-300 series stainless bolt, such as a 400 series stainless.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2018, 12:31 PM
Big Band Guitar Big Band Guitar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
On the subject of stainless steel fasteners...

If you are going to use stainless steel fasteners on stainless steel fasteners, to avoid galling, use a different series stainless for nut/insert and bolt/stud. If you don't, they'll be as good as welded together once you thread one onto the other. You'll be mighty unhappy if/when it comes time to remove or loosen the bolt.

The inserts posted earlier are 18/8 stainless (aka 304 series). If using those, use a different, non-300 series stainless bolt, such as a 400 series stainless.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling
A little dab of Never-Sieze should take care of that. Most auto part stores have small packets near the checkout.
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  #18  
Old 11-22-2018, 09:24 AM
H165 H165 is offline
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Quote:
It occurs to me that Stainless Steel lag bolts have really sharp threads and may make for a better tap than a galvanized lag.
I use the galvanized lag because it has a couple of advantages for me:

1. The overall sizes (barrel and thread O.D.s) more closely match the insert I use. The stainless and plated lags are slightly smaller.

2. The galvanized threads are rough, making a more abrasive cutting edge for the tapping.

Quote:
I personally would still tap the holes. This way, you're cutting the threads not displacing wood- and that could have disastrous results depending on what wood you use.
Agree. I tapped because I went into somewhat harder (Janka scale) wood. So far, I have found mahogany and cedar more forgiving than CA-glue-impregnated maple or rosewood (Cedar = 600, Genuine Mahogany = 800, Hard Maple = 1450, EIR = 2440). ref: https://www.bellforestproducts.com/info/janka-hardness/
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2018, 05:53 AM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieAtienza View Post
Or better yet, use threaded studs on the neck heel, and use cap bolts (internally threaded) inside the guitar. .
Louie, do you have a link to where it might be possible to buy internally threaded cap bolts ?
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  #20  
Old 11-26-2018, 09:38 AM
Big Band Guitar Big Band Guitar is offline
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How to install

http://woodgears.ca/reader/walters/s...ns.html#insert
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"My opinion is worth every penny you paid for it."

"If you try to play like someone else, Who will play like you". Quote from Johnny Gimble

The only musician I have to impress today is the musician I was yesterday.

No tubes, No capos, No Problems.
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