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#17
05-15-2016, 12:01 PM
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Yes to both questions. The saddle appears flat on top, which may be the cause of your problem with the dull sound.
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#18
05-15-2016, 12:06 PM
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The slot for the 6 string appears too thin/narrow to accommodate the wider wrap at the string's end.
And just to maximize the string's clarity, when the string is fit well, press on the string where it passes just forward of the saddle, to sharpen the bend.
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#19
05-15-2016, 03:26 PM
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First of all - thanks everyone for your comments.
It appears the slots dont go through the bridgeplate. John Arnold: heres an end elevation of the saddle. There is a very slight radius on the back of the saddle. If someone could post pictures of what the end result for the slotting and saddle that would really clarify things. http://s974.photobucket.com/user/dav...A037.jpg.html]  [/URL][/IMG]
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#21
05-15-2016, 10:32 PM
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I think John nailed it with the saddle not shaped correctly. And yes, the slots should run all the way through. But, when you got the guitar back from her, was the bridge pin sticking up like that? Or was she just making slight "ramps" for the strings?
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#24
05-16-2016, 12:05 PM
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The saddle is placed unusually far back on that bridge. It may not be possible to slot for the low E so that a solid pin can be used without getting the string right next to the saddle, with a near 90º break over the saddle, and the break being right where the string's overwrap ends.
My hunch here: your problems are stemming from a mistake made by Martin's repair shop. Does the guitar intonate well? If so, that suggests that they misplaced the bridge, moved the saddle back, and decided that there was not enough room for slotting. Look closely for any sign of an ebony strip having been inlaid right in front of the saddle. If it intonates noticeably flat, that would suggest that the bridge was made with the saddle in the wrong place--and that they decided there was not enough room for slotting. The saddle also looks as if it has been lowered from both the bottom and the top; the bottom does not go to the ends of the slot, and the top is not rounded the way Martin does them. If your tech never took that saddle out, that also is consistent with Martin having relocated it. I get that you don't like having to deal with the guitar going back to Martin, and they may complain about someone else having worked on it, but IMO your problem started there.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon Last edited by Howard Klepper; 05-16-2016 at 12:51 PM.
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#25
05-16-2016, 04:40 PM
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Hi Howard,
Thanks for your reply. I know they did not use a D28 Authentic bridge on it. I compared it to a D28 Authentic owned by an acquaintance, and there were some geometrical differences. I think maybe they used a GE or Marquis saddle on this. Is that another possibility for the saddle placement being off? I can measure the distance from the sound hole to the edge of the bridge if that would clarify? I will have a look for the ebony strip you speak of. The luthier took the saddle down from the top only.
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#26
05-16-2016, 10:06 PM
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Measured from the soundhole I get 3 inches and 5/32 to the edge of the bridge. Also 1/8 of an inch from saddle to the edge of the pin hole. Is this placement correct?
Im finding it hard to see any enony strip in front of the saddle. The slotting seems like a minor problem now. What concerns me is the potential bridge misplacement. If its misplaced how can you fix it? A new bridge would be offset from the footprint of the current saddle. Do Martin usually run the finish underneath or do the glue the bridge first?   
Last edited by Dave JH; 05-16-2016 at 10:14 PM.
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#27
05-17-2016, 11:10 AM
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I'd say you have just enough room to slot for the low E.
There may be some standard distance from the soundhole to the bridge on a Martin D, but I have no idea what it is, and it is not how you check intonation. Use a tuner or your ears.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon
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#28
05-17-2016, 11:23 AM
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What about the break angle getting to steep? Is that an issue?
I would imagine rounding off the back of the saddle properly will help alleviate that? You are right about measuring from the soindhole, the scale length should be 25.4 inches on a martin dread. I contactec Martin and they said that saddle placement is subject to tokerance, andvtheir could be variation. I didnt see or hear from Martin about any ebony strip in front of the saddle.
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#29
05-29-2016, 12:01 PM
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I have a couple of stew mac files and I took it upon myself to round off the back if the saddle carefully. Then I strung it up with fresh Daddario EJ 17's and the good news isthe E strings got its mojo back. Whether its the curvature in the saddle or a dull string its a good result. Thanks all for your input.
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#30
05-30-2016, 02:06 PM
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The steeper the break angle the more tipping force there is on the saddle top, which can break out the front of the slot. It's far enough back on that bridge that it may not be an issue, but that's part of the cause of the other problems.
In the close-up the saddle appears to be leaning forward toward the neck a bit, and the front edge looks rounded down a little. If that's the case this would cause the string to bear on a point in back of the edge when it's not vibrating, and to roll downward onto the saddle top as it moves down. This is the basic mechanism that gives sitars their 'buzzy' sound: it's part of the style there, but not so much on guitars.
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