#1
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Recommend a CF for flatpick fiddle tunes
Who is flatpicking a CF in place of a D18/D28 in this context? Flatpicking fiddle tunes and flatpicking fiddle accompaniment. Almost a BG application, but not quite. Both acoustic and amplified tone important.
What do you recommend and why? I have a CA travel CF, 2 CF 12’s (RS and X20) and an APLE. Looking for the right flatpicker for dry, hot mountain climate. Will an X20 cut it? RS dread body? Or something else out there? It doesn’t have to have “vintage Martin tone”, just needs to sound and play well strummed and picked. Thanks for your experience and opinions. |
#2
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I'd guess an X-20 and a Sable might just work...
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#3
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Meaning no disrespect, but if you have an APLE and don't think it will do the job, then there's probably no point in your looking at any other CF guitars. I lucked on to a used one and it's the best CF I've played, big or little. UNLESS the problem with it for flatpicking is either that the strings don't have as much "snap" because of the shorter scale, or that you play fancy enough stuff that you really want the 14-fret neck. If it's the first, it should be solvable by going to slightly heavier gauge strings. If the second, since I flatpick, but am not all that great, to put it mildly, I can't be of much help. But remember the old folky guitarist maxim, "There ain't no money above the fifth fret."
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#4
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Thanks Pete.
The APLE is a great guitar, for sure. It’s what I have been using where a CF instrument is needed, as a “do-all” instrument. My opinion is that it's designed for fingerstyle primarily, which is my main RH style. When I flatpick, I use a wide dynamic range in solo, duet and small group settings. Amplified the aple is just fine. But when I get aggressive or “dig in” acoustically, the scale length (and yes, likely the string gauge) seem a bit limiting compared to, say, a Collings D1A. Of course. So, maybe what I’m asking is, “what is the CF equivalent to a D1A”?! Ha.... Heavier string gauge might be the answer, but that will change the fingerstyle RH dynamics on that guitar. So....... |
#5
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I think there's a pretty pronounced difference between a Rainsong APLE (OM) and the DR dreadnought. If you're looking for a full-scale dreadnought sound, the DR-1000N2 would be the body shape to consider, for sure. If you want something bright, look at the Classic series; if you want something warmer, look at a Hybrid. But to compare to the Collings, a Concert series will probably be the closest, at least from Rainsong.
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#6
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I use a shorty with good results, in Id right now for a festival this weekend in Kamiah and have it along. Strung with SCGC low tensions no amp. The dread has more punch and volume but I still like the ok body size. I am way to paranoid to take my custom Martin, 7k is to much to risk! Don’t get the tone with C.F. but no worries.
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#7
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Don’t fiddle tunes originate from Ireland ?
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#8
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Thanks for the input all!
Good one Long Jon. After that Irish clip I think my first step might be a string experiment with the aple. |
#9
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Waiting on delivery of a RS WS, will let you know my thoughts. Supposed to get here today. As others have suggested, the DR is probably a safe bet, and you’d have to decide where on the “warmth” scale you want to be when it comes to deciding on H, Classic, CO, etc. I think the Classic is well balanced, almost went with that on the WS, but got a very good deal on a BI.
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--------------------------------------- 2013 Joel Stehr Dreadnought - Carpathian/Malaysian BW 2014 RainSong H-OM1000N2 2017 Rainsong BI-WS1000N2 2013 Chris Ensor Concert - Port Orford Cedar/Wenge 1980ish Takamine EF363 complete with irreplaceable memories A bunch of electrics (too many!!) |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Thanks for your additional comments guys.
Often I need to play for a small crowd in a big room with terrible acoustic properties or, worse, outdoors. Often unamplified, old school picking. There’s a new fiddler/violinist in the picture. Up ‘til now it has been a harmonica player and another backup guitar player. Altitude is 6000’, humidity 15-25% or so. Pretty harsh for a wood instrument. Not sure how the fiddler will cope, but that’s her issue. I play dreads w no size issue, thankfully. The RS WS 3000 12-er projects well unamplified, but hey it’s twice the strings....🤔 Thinking RS dread or WS type, or Emerald X-20 (of which I have an excellent 12-er, but in a different location). I appreciate the discussion. Mark. |
#12
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Well, on another thread, Emerald just unveiled their new X30... looking at the numbers, it is a big guitar. Owning Emeralds, there is no doubt they will make it comfortable. And, physics being what it is, it should be plenty loud acoustically.
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#13
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I saw the notice but haven’t seen the guitar yet. Jeez, 17” lower bout!
Will await sound clips. Sometimes the big’uns just don’t work for quick flatpicking, sometimes they do. Attack/Response speed, etc. of course, this is Emerald, and CF. Thanks all for helping out the thought process. Fwiw, the current guitar serving that purpose at dry altitude is a 70’s or 80’s Tak dread. Sounds real good plugged in, so-so acoustically. Remarkably stable. |
#14
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Late to the thread, but I have a pre-peavey CG-GX. It fell a little out of favour with me for a while but I've since put 0.013s on it and I find it a great flatpicking guitar now. It probably still can't complete with a full dred but everytime I pick it up I cant help but run through Church St Blues or Whiskey Before breakfast.
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#15
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I would go with the X20 and the APLE. I have a Lucky 13 that is an excellent flat picker. I think the APLE should be all that and maybe more. Of course the guitar I take if I can only bring one and don't know what I will be doing is the X20 6 string, because it can handle whatever I need to do.
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Cheers, Tom PS If you don't want to invest in yourself, why should anyone else even bother to try? |