Low profile capo

[phcorrigan]

Originally Posted by ljguitar

One last thing…the material which presses strings on every capo I've owned develops dents, and/or hardens up after years of constant use.

So if I cannot replace the upper bumper, I replace the capos.

Paige, Shubb, G7th, and I'm sure many others can provide replacement pads. I replaced the pad on my Shubb after 20 years or so, and I recently replaced the sleeve on my Paige, but I probably didn't need to.

BTW, you can rotate the sleeves on Paige standard capos, so each sleeve effectively has four sides to use.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by phcorrigan

Paige, Shubb, G7th, and I'm sure many others can provide replacement pads. I replaced the pad on my Shubb after 20 years or so, and I recently replaced the sleeve on my Paige, but I probably didn't need to.

BTW, you can rotate the sleeves on Paige standard capos, so each sleeve effectively has four sides to use.

Hi Patrick…

Yup…and it's a great perk of tube-style capos (and Shubb's forethought).

But after a decade, the rubber of Shubbs, and Paige, Elliott (and others) not only form dents, they begin to harden up…rotating them does little to help.

I found an old Shubb in my guitar storage drawers, and the rubber cracked all the way through.

After over a decade, the tubing on my Elliott had been rotated several times, and needed replacing. It had hardened to the point I had a tough time getting it off. Not only hardened, but shrank slightly. I nearly had to pry it off - I didn't want to cut if off and risk damaging my-fingers.

I've not owned Paiges long enough to wear any out.

[Jeff Scott]

How well do yoke-style capos work on asymmetrical profile necks?

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by Jeff Scott

How well do yoke-style capos work on asymmetrical profile necks?

Hi Jeff…

What is an asymmetrical profile neck?

[phcorrigan]

Originally Posted by ljguitar

Hi Patrick…

Yup…and it's a great perk of tube-style capos (and Shubb's forethought).

But after a decade, the rubber of Shubbs, and Paige, Elliott (and others) not only form dents, they begin to harden up…rotating them does little to help.

Yes, that's why I replaced the pad on my Shubb and Paige, although the Paige could have gone a little longer without replacement. Even the pads on more expensive capos wear out, which is why makers like G7th provide replacement pads, even for the $150 Heritage.

[Jeff Scott]

Originally Posted by ljguitar

Hi Jeff…

What is an asymmetrical profile neck?

Off-set from the CL of the beam.
https://www.google.com/search?q=asym..._AUoAnoECAIQBA

[jaymarsch]

Originally Posted by Jeff Scott

How well do yoke-style capos work on asymmetrical profile necks?

A couple of things from a couple of responses here.
I have what I would consider an asymmetrical neck on my Wingert E and OO. It has more of a flatter shoulder on the bottom curve (like a D shape) and falls off more dramatically on the upper part of the curve (like a modified low oval). Yoke style capos work the best for me for these guitar. G7th Performance capos do not work very well at all with these necks. Shubbs work pretty well.

As far as the tubing goes on the Elliotts, I have used them for 15 years and replace the tubing on a them every couple of years - no hardening and no appreciable denting over that time. I rotate the tubing every few months. For me and what I want in terms of tone and functionality, it is a small price to pay. However, I am not a gigging musician and maybe only perform about once a month so there may be other factors to take into consideration.

Best,
Jayne

[Jeff Scott]

My two guitars with asymmetrical necks (Yamamotos) are like fat aerofoil shapes, thicker under the E and A strings, then tapering quite a bit going towards the high E, so the thickest part of the neck is off-center.

[Marshall]

Originally Posted by JKMartin

Take a look at Colorado Capo (link). I've never tried one, but they are a different design.

Maury's sells them (link).

(no affiliation)



Attachment 59895

Interesting.

I use the Planetwaves NS capo. I buy the plastic ones.



Then I saw off the the portion I don't need that extends over the fretboard. I can also make a partial capo by cutting off unnecessary portions.

But I'm a sucker for technology, so I ordered a Colorado Capo just for yucks.

[Methos1979]

I got my Colorado capo yesterday and gave it a try. It works as advertised and does a good job. Even with my relatively flat Froggy Bottom fretboard, no issues with buzzing. While it does work well and offers more room with the offset yoke, I found it a bit disconcerting because apparently I was using that as a reference point of where my hand should go. My hand position acclimated over the years to the capo position and butted up against it. So now it feels weird when I make that chord shape and there's no capo to butt up against! I found myself wanting to slide my fretting hand back farther than it needs to/should go. I'm sure it will just take a little getting used to. But it does give you a little more room on certain chords.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by Marshall

Interesting.

I use the Planetwaves NS capo. I buy the plastic ones.

Then I saw off the the portion I don't need that extends over the fretboard. I can also make a partial capo by cutting off unnecessary portions.

But I'm a sucker for technology, so I ordered a Colorado Capo just for yucks.

Hi Marshall…

I've made a lot of partial capos out of the Aluminum Planet Waves NS Pro and the Dual-Action (Spring Loaded squeeze ones).

I tried one of the plastic, but it didn't hold up to the rigors of regular use.

I saw them off (and file them smooth) as you mention and then I use a cheap Harbor Freight box of many sizes of Shrink Tube to build up the bottom arm/pad so they sit level on the neck.

I don't build up the Spring Loaded ones, so I do have to wiggle them to level them after putting them on the neck. The springs are not sensitive, so they tend to need a bit of over-tightening to seat them adequately.

[Methos1979]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

I got my Colorado capo yesterday and gave it a try. It works as advertised and does a good job. Even with my relatively flat Froggy Bottom fretboard, no issues with buzzing. While it does work well and offers more room with the offset yoke, I found it a bit disconcerting because apparently I was using that as a reference point of where my hand should go. My hand position acclimated over the years to the capo position and butted up against it. So now it feels weird when I make that chord shape and there's no capo to butt up against! I found myself wanting to slide my fretting hand back farther than it needs to/should go. I'm sure it will just take a little getting used to. But it does give you a little more room on certain chords.

Just a quick follow-up for anyone that read my comments above and had concerns - I played for an hour at a band practice for an upcoming gig using the Colorado Capo and I acclimated to it very quickly with no problems. It was very neat to play and not have any contact with the capo with my fretting hands. I plan to continue to use this capo.

[DavidE]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

Just a quick follow-up for anyone that read my comments above and had concerns - I played for an hour at a band practice for an upcoming gig using the Colorado Capo and I acclimated to it very quickly with no problems. It was very neat to play and not have any contact with the capo with my fretting hands. I plan to continue to use this capo.

How hard is it to place the CC properly? It looks a bit fussy in Maury's video.

[Methos1979]

Originally Posted by DavidE

How hard is it to place the CC properly? It looks a bit fussy in Maury's video.

Actually, I find it easier to place the capo properly than other yoke style capos for two reasons.

First, the way it's designed to work (as shown in Maury's video) is for the rubber pad/bar at the front of the capo needs to be placed directly or nearly on top of the fret. I still need to tilt the guitar fretboard towards me to make sure it's on straight but you can easily see the rubber pad from the side so you can tell you are in the correct position.

The second thing I really like is due to the yoke action being farther back I can more easily center the capo by feel on the fretboard. With regular yoke capos I could not do this by feel and therefore it would typically be off centered at least a little bit and oftentimes quite a bit. I do not find it awkward to put it on.

[Deliberate1]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

Actually, I find it easier to place the capo properly than other yoke style capos for two reasons.

First, the way it's designed to work (as shown in Maury's video) is for the rubber pad/bar at the front of the capo needs to be placed directly or nearly on top of the fret. I still need to tilt the guitar fretboard towards me to make sure it's on straight but you can easily see the rubber pad from the side so you can tell you are in the correct position.

The second thing I really like is due to the yoke action being farther back I can more easily center the capo by feel on the fretboard. With regular yoke capos I could not do this by feel and therefore it would typically be off centered at least a little bit and oftentimes quite a bit. I do not find it awkward to put it on.

OP here. That capo is intriguing. How accurate is intonation compared with other capos you have used.
Thanks.
David