#1
|
|||
|
|||
How do you play in new strings to get to concerts pitch?
After re-stringing I always brought the strings up a few notches above pitch (using a headstock tuner) knowing they’d stretch out and I ultimately would fine tune to get to the correct note.
It occurred to me that I should only ever tune to pitch and tune up as needed....never going above correct pitch. Or doesn’t it matter? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I “stretch” the strings several times...really just ensures that the strings are tight on the tuners and on the saddle end...and then tune up to pitch. My guitar, an Emerald X20 carbon fiber, generally stays in tune after that, only needing tiny tweaks now and then.
__________________
Angie |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Lots of opinions on this. After stringing, I tune to pitch, and then starting with the 6th string (bass E) wrap my fretting hand around the neck and hold the string down at the first couple of frets, and then pull up with the other hand around the 12th fret putting tension on it…it goes flat, I tune back to pitch and pull again, it goes flat, and I tune it back to pitch. Move on to the next string. It eventually settles in pretty quickly. I can settle strings down in under 5 minutes after stringing and tuning to pitch. I used to call it stretching the string, but it's actually just settling it. That's my process. I often restring the day of any major gig and always immediately before recording. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Whenever possible, I change strings two days prior to a major gig, tuning to pitch and letting them settle in on their own.
__________________
1 dreadnought, 1 auditorium, 1 concert, and 2 travel guitars. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I always tune new strings to pitch, stretch, re-tune and keep repeating until all slack is taken up and tuning is stable. By the way 'stretching' is a misnomer; all you're doing is tightening the wraps around the tuner post, not actually physically stretching the string.
__________________
Faith Mars FRMG Faith Neptune FKN Epiphone Masterbilt Texan |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I've been playing stringed instruments over 40 years. My first 8 years were lots of performing. I now have around 20 fiddles, mandos and guitars that I play at home, in weekly jams and about two gigs per month. I've never had to do any extra "stretching" gyrations for my strings. Change 'em, tune 'em, play 'em. Retune as needed.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Most techs that work for touring artists employ the “stretching” technique. Luthiers who have worked on my instruments advised me to use that method.
It shortens the time that would be spent using the tuning key to do it, so it seems the quickest way to be playing with the new strings and sounding great.
__________________
McCollum Grand Auditorum Euro Spruce/Brazilian PRS Hollowbody Spruce PRS SC58 Giffin Vikta Gibson Custom Shop ES 335 '59 Historic RI ‘91 Les Paul Standard ‘52 AVRI Tele - Richie Baxt build Fender American Deluxe Tele Fender Fat Strat |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I always put on new strings the morning of if possible or the day before playing in public. I tune to pitch, play a few "big" first position chords, tune and repeat a few times. Let the guitar stand a while, tune, play some songs, retune as needed. This has seemed to work.
I like some of the "stretching" ideas posted here, never thought of it myself. I think I'll give a try real soon. Thank you. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
This!
__________________
John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
_zedagive If you play it right the first time, it's not hard enough. Breedlove Exotic CM Classic E: Red Cedar/Black Walnut Bedell Angelica Bellissima Parlor: Sunken Cedar/EIR Breedlove Crossover OO Mandolin: Sitka/Maple |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
This - The big G has it.
__________________
Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Walker Clark Fork (Adi/Honduran Rosewood) Edmonds OM-28RS - Sunburst (Adi/Old Growth Honduran) |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Slothead, I've stretched in each string as I've put it on for more than forty years now by bringing each new string up to pitch, pressing down at the first fret with my left hand while sliding the fingers of my right hand underneath the string from down around the soundhole all the way up to the first fret. Then I repeated that until each new string stayed at pitch and didn't go out, usually five to six times a string.
But about three months ago now I became a convert to an inexpensive little gizmo called the String Stretcha, which has simplified, streamlined and sped up the process for me: String Stretcha String Stretcha in use Here's a review from an online gear page: https://www.guitaranswerguy.com/002/ That page has the manufacturer's video embedded in it, which is a good quick tutorial on how to use one. I paid $12.50 for mine. I don't use mine on my mandolins, but I've never stretched in my mandolin strings, anyway. But I do use the String Stretcha on all of my guitars, mountain dulcimers and banjos now. It's a useful little doodad, and I recommend it. Full disclosure: I have no commercial ties to whatever company it is that makes the String Stretcha, I'm just happy with how well the thing works and am using one when I change my strings these days. Hope this helps. Wade Hampton Miller |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I used to stretch my strings after the first tuning after install, but I no longer do this. I often use roundwound strings and the one thing you do not want to do with roundwound (or any string) is disturb the windings as it can make the wound strings die prematurely. Whether true or not seems irrelevant as I now just tune to pitch, play some, tune again, rinse and repeat until the guitar settles. It only takes two or three cycles for stability.
__________________
Assuming is not knowing. Knowing is NOT the same as understanding. There is a difference between compassion and wisdom, however compassion cannot supplant wisdom, and wisdom can not occur without understanding. facts don't care about your feelings and FEELINGS ALONE MAKE FOR TERRIBLE, often irreversible DECISIONS |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Take a string out of the package, seat the ball end snugged against the bridge plate and secured with the bridge pin, push the free end through the tuner capstan where experience tells you the proper number of wraps will result, then tension (stretch) the string to its concert pitch. Tuning strings to their respective frequencies is synonymous with stretching them, i.e., no stretch, no sound.
I begin installing strings with the two inside courses and work my way outboard, tuning to pitch as I go. Once all strings are installed, tightened to their frequencies and free ends snipped off and bent double to keep the sharp ends pointed at the tuner capstan, I gently stretch each string by pulling it at a point midway between the nut and saddle. I hold it there for a 3 count and then gently relieve the stretch. I do this twice per string and then fine tune from there. Each string will have a certain amount of stretch on it at concert pitch. When the individual strings slip below pitch it's because they've relaxed a bit of elasticity and need to be stretched back to pitch. Initially their elasticity will allow them to slip tuning so the manual stretching helps them reach a more stable state where their elasticity is capable of resisting any more stretching. Once a string no longer slips tuning (stretches) it can be said to have reached its metal fatigue state (loss of its elasticity), becomes brittle and much of the tone is gone. This describes a dead string. This occurs around 5-6 months in the upper frequencies. I change steel strings every 3 weeks, which is when the trebles begin to fatigue and lose their brilliance. |