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  #121  
Old 10-27-2017, 12:57 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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I'm still learning about voicing so I'm probably going to put the top on first. I could put the back on first but given the hiccups I've had with voicing and this odd bracing pattern I may want to tweak things with the chisel once the edges are affixed to the sides.
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  #122  
Old 10-27-2017, 05:55 PM
CabinetMan CabinetMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil K Walk View Post
I'm still learning about voicing so I'm probably going to put the top on first. I could put the back on first but given the hiccups I've had with voicing and this odd bracing pattern I may want to tweak things with the chisel once the edges are affixed to the sides.
I really don't know anything about voicing myself but would like to learn more about it. I pretty much just followed the scalloping and bracing patterns on the plans that I have. I could hear several different "tones" depending on where I tapped on the top. I didn't really know what to listen for though to tell you the truth.

I believe on my next build I will glue the back on first. I glued the top on this build first but I was happy with the way my back came out once it was glued on. I didn't make a mess of it but then again I've used so much Tite Bond over the years that I have the experience to know about how much to use so that I I don't make such a mess. Mine actually came out much cleaner than I expected it to.

Keep posting pictures. I've enjoyed looking though this thread and following the build.
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  #123  
Old 10-30-2017, 02:20 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Sometimes I wish I'd done a kit first just to build my confidence, but I'm satisfied with how things are progressing - though I admit that I could have closed the box in the last week. Part of the challenge lies in the bracing is not from a template so that I can scribe where to make corresponding cuts on the top of the kerfed lining. Instead, I'm using the seam of the mold as the centerline and working off that to position the top and then notch where to cut with an Exacto blade. It was even trickier with the A-Frame bracing and the neck block extension. I mulled over what to do and eventually came up with the idea to use soft charcoal to imprint the brace position on to the extension underneath:



Once marked, I simply used a pull saw and a caul to make a perpendicular cut on either edge of the imprint and then chisel out the material between:



Sure, the cuts aren't the cleanest but it would have been MUCH worse had I tried to use a power tool! This particular cut is going to require some "cosmetic surgery:"



The rest are relatively clean though and will be a non factor for when it comes time to rout (or chisel) the binding channels. For now, the plates are aligned and a dry fit of the pieces gives an idea of how well the assembly is otherwise proceeding:



Now that the furnace has begun to run with the recent change in weather they can now all live together in their hardshell case:



Next up, I need to smooth the profiles of the braces and bend a rosewood patch for the sound port. For that I am going basic and will soaking the rosewood for a day before using a clothes iron. I know it's not ideal, but this is after all just a hobby at this point.
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  #124  
Old 10-30-2017, 02:51 PM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
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Looks good. Starting to really come together!

If you're bending rosewood across the grain it shouldn't give you too much resistance. Also, it's not too difficult to chop out any offending lining and re-do the area. I find the best way is starting with an x-acto saw, then sharp x-acto blade. Sometimes I will use a Dremel after slitting with the razor saw. I also glue my backs on first. But you could still mark and notch the top in before gluing the back. Makes it a LOT easier, though I do it both ways.
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  #125  
Old 10-30-2017, 03:28 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Thanks!

I’m actually going to be bending it with the grain and sandwiching a thin piece of maple veneer between. Hopefully it’s enough of a stabilizing element but at the very least the maple line will compliment the maple binding.
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  #126  
Old 10-30-2017, 03:32 PM
Dru Edwards Dru Edwards is offline
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Neil, I didn't know you build guitars (even if only a couple). It looks great!
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  #127  
Old 10-30-2017, 04:44 PM
CabinetMan CabinetMan is offline
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Looking great Neil and it really coming along now. Really like that Maple binding on that neck. Makes me wish I would have done that.
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  #128  
Old 10-31-2017, 06:35 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Looking great Neil and it really coming along now. Really like that Maple binding on that neck. Makes me wish I would have done that.
Thanks. It will complicated things when it comes time to fret the fingerboard as I will have to radius the binding and nip the ends of the fret tang. I've already had a minor setback with the curved section at the end of the fretboard coming loose. The reason being is that I have had a hard time figuring out the exact length and angle of the end miters. I need to figure out a more efficient way to clamp it together as well.

Really though, these little setbacks are part of the fun. I'm reconsidering my earlier comment regarding doing a kit. I like the challenge and being able to sit back and pat myself on the back if I'm able to pull it off. For example, the little inlays on the back of my previous build were a way of hiding a misalignment of purfling strips that would have triggered my OCD.
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  #129  
Old 10-31-2017, 06:41 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Originally Posted by Dru Edwards View Post
Neil, I didn't know you build guitars (even if only a couple). It looks great!
Thanks, Dru. I have had a LOT of help though from Tim McKnight and Kitchen Guitars and several others who have either gifted or offered tools and materials.
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  #130  
Old 10-31-2017, 05:00 PM
Dru Edwards Dru Edwards is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil K Walk View Post
Thanks, Dru. I have had a LOT of help though from Tim McKnight and Kitchen Guitars and several others who have either gifted or offered tools and materials.
That's some mighty generosity there - good to hear.
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  #131  
Old 08-09-2018, 03:01 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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It’s been awhile. Life happens, humidity changes and things like this get pushed on the back burner. I’d like to at least get to final assembly of the body before the heat kicks on and I have to case this again for the winter.

Picking up where I left off, I’ve been working on the sides in order to mount the top. Since I’m on my phone I can’t type so well so I’ll keep it short and add pictures later.

- I put a maple veneer inside the upper top bout so that I can add a sound port later on.

- in dry fitting the top I determined that my go bar deck was of insufficient height. Instead of buying one at Stewmac for $600 I just upgraded mine by replacing the 24” metal tubes with 36” long threaded 1/2” diameter rods. I also saw that someone over at the Kit Builders Forum had mounted head board on the underside of the “roof” and used nylon rods repurposed from an electrical wire running kit from Harbor Freight. I trimmed them from 36” Dow to 28”. Kept the female fitting on one end and now the other end can lock into one of the peg holes. Total cost is less than $200; still more than I would have liked to have spent but it doubled as a work table that I use for sanding.





- I noticed that my upper bout wasn’t fitting ideally and determined that I need to adjust the geometry in the top of the rims. The reason for that is because the rims currently have a 28’ radius and the main brace in that area is dead flat to accommodate the fretboard in that area.

- I also made a primitive sanding jig that will allow me to sand that area flat with 1-1/2 degree slope to set the angle of the fingerboard. I’m trying to think ahead and avoid a jump in the fretboard at the neck joint.

- I also trimmed as much of the excess from the top as I could with the band saw. The reason for that is that the overhang was making it hard to judge any gaps in my progress. I’ve also had to gradually rout the notches in the neck block extension A frame and notches for the rims deeper in order for the braces to fit and allow the top to sit flish on the kerfed lining.



It's been slow going but I'm being extra careful - while still making newbie mistakes. It's hard to believe that I started my first build 9 years ago and I'm still only this far along on #2. Like I said though: life happens and my attention has been elsewhere.
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  #132  
Old 08-28-2018, 07:13 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here's both!



No, the top and fingerboard are not being glued on before the body is complete and the fingerboard glued on the neck. I'm just sanding the top edge of the upper bout region of the sides in order to help establish the proper neck angle later on down the line. The top is nearly ready to be glued on; just a few more passes with a block plan on the high spots and then some work with an angled sanding jig. By dry fitting like this, inserting in a small light source and then turning out all the other lights I'm able to see where I need to focus my efforts - and I'm very close! If I keep motivated I'll finally be closing the box - only to shift my thoughts toward my least favorite part of the build: routing the channels for the body binding and actually bending the binding itself.
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  #133  
Old 09-14-2018, 07:56 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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I'm bumping this for the simple reason that I'm looking to motivate myself to keep momentum going - although I admit that to others the momentum has been slow going. I expect that some would think that I've been wasting my time on this, but bear in mind that this is something I'm using to inspire me to work harder on things in general. Sometimes this gets pushed aside because I'm tasked elsewhere.
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  #134  
Old 09-14-2018, 01:11 PM
TEK TEK is offline
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Hey Neil,
Its good to see you hanging in there on this build. I like that you are taking your time and working on it when it feels right. So many newbies are so anxious to get to certain milestones in the build, like closing the box, that they end up with major mistakes or problems that is hard to fix after the fact.

After all, its the journey more so than the destination.

Not to put any pressure on you but in your signature you have this listed as a
201? build, you have about 15 months to finish it.

Travis
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  #135  
Old 09-14-2018, 03:08 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Originally Posted by TEK View Post
Hey Neil,
Its good to see you hanging in there on this build. I like that you are taking your time and working on it when it feels right. So many newbies are so anxious to get to certain milestones in the build, like closing the box, that they end up with major mistakes or problems that is hard to fix after the fact.

After all, its the journey more so than the destination.

Not to put any pressure on you but in your signature you have this listed as a
201? build, you have about 15 months to finish it.

Travis
LOL. I’m this (><) close to closing the box. I did screw something up, BTW. I got overzealous with the block plane between the waist and the inlets on the x brace at the upper bout. Using the “light leak” method I saw gaps while clamped down so I have to remove the reversed kerfed lining in those areas and install new ones. I also need to deepen the notches on the backside of the rims.

As for the date of the finished build, I’m sticking with 2019. It’ll be seven years into the build and my 50th birthday. I’d say it’s a 20th anniversary present to my wife too, but she HATES my guitar “obsession” so she’s going to have to buy me something else! I’m still waiting for my midlife crisis sports car lol!
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