Split Soundboard Seam (too dry)

[runamuck]

Is the crack right on the glue line?

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Dothraki

There is no way I’m paying someone to do this. I will do a better job than an “expert” with my guitar. My questions are more about the urgency of fixing it.

Also, which hide glue people like.

You need to know what glue was used originally when the seam was closed. You can't use hide glue on a joint that's been made with Original Titebond and you can't use Titebond on a joint that was made with hide glue.

If it's a Martin it doesn't really matter. I'd go ahead and use the J.B. Weld.

(DO note the smiley face!!!)

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Dothraki

Perfect! Thanks for the great tips! I think I have some Titebond original in the basement. I see Titebond makes a “hide glue” as well but not sure what additives are in with it.

Don't use bottled hide glue. I'm sure there are anecdotes where people have been successful but there will be more where they weren't.

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by redir

Get a fresh bottle of Titebond. If it's been in your basement for while it may be old and the stuff does deteriorate with age, and it's cheap. Many times with cracks like this the bridge needs to be removed. Pics would help.

Agreed, I just parked a 1/2 bottle of titebond that started looking "lumpy and gummy" after being used on and off about a year. I'll save it for unimportant projects that require little strength.

[redir]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

You need to know what glue was used originally when the seam was closed. You can't use hide glue on a joint that's been made with Original Titebond and you can't use Titebond on a joint that was made with hide glue.

If it's a Martin it doesn't really matter. I'd go ahead and use the J.B. Weld.

(DO note the smiley face!!!)

It's funny 'cause it's true.' last year I restored a beautiful pre-war (pre Civil War) Martin guitar, that someone literally had slathered JB weld on.

Good point on the fact that if it is indeed the seam then it' a bigger issue.

**** experts getting in the way again!!!!

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by redir

Get a fresh bottle of Titebond. If it's been in your basement for while it may be old and the stuff does deteriorate with age, and it's cheap. Many times with cracks like this the bridge needs to be removed. Pics would help.

Good point. I’ll pick up a new bottle.

Here’s a couple pics…

Well…I couldn’t figure out how to upload pics, but it’s a fine split, perfectly straight down the middle, maybe a hair width from the bridge down a few inches and is harder to notice on the lower half.

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by runamuck

Is the crack right on the glue line?

Yes, It’s right on the center where the two halves meet.

[Dothraki]

Looks like StewMac is a good resource for cleats and clamps… also I created a little 47% RH environment in a 3x3x6 zip tent with a couple wet washcloths in bowls, I’m not sure if the case will humidify while it’s closed up but stuck some boveda packs inside with the guitar. I’m just glad winter is over and now I know the limits in my house as far as RH and my wooden noise boxes. No more experimenting lol.

If it was just cosmetic I’d ignore it, because it sounds great right now.

[Mandobart]

Just out of curiosity and to add to the general body of AGF anecdotal experience,

1. how dry did the guitar storage area get?

2. how long was it exposed to these conditions?

3. was the guitar in a case or out?

4. make and year?

5. did the temperature of the storage area also change while this happened?

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by Mandobart

Just out of curiosity and to add to the general body of AGF anecdotal experience,

1. how dry did the guitar storage area get?

2. how long was it exposed to these conditions?

3. was the guitar in a case or out?

4. make and year?

5. did the temperature of the storage area also change while this happened?

Around low 30’s once winter hit, usually i’m mid to high 40’s or 50 but only in the summer. Not cased, not humidifed. Eastman E10D Adirondack top, can’t be more than a few years old. No temp issues just RH

[Dothraki]

Threw some not fresh but still squishy boveda packs in the sound hole and surprisingly they haven’t dried up after a few days of being in it. But who knows, those packs could be trying to steal more water from the wood lol. They are the 48% packs. Might have to try the garbage bag method.

[runamuck]

Originally Posted by Dothraki

Yes, It’s right on the center where the two halves meet.

It's likely that the joint was glued with aliphatic, (Titebond) and it does not adhere well to itself. It was designed, for structural purposes, to be used on raw wood. I'd use a good quality epoxy, like West System.

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by runamuck

It's likely that the joint was glued with aliphatic, (Titebond) and it does not adhere well to itself. It was designed, for structural purposes, to be used on raw wood. I'd use a good quality epoxy, like West System.

I thought about that…but then, if it is Titebond, then there must be wood on both sides of the edges because the glue wouldn’t split before the wood right? In that case, fresh wood for the glue to stick to. I should check it with my macro lens.

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Dothraki

I thought about that…but then, if it is Titebond, then there must be wood on both sides of the edges because the glue wouldn’t split before the wood right? In that case, fresh wood for the glue to stick to. I should check it with my macro lens.

Titebond is unlikely to split before the wood but it's not impossible, checking is the right idea.

[printer2]

I have had the glue split.