Looking for an Ibanez saddle replacement

[daacrusher2001]

I'm working on an Ibanez AEF30 for a friend. The guitar has exceedingly high action further up the fretboard. It's not easily playable past the 9th fret. It's been sitting around for several years and needed strings and several other adjustments - all cleaned up now but the action is terrible.

I'd like to get a couple of saddles and try making some adjustments. This guitar is not an expensive guitar, but it could be usable as a studio instrument if we need an acoustic in a pinch.

The saddle is split into two pieces, btw. I've never seen that before, and I don't know the benefit of a split saddle - it's made of something Ibanez calls ivorex.

If I can't find one, I'll sand this one down a little at a time, but I'd prefer to get a couple of extras in case I make a mistake.

Anyone know where I could get a saddle to drop into this guitar?

Thanks!

[charles Tauber]

Start by identifying the problem. Measure the distance from the top of the 12 th fret to the bottom of the strings. Determine what you want that distance to be. Subtract what you want to have from what you currently have. Multiply that by 2. That is how much you must remove from the saddle to obtain your desired string height.

For example, if the current distance from the top of the 12th fret is 4/32 and you want to have 3/32, you must remove 1/16 (4/32 - 1/32 = 1/32 then 2 X 1/32= 1/16) from the height of the saddle.

Measure the amount of saddle protruding from the top of the bridge. Ideally, you will have no less than 1/16" after you have shortened the saddle. If you do not have that much, and the neck is as straight as you want it, it needs a neck reset. In that case lowering the saddle will not get you your desired action and you can save yourself the time and effort in advance. You can accurately predict what you can achieve by lowering the saddle simply using the measurements and calculations described above.

There is nothing special about a split saddle. Just treat it the same as a single saddle. To replace it, buy a single saddle and cut it into two pieces. Otherwise, take it to a professional.

[bnjp]

Saddles aren't typically drop in ready to fit. You need to sand down the bottom of the existing saddle....because if you make a mistake and go to low (don't do that! ) you'll have to make a new one anyway. Like Charles said, the saddle isn't the first thing to do. You need to adjust the truss rod first to correct the relief if needed, then address the nut slots if they are too high. Then measure the strings over the 12th fret. I decide how much lower I want the strings at the 12th, and mark the bottom of the saddle twice what I want at the 12th. Sand a little at a time and check it. Typical action at the 12th fret is 3/32" at the low E and 1/16" at the high E, although I usually go a little bit lower than that.

[daacrusher2001]

Thanks, guys...I should have been clearer. I did a full setup and determined the saddle needs adjusting. I think I can get it to where I want - no point in doing a neck reset on this guitar, if it comes to that, it's old and was purchased used for a very cheap price. However, I am 99% sure I can make it playable with some saddle adjusting.

The nut isn't perfect, but it's close enough for now.

I've done numerous saddle adjustments in the past, but I will admit, I have occasionally gone too low as I'm not always as precise as I'd like to be. That being the case, and with saddles not being too expensive, I usually get a couple of them.

Is there any reason to actually split a saddle like this? Just wondering

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by daacrusher2001

Is there any reason to actually split a saddle like this? Just wondering

Some manufacturers split a saddle to increase the range of compensation beyond what is possible with a single thin saddle, rather than using a wider saddle.

[Troisnoir]

As Charles said, some manufacturers (Alvarez is one) will build their guitars with two individual saddles, located unconnected to each other.

Looking at pics of your model, that doesn't seem to be one of those guitars. If you're saying your guitar has a traditional saddle slot, but the saddle you have is cut into two pieces...no - there's no reason I can think of to do that. You can replace it with a new, one-piece saddle.

It's possible someone split the saddle to better conform to the UST, but I don't think you should have to do that. I have heard of that advice in the past, though.