Best stripper...?

[mirwa]

Back on a more serious note

Just do not use any stripper, its messy and also impregnates the wood, which makes bonding of future layers of paint problematic...

[travisbrown]

Chris de Burgh will have an opinion on this.

[Tom West]

Originally Posted by Long Jon

Slip a 20 under the G string, stand back, it should strip it's self.

Best one yet......................!!
Tom

[redir]

LOL! I knew this thread had to get silly.

There is a stripper called aircraft remover and it will remove anything and everything. If you use it then you will need to let it soak for longer then the directions say and be ready for when it starts to melt and scrape it off right away.

Their product motto should be, 'It's evil.. but it works!'

[jessupe]

Originally Posted by Roquave

Looking to repaint my fender strat, it has a terrible paint job from my attempt at relic-ing it back in 09, looking to strip the current paint and sealer so I can paint it properly. Any advice would be great! Thanks in advance!

You will want to get what is called "Jasco premium" it is rated for an will remove virtual any varnish including epoxy.

You must use proper protection and have adequate ventilation.

The secondary product they make is the red label for antique/stain grade removal, this can be good for pulling reds out of the grain if you were to try to clear coat this, it is primarily for antiques and furniture.

Finally for some reason you were going to try to go "natural" and you needed to pull out more stain from deep in the grain, Sherwin williams makes a product called "Bix" which has a slightly less gelled product that is made to leech deep into the grain and then to be "rolled" out with absorbent rags, as if cleaning liquid out of a spill on carpet.

But the jasco premium should do what you want...

apply, let sit 10min, apply again, use plastic putty knife{round the corners] to snowplow off the goo, use another knife to help "dustbin" scoop it off, or better yet line a garbage can and snowpow right off the body and let the goo drip into the can...

once as much has bee removed as possible with the knife, then use apply more stripper and schedule with #1, 00,000 steel wool, never use the wool unless the piece is wet with stripper, ie. always wet sand with the wool an stripper, do not let the wood dry out, particularly with the #1. as it can scratch deep.

After the 000 simply wipe the piece with mineral spirit and allow to dry at least overnight. Sanding may or may not be needed, depending on what you plan on coating with.

Be very zen buddah when applying stripper it is VERY DANGEROUS, methyl chloride is very poisonous, causes very nasty skin burns, and can be lethal to your eyeballs, so always where EYE PROTECTION even a face shield isn't over kill. ALWAYS KEEP A SPRAY BOTTLE OF WATER NEAR BY. Water dousing will neutralize the burning effect, the water should be immediately sprayed on any exposed skin that this stuff touches and ANY eye contact should be considered a emergency and immediate long flushing under running water is a must, flushing within a minute of contact or not can be the difference between being permanently blinded or not.

Avoid getting right down on it unless you have an organic resporator on, its vapors are also VERY not good. Good gloves are essential, as are wipe up cloths, gloves that get the product on them become very slippery, so always wipe your gloved hands dry before trying to pick up the bottle or the work lest it get shot across the room slipping out of your hands.

Good luck