Why NOT to lock-wrap strings Martin-style?

[Twitch]

I will always use the "Taylor" method. Here's my reasoning:

The "Martin" method puts such a severe bend into the string that it creates a weak spot. It is so severe that if you ever had to rely on that point to hold all of the string tension, it will likely fail. The string survives, however, because the multiple wraps around the post after the bend hold the string just fine.

Why spend time performing unnecessary actions?

Of course my opinion only!

[JeffreyAK]

Originally Posted by Photojeep

Before I found this forum, well actually before Al Gore invented he Internet, no one taught me how to re-string my guitar so I just sort of made it up as I went.

Ha, same here. What I wound up with is what I much later learned was called the "Taylor method", and it's worked perfectly fine for me for a lot of years. But it really does not matter once it's all done, as long as the string is securely held and has a reasonable break angle at the nut.

[RustyAxe]

It won't hurt, but there are simpler techniques that work just as well. The only possible downside is that by crossing the string over itself it creates a weak spot with the potential for breakage at the post (usually when the nut slot is too tight). That doesn't happen often enough to really matter, though.

[vindibona1]

Originally Posted by dwasifar

The other [reason] is that I use round-core strings, and they go dead instantly if you cut them without a sufficient crimp first. Using the Martin method forces a good crimp, and I've never had that problem. .

Yep. DR round core strings require the crimping that the lock method provides.

My luthier doesn't use a wrap, but actually pulls the strings taut, wraps them around the posts, then tucks the end into the hole and trims. Seems to work well.

I tend to use the wrap method. I began using it after watching videos of Galazzeo Frudua when doing Stratocaster setups where one might use a tremelo bar. The logic behind the system is rational, especially with Strats, so I've just carried it on to acoustics. Yeah, removing the strings is a pain in the a** sometimes, especially the B string (why the B string and not the others so much???).

The way I see it, whatever works for ya is the way to go. The wrap method seems like wearing a belt and suspenders to hold your pants up, but you know it's not going to fail you. The other method is simply quicker and if you're changing strings a lot you'll want the most efficient way to get the job done. [mic drop ]

[brencat]

Originally Posted by Todd Yates

I like the method for several reasons. It may be functionally better, but I doubt it. However, it does make a very clean look by putting the string end up and tucked close to the tuner post, rather than sticking out at a right angle. This also allows me to cut using the top of the post as a guide, meaning my cutters are never near the finish surface. I don't find strings difficult to remove, but I have done it this way for a long time. I've had practice.

I've always used the Martin method and never had an issue. Like another poster, I use round core (DR Sunbeam) strings on 2 of my guitars so can't pre-cut them before winding to pitch. Todd also brings up a great point about using the top of the post as a cutting point to keep the sharp end flush, and I agree.

[TBman]

The only thing I lock is the bathroom door. This is the ultimate guitar geek thread. How about practicing instead, lol?

[dwasifar]

Originally Posted by TBman

The only thing I lock is the bathroom door. This is the ultimate guitar geek thread. How about practicing instead, lol?

Can't practice without stringing the guitar.

[dwasifar]

Originally Posted by brencat

I've always used the Martin method and never had an issue. Like another poster, I use round core (DR Sunbeam) strings on 2 of my guitars so can't pre-cut them before winding to pitch. Todd also brings up a great point about using the top of the post as a cutting point to keep the sharp end flush, and I agree.

How do you like those Sunbeams? I find that they're easier to play than most other strings at the same gauge. They seem, I dunno, flexier. Hella jangly for the first three days or so, though. I wouldn't put a new set on right before a gig.

My luthier is not lacking in opinions and not shy about sharing them. He hates the Martin wrap and he dislikes the DR strings. I value his opinion, but I want a full range of opinions, hence this thread for research.

[dneal]

Originally Posted by vindibona1

Yep. DR round core strings require the crimping that the lock method provides.

I use DR and Newtone round core strings. They only need that first bend in the string that's created from the hole in the tuner as you begin winding. The caveat to round cores is to not cut them to length before you start winding.

They don't even have to be tuned to pitch before you cut the excess.

[muscmp]

find the best method for you. i lock them and believe that works better for me.

play music!

[Brick is Red]

I will take time to read through this thread, and do so with interest. The "Martin method" has worked well for me. I found that I don't get slippage and my tuning stability is at least as good as it was before, and if I had to guess, probably better.

[brianmay]

Jeez, I can't believe this is still being talked about . . .

If your strings are attached and the guitar stays in tune and YOU are happy with it, what else matters?

Martin recommend their method - I use it. They also recommend wiping the strings down after playing - I don't.

It's not a capital offence . . . just do what suits YOU, you are the only one you have to please.

[fatt-dad]

I go all out and use the Martin Method! I mean it's not like I change the strings more than about once in the Summer, and less often in the Winter. . .

f-d

[dneal]

Originally Posted by brianmay

It's not a capital offence . . .

Neither is "still talking about this".

[Earl49]

I use a variation of the Taylor method. The string goes on with about 1" of extra length (~3/4" for bass E and A). Taylor pulls it back through, and pre-cuts at that length before winding. I pull the string back through, put a 90° bend to help hold it, and start winding multiple wraps. Then I trim the excess off. What they do in the factory to save a few seconds each time they string up hundreds of new guitars every day is not necessarily what I need when doing one or two guitars at home.

Back in the day, I was taught to change strings using the Martin (locking wrap) method but have not done it that way in more than 20 years. I've never had a string slip that had two wraps or more around the post -- usually with 3-4 wraps or more -- so the "locking wrap" really isn't necessary. Whatever works for you is fine with me.