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  #76  
Old 02-25-2020, 10:03 PM
Donegone Donegone is offline
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I've heard that changing a string mid-set is faster and easier if you don't use the Martin method. Makes sense to me. I never break strings, but I'm going to try the Taylor method and see if I like it. It does look faster to change a whole set too.
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  #77  
Old 02-26-2020, 01:29 AM
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JayBee1404 JayBee1404 is offline
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When I first began playing, back around 1961, I used the simple ‘poke the string through the hole and start winding’ method, I didn’t care how many turns around the post, whether the turns overlapped, whatever. But in the very early ‘70s, a guy in the band I was playing with showed me the method I’ve used ever since - many, many years later I found a video made by Bryan Kimsey demonstrating the exact same method....

https://youtu.be/C7jUHNjwzoY

I like the way the string turns upwards so I can cut it level with the top of the tuner post, which gives a neat, non-blood-letting result, and the ‘above/below’ wraps ‘grip’ the string. In recent years, I’ve discontinued the ‘lock’ on the ‘B’ and ‘e’ strings in Bryan’s video - I do those exactly the same as the wound strings but leave enough slack to give four or five turns around the post.

It’s worked fine for me for 45 years or so - ain’t changing now!

The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.
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Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019)
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Last edited by JayBee1404; 02-26-2020 at 03:02 AM.
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  #78  
Old 02-26-2020, 07:02 AM
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hubcapsc hubcapsc is offline
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I never knew about the this-brand method and the that-brand method ...

I generally change one string at a time. I don't know whether letting
all the tension off the neck is good or bad or a no-op, but not letting
it all off is what motivated me originally, now it is just my habit. I start
on the high E string.

I put the ball end into the pin-hole and slide the pin in and pull back
on the string as I push the pin in towards being seated so that the
ball end will be wedged on the end of the pin.

Then I put the un-cut string through the tuner hole and hold it down
with my finger on the first fret with some slack in it.

Then I start winding, trying to hold the slack in the string as I go, making
sure I'm getting clean wraps around the tuner post with no overlap. I always
believed overlap would increase the chance of a string break.

After a few winds it starts to become impossible to hold the slack in the
string.

After a few more winds the string starts to become tight, so I get it somewhere
near the right pitch.

As I continue on to thicker and thicker strings I return to the already done strings
playing a few notes and bends and making sure they stay somewhere near
the right pitch.

When they're all on there, I cut the strings (I used to wind them up into
a loop like on old Bob Dylan albums ) and get the guitar in tune.

Play a little, tune a little, repeat a couple of times and then it is stable.

Has any brand claimed this as a method?

-Mike "I doubt it..."
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  #79  
Old 02-26-2020, 07:19 AM
guitararmy guitararmy is offline
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I realize this is an old post, but I've tried the locking method and the regular method and didn't notice any difference. It would seem reasonable to lock the unwound strings but I haven't noticed any slippage. I suppose if one was an aggressive player it might help stay in tune...
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  #80  
Old 02-26-2020, 08:51 AM
jaymarsch jaymarsch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee1404 View Post
When I first began playing, back around 1961, I used the simple ‘poke the string through the hole and start winding’ method, I didn’t care how many turns around the post, whether the turns overlapped, whatever. But in the very early ‘70s, a guy in the band I was playing with showed me the method I’ve used ever since - many, many years later I found a video made by Bryan Kimsey demonstrating the exact same method....

https://youtu.be/C7jUHNjwzoY

I like the way the string turns upwards so I can cut it level with the top of the tuner post, which gives a neat, non-blood-letting result, and the ‘above/below’ wraps ‘grip’ the string. In recent years, I’ve discontinued the ‘lock’ on the ‘B’ and ‘e’ strings in Bryan’s video - I do those exactly the same as the wound strings but leave enough slack to give four or five turns around the post.

It’s worked fine for me for 45 years or so - ain’t changing now!

The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.
I think that I will try this method on my next string change. I saw you post it in another thread recently and it piqued my curiosity.

Best,
Jayne
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  #81  
Old 02-26-2020, 09:13 AM
Mike McLenison Mike McLenison is offline
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I've used the Martin method since 72. I find it ensures longer lasting intonation. You only need a couple of wraps at most after the string is locked.
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  #82  
Old 02-26-2020, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaymarsch View Post
I think that I will try this method on my next string change. I saw you post it in another thread recently and it piqued my curiosity.

Best,
Jayne
Hope you like it Jayne! It gives a neat result, and the strings come off easily at change-time.
Best
John
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Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019)
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  #83  
Old 02-26-2020, 10:40 AM
nowgypsy nowgypsy is offline
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I have only been playing 17 years and have never used a locking method of winding on strings. That said I have never noticed any slippage of strings or breakage. I do have more wraps on the post as string diameter decreases. This is more a function of room on the post than anything.
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  #84  
Old 02-26-2020, 12:53 PM
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BrunoBlack BrunoBlack is offline
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I’ve used the Martin lock-method forever with no problem. Strings stay tuned to pitch beautifully. Since I snip the strings at mid point between the nut and bridge to remove the old strings (once the tension is released), the old strings slip right through the tuning post eye with no issue dealing with the string lock. It’s just how I learned and have no reason to change.
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  #85  
Old 02-26-2020, 01:00 PM
llew llew is offline
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I find no need to and it facilitaes ease of string changes without the need of an acetylene torch!
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  #86  
Old 02-26-2020, 03:19 PM
brianmay brianmay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FwL View Post
I don't go for any method that wraps.the string over itself. Not only is it unnecessary, it increases the chance for slack to accumulate on the tuning post.

Feel free to.disagree.

.
I do. Only been using Dave Doll's video method for 12 years on both my Martins. The strings stay in tune, come off easily when loosened, and look really neat.

By far and away the neatest and easiest method I've used in my 55+ years playing.
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  #87  
Old 02-26-2020, 03:31 PM
Birchtop Birchtop is offline
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I started using the locking method or “Martin method” a long time ago on all of my electrics that don’t have locking tuners. Big difference!

I carry this over to the acoustics out of habit.
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  #88  
Old 02-26-2020, 04:04 PM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is offline
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I was restringing guitars before Martin were making videos and when Taylors were only making port.

I've never done that twist-locking business and never had any issues.

I use the Silly Moustache method.
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  #89  
Old 02-26-2020, 04:15 PM
llew llew is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silly Moustache View Post
I was restringing guitars before Martin were making videos and when Taylors were only making port.

I've never done that twist-locking business and never had any issues.

I use the Silly Moustache method.
Here...here!
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  #90  
Old 03-30-2020, 01:15 PM
dwasifar dwasifar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llew View Post
Here...here!
Where? Where?
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