#76
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I've heard that changing a string mid-set is faster and easier if you don't use the Martin method. Makes sense to me. I never break strings, but I'm going to try the Taylor method and see if I like it. It does look faster to change a whole set too.
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#77
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When I first began playing, back around 1961, I used the simple ‘poke the string through the hole and start winding’ method, I didn’t care how many turns around the post, whether the turns overlapped, whatever. But in the very early ‘70s, a guy in the band I was playing with showed me the method I’ve used ever since - many, many years later I found a video made by Bryan Kimsey demonstrating the exact same method....
https://youtu.be/C7jUHNjwzoY I like the way the string turns upwards so I can cut it level with the top of the tuner post, which gives a neat, non-blood-letting result, and the ‘above/below’ wraps ‘grip’ the string. In recent years, I’ve discontinued the ‘lock’ on the ‘B’ and ‘e’ strings in Bryan’s video - I do those exactly the same as the wound strings but leave enough slack to give four or five turns around the post. It’s worked fine for me for 45 years or so - ain’t changing now! The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.
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John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) Last edited by JayBee1404; 02-26-2020 at 03:02 AM. |
#78
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I never knew about the this-brand method and the that-brand method ...
I generally change one string at a time. I don't know whether letting all the tension off the neck is good or bad or a no-op, but not letting it all off is what motivated me originally, now it is just my habit. I start on the high E string. I put the ball end into the pin-hole and slide the pin in and pull back on the string as I push the pin in towards being seated so that the ball end will be wedged on the end of the pin. Then I put the un-cut string through the tuner hole and hold it down with my finger on the first fret with some slack in it. Then I start winding, trying to hold the slack in the string as I go, making sure I'm getting clean wraps around the tuner post with no overlap. I always believed overlap would increase the chance of a string break. After a few winds it starts to become impossible to hold the slack in the string. After a few more winds the string starts to become tight, so I get it somewhere near the right pitch. As I continue on to thicker and thicker strings I return to the already done strings playing a few notes and bends and making sure they stay somewhere near the right pitch. When they're all on there, I cut the strings (I used to wind them up into a loop like on old Bob Dylan albums ) and get the guitar in tune. Play a little, tune a little, repeat a couple of times and then it is stable. Has any brand claimed this as a method? -Mike "I doubt it..." |
#79
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I realize this is an old post, but I've tried the locking method and the regular method and didn't notice any difference. It would seem reasonable to lock the unwound strings but I haven't noticed any slippage. I suppose if one was an aggressive player it might help stay in tune...
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#80
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Quote:
Best, Jayne |
#81
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I've used the Martin method since 72. I find it ensures longer lasting intonation. You only need a couple of wraps at most after the string is locked.
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#82
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Quote:
Best John
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John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#83
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I have only been playing 17 years and have never used a locking method of winding on strings. That said I have never noticed any slippage of strings or breakage. I do have more wraps on the post as string diameter decreases. This is more a function of room on the post than anything.
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#84
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I’ve used the Martin lock-method forever with no problem. Strings stay tuned to pitch beautifully. Since I snip the strings at mid point between the nut and bridge to remove the old strings (once the tension is released), the old strings slip right through the tuning post eye with no issue dealing with the string lock. It’s just how I learned and have no reason to change.
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#85
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I find no need to and it facilitaes ease of string changes without the need of an acetylene torch!
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Jim Dogs Welcome......People Tolerated! |
#86
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Quote:
By far and away the neatest and easiest method I've used in my 55+ years playing.
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NOT from Queen - he's much cleverer I am English, so are all my spellings Two guitars I'm happy with . . . |
#87
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I started using the locking method or “Martin method” a long time ago on all of my electrics that don’t have locking tuners. Big difference!
I carry this over to the acoustics out of habit.
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Martin D-35 Martin 000-18 |
#88
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I was restringing guitars before Martin were making videos and when Taylors were only making port.
I've never done that twist-locking business and never had any issues. I use the Silly Moustache method.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#89
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Here...here!
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Jim Dogs Welcome......People Tolerated! |
#90
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