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Basic Truss Rod Adjustment Question
Hello AGF.
First off, I am impressed regularly by the respectful communications I read here. Thank you for being a good group. Is my following statement correct? Generally, starting with an appropriately adjusted truss rod for the current string tension; when adjusting a truss rod, either from the head or from the sound hole, we tighten the truss rod if we are increasing the string tension; and therefore also are loosening the truss rod when applying lighter string tension. |
#2
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Yes.
You should measure neck relief though. Should be about 1/32“. Or you can: capo 1st fret, finger on the fret where neck meets body, tap other finger on string at 7th fret. If there’s barely a visible gap and there’s a „click“ from string contacting fret, relief is about correct.
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#3
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A completely flat fretboard usually causes buzzes when the strings are played and bounce against the frets. Therefore there needs to be a slight bow in the fretboard to allow for this. The truss rod works between the first fret and the 12th/14th fret (at most). The amount of bow depends on the set up, the action and how hard you play, but it is best measured half way between the fist fret (use a capo) and the fret that coincides with the body join. I play mostly (but not exclusively) Collings, and they recommend .005". i prefer a little more - about .007-8" With the capo on 1st fret and holding down the string (1st or 6th) at the 12th/14th, measure the space between the 7th fret and string with a spark plug feeler gauge tool. see this : Hope this helps
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#4
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Thank you for the answers. Reinforced my understanding some.
Silly Mustache, thanks for the video, I should have known that you would have something precisely for what I asked. My action is perfect, Im moviing to a lighter string for a while and want to keep the set up... |
#5
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Quote:
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#6
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Quote:
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#7
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Sorry, I got confused by the imperial system.
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#8
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While a flexible neck may need an adjustment when changing to lighter gauge strings, a stiff neck may not need any adjustment at all. Neck stiffness is dependent on several factors, including stiffness of the wood used, neck thickness, width and length, as well as the type of reinforcement. Action height is also a factor.....higher action affects the neck relief more than lower action.
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#9
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No problem. It's not like you crashed a spacecraft on Mars or anything.
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#10
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A block of wood 3 inches wide by 1 inch thick can hold string tension perfectly, however it is not possible to put our hands around said block to play a tune. As we shape that block of wood for hand comfort we remove some of its strength, how much depends predominantly on species of wood and grain of the neck. If we thin the neck down too far for comfort the wood may no longer be strong enough to combat string tension, in this scenario we add a truss rod for putting strength back into a neck These days, most builders, main stream manufacturers simply fit a truss rod regardless of the above mentioned. So....... if your neck is off a quality species of wood, with grain of the right direction and is thick enough to maintain tension, then changing the strings to a different gauge will make no difference to the relief If.......your neck is of a cheaper wood or unfavourable grain direction or over thinned for comfort then a change in string gauge will require a truss rod adjustment Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#11
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Quote:
Pretty Thomastik: |