#16
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No. I play classical, 12 string, six string (acoustic and electric archtop). I couldn't tell you the string or nut width on any of them without looking at specs or measuring them. I've never had a problem switching between them, I guess I'm of the see guitar, play guitar school.
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Guild F212: 1964 (Hoboken), Guild Mark V: 1975 (Westerly), Guild Artist Award: 1975 (Westerly), Guild F50: 1976 (Westerly), Guild F512: 2010 (New Hartford), Pawless Mesquite Special: 2012, 90s Epi HR Custom (Samick), 2014 Guild OOO 12-fret Orpheum (New Hartford), 2013 12 fret Orpheum Dread (New Hartford), Guild BT258E, 8 string baritone, 1994 Guild D55, Westerly, 2023 Cordoba GK Negra Pro. |
#17
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The only ones that throw me for a loop are the classicals and my Ric 12-string. The classicals are too wide, the Ric too narrow (for a 12). Those definitely take a few minutes to adjust to every time I pick them up.
And to be honest, I don't really care much about scale length most of the time either. To me, as a guitarist, it's part of my "job" to be adaptable to playing whatever I have to - to get the sound I need. Besides, the more guitars you own, the more you'll encounter those little differences between them. My advice: Don't sweat it for now and just keep trying to get used to both. There's a good likelihood that eventually you will. |
#18
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funny story, I just got a D-18 with 1 11/16th nut and I thought I was going to hate it because my custom D is the same. But for some reason the D-18 feels and plays easier, even though after measuring I confirmed they are the same nut width and string spacing (1 11/16th nut and 1.5" string spacing give or take a 1/32nd). So there's something else coming into play like the thickness and profiles of the necks. The nut width isn't the only dimension to watch is what I'm saying.
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#19
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I don't have any issue as I play both a steel string guitar (1.75") and classical (2") during my practice sessions. I flatpick, strum and fingerpick with the steel string guitar and just finger pick with the classical. I play different songs on both although there is one I play on both currently.
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_____________________ Martin HD28 w/Dazzo 60s Martin OM28 w/Dazzos 60s Taylor 562CE Taylor 214CE DLX Amalio Burguet Vanessa Fender Player Stratocaster HSS Plus Timberline T60HGpc Kolaloha KTM-000 with MiSi SunnAudio MS-2 Digital Piano Yamaha P515 Grand Piano Yamaha C3 DPA 4488 |
#20
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Thanks for all the replies. Its such a friendly forum.
So just to give you a bit more information. The short scale on the GSMini doesn’t bother me. I just move my left arm a little further on the Yamaha when fretting. I mean the string spacing on my strumming/picking hand. I can perceive the difference when I’m picking the strings on each guitar. Because the width between the strings is less on the Yamaha, I make more mistakes when moving from 6th string to 4th for example after playing on the GSMini. I’m a left playing right handed so my weaker hand is strumming or picking. At the moment I strum and pick on the Yamaha and practice fingerpicking on the GSMini. I don’t have fat fingers but I prefer the GSMini and when I get another guitar, I’ll get the same width as the Mini. Thanks again!
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—————————- 2020 Yamaha FS850 2015 Taylor GS Mini Hog |
#21
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Quote:
and I do all the time on my Guild, but 2 inches is a deal breaker for finger picking for me so I understand your problem EDIT*** Played an FG820 today, I finger picked fine on it, who knew, I guess I can handle the bridge spacing. Last edited by Wellington; 09-17-2021 at 07:44 AM. |
#22
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Quote:
Can you expand on this? You’re a lefty guitarist currently playing righty? Thanks frankie
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I love playing guitar |
#23
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Yeah I’m left handed, but playing right handed. So my weaker hand is strumming and/or picking.
It’s taken me ages to get a smooth fingerpicking pattern going… I find changing between chords ok and am now working on bar chords as this is my left hand!
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—————————- 2020 Yamaha FS850 2015 Taylor GS Mini Hog |
#24
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You get used to it. I have all different spacings. They all let you do different things. Wide spacing good for leads, it separates the notes, and great for fingerstyle of course. If you want to shred, go fast, narrower rules. But its not just the spacing, its the neck profile too. All goes into the algorithm....
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#25
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I used to be pretty particular about having a 1.75 nut. Then I got into vintage guitars and had to learn to adapt. The toughest was my 1968 Martin, as it has a 1 11/16 neck that is quite narrow. I find that once I get used to a neck, I can switch relatively seamlessly with maybe a 5 min adjustment period.
It's also worth noting that not all 1.75 (or 1 11/16) nut widths have the same string spacing. It can actually vary quite substantially for the same nut width. For example I had a SCGC with a 1 11/16 nut width that had the same string spacing at the nut as my Collings with 1.75 nut.
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| 1968 Martin D-28 | 1949 Gibson J-45 | 1955 Gibson LG-2 | Santa Cruz 000 Cocobolo / Italian Spruce | Martin D-18 1939 Authentic Aged | Martin Gruhn Guitars Custom D-21 Adi/Madi | Gibson J-45 | Fender American Elite Telecaster | Fender American Standard Stratocaster | Gibson Les Paul Standard | Gibson Les Paul Studio | PRS Custom 24 10-Top | Gibson Les Paul 1960 Reissue (R0) | |
#26
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Quote:
As I chopped and changed guitars, I found that some were a little better, but many were a real pain. sometimes a 1 & 11/16" or 1 & 3/4" nut width can be playable as long as it has a deep profile and ,hopefully a wider string spacing (like 2 & 3/8". The challenge is to work out what works best for you, your hands and your style. Easy to say, not so easy to do. I managed for 21 years with a standard necked Martin D35. Then I foolishly sold it to a friend and bought a Martin J40 - and found it really problematic. Same nut width, but a very shallow neck profile (dunni about the string spacing but I was buzzing and fluffing all over the strings. I was shown a 60s Martin D35-S -a 12 fret with a 1 & 7/8" nut width and suddenly I could do whatever I wanted. cleanly - but there was no way the illustrious owner was going to part with it. after about three years, I found a Collings 12 fret dread with a 1 & 13/16" nut width. Now all my flattops have the same nutwidth excepting a Waterloo which has a 1 &3/4" nut but opening up to a 2 & 2& 3/8" string spacing with a clumpy neck. Plus, I lost a great deal of weight very quickly in 2017/8 and even my fingers got skinny! I've discussed on this forum and elsewhere why this thin neck business happened , but right now, I suggest that you look for guitars with wider fretboards. 12 frets or whatever you find you need. Recently, I understand, Martin has changed its dreads and OMs to 1 & 3/4" nuts - and about time! That might do it for you, but be picky!
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
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gs mini, string spacing |
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