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  #1  
Old 11-19-2012, 11:58 PM
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Default A build for Budster!

Budster decided he needed a custom built OM six string. He came over and picked out some wood.

Here are the particulars -

Top- Western red cedar
Back/sides - Madagascar Rosewood
Binding- Figured Maple
Kerfing- Reverse mahogany
Back bracing- Sitka Spruce
Top bracing-Sitka Spruce
Bridge plate-Rosewood
Sound Port – Oval
Fretboard-Brazilian Rosewood
Fretboard binding – Ebony
Headplate- – Ebony
Headplate binding- none –Maple under layer
Neck – 5 piece laminate - walnut/2x ebony .080” /maple .225” Carbon reinforced
Nut- 1 3/4" bone
Saddle-bone
Bridge- Rosewood or ebony – (dark) 2 ¼” Spacing
Bridge pins-rosewood, abalone dots
Tuners Gotoh 510 3L/3R gold, 18:1
Tuner buttons- Black
Rosette- Madagascar Rosewood segmented
Soundhole/soundport binding - one 010" maple strip.
Purfling B/W/B
Back strip – Maple
End splice – Deep V or 90 grain to side
Fret wire – EVO Gold
Fretboard side dots- abalone.
Fretboard markers- ¼ abalone round
Fretboard inlay - none
Headstock inlay- abalone S
Pickup system- 9 volt PUTW dual source
Scale length- 25.4
Cutaway- none
Fretboard radius-16"
Neck joinery – Bolt on
Truss rod - double acting - access from sound hole.
Top radius- 28
Back radius-15
Bracing – X brace, Saville design, Somogyi inspired
Size - OM
Finish- Water based satin urethane
Strings - Elixir PB Light
Case – Ameritage Silver

Let the fun begin!

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Old 11-20-2012, 07:32 AM
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I think it is just so cool that a pile of flat wood can become a thing of visual and auditory beauty in the hands of the right craftsperson.
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Last edited by mikealpine; 11-20-2012 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:07 AM
jalbert jalbert is offline
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Woo-hoo! Congratulations, Bud! I look forward to hearing it played in person some day.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:17 PM
Funkstarfish Funkstarfish is offline
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Ill be eagerly watching the results. Always love your builds here SteveS
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:46 PM
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Lookin' forward to this build.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funkstarfish View Post
Ill be eagerly watching the results. .......
Thank you!
OK - Let's get this thing moving!


First off - the top is joined and the thickness is reduced to a predetermined deflection. I do not care much about the thickness.
This is how I measure stiffness - The top rests on two dowels and the gauge is zeroed.


A bar weight is placed on the top.



With the bar in place, deflection is measured on the dial indicator. Thickness is reduced until the desire deflection is indicated. Once this starts deflecting a large deflection difference is created by very small reduction in thickness. This cedar top is about .080" thick. Compare that to production houses that run about .110". It is easier for strings to move a thinner top. This can be done only with a more robust bracing system. I make the top and bracing light and responsive, yet strong enough to hold the near 200 lbs string tension.

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Old 11-21-2012, 01:03 PM
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Yep sir, I am pretty excited watching this progress and can't wait to put my fingers on it !

Bud
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:44 PM
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Thanks for the update......keep them coming.......Steve
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needspeed View Post
Thanks for the update......keep them coming.......Steve
OK Steve!

Time to work on the rosette. This will be a segmented rosette, 12 piece made of Madagascar Rosewood from cut offs from the back.

Cut and bond the segments together -




Layout the top -




Cut out the rosette -

Shellac the top and cut channel for the rosette-






Glue in place.





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Old 11-26-2012, 03:01 PM
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Some scraping and sanding to finish the rosette -





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Old 11-28-2012, 11:25 AM
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Time to join the back. Bud decided on maple bindings and a maple backstrip.
The cut off will be used for the inside seam.



Hwre it is cut out with the sides. That's some pretty wood Bub picked out.
BTW -Madagascar Rosewood doesn't just look great, it rings like a bell. It is a great choice for back and sides.



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Old 11-29-2012, 11:28 AM
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Let's get those sides bent.
Heat it up slowly, about 5 minutes from room temperature and start bending when it reaches 220 F.







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Old 12-03-2012, 12:52 PM
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Now that the sides are bent it is time to join them together. First the ends must be cut to length and cut square. The sides are marked for length in the mold and a square is used to make a line. The ends are clamped with a straight section of wood on the line and then cut using a Japanese pull saw. These saws are a joy to use.

Once the sides are cut they can be assembled together with the neck and heel blocks using hide glue.








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Old 12-03-2012, 12:58 PM
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Very cool, Bud. Can't wait to see and hear you making music with this one!
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:01 PM
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Congrats, Budster! Looking forward to seeing your upcoming videos!
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