#31
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Here is one way to do it without a radius dish. I made a batten with a 28 foot radius and one with a 15 foot radius and have used them for 8 guitars now. Very easy - takes a little more time to glue braces, but I really like John Arnold's idea of 2 of them with a sloppy "x" joint to support under both legs of the "x" brace being glued at one time - I just do one at a time now.
Start here and look at a half dozen on shaping and gluing braces, then jump ahead some to see the battens used for sanding the rim. I do the gneral brace shape before I glue them: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby16...7688488198220/ Scroll left and right, text below, click to enlarge. Also, someone gave the formula for the sagitta, and here is how you make a true arc easily and quickly: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby16...7635172644427/ Ed |
#32
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radius calculation
I bought a LMI brace radius sanding jig (15' on one side, 25' on the other) and traced the radii onto the female cauls I used to hold braces into place one at a time till the glue set. Easy enough, the jig I found really useful in radius-sanding bracing, and the second use for the jig in making bracing forms was an enjoyable plus. Inexpensive, unique, tool that saves a lot of time and adds quality to a build.
I also found out that it's a real good idea to rout sanding dishes outside. All that mdf dust makes a serious mess. |
#33
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I see that the LMII kits include flat bottom braces. If you buy a Martin kit, the braces are radiused already. In that case, you trace the radius onto your gluing caul. That tracing is a 5 second operation, each for top and bottom.
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#34
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I appreciate the input so far. Just struggling to find a way to do this without it costing thousandS!!
I realize getting into any hobby to save $$$ is foolish. |
#35
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I think I am just going to have to buy piece by piece. Hand tools then a power tool here and there.
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#36
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That is how most people start out , at the end of the first build, your shed will be stocked, you will have jigs everywhere and then go second guitar yeh why not, and away you go again.
Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#37
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shop setup
Coming to the end of my second scratchbuilt guitar, some tooling needs to be replaced/improved. And more needs to be constructed. But everything's getting done.
I found that I spent four times the time setting up a luthier shop and making tooling than I did making my first scratchbuilt instrument. And I think I was reasonably quick about it. Non-commercial builders can spend the time making stuff that a working shop will need to buy; for the working shop it's likely too expensive and revenue-killing to make tooling. Working shops need to spend time on billable work. |
#38
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LMI seems to be limited in EIR at this time. Unless you are looking at top grade. What comes closest? Walnut?
Looking to stay at or under EIR price range, and not interested in mahogany. And again under or same price range so no bloodwood, zebra wood, cocobolo, please. |
#39
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I recommend granadillo. Very rosewood-like. Although fairly new to US guitarmaking, it has been used by Brazilian luthiers for a very long time.
Indian laurel also looks promising, but I have no direct experience. If you have no interest in mahogany, then I would not recommend walnut. Tonally, they are close. Last edited by John Arnold; 09-30-2018 at 07:03 AM. |
#40
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There are many choices of back & sides sets of close-out wood from $18 to $50 at: https://www.hibdonhardwood.com/colle...seconds?page=1
I just bought 2 sets (granadillo and katalox) for $62 delivered. |
#41
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Quote:
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#42
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Hibdon has great deals on wood that has minor repairable flaws.
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