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  #1  
Old 12-19-2015, 11:46 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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Default Stripped Slothead Tuning Machine Screw Repair

I'm thinking of fixing a stripped tuning machine screw on my slotted headstock. Is this basically the way to go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mIaXWBavLA or is there a better technique?

How do I go about drilling a pilot hole after filling? Do I need a jig, or a drill press? I was going to get a small, hand powered drill to minimize my chances of doing any damage, but how do I make sure that I drill it straight?

Last edited by jacm81; 12-29-2015 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:27 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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Someone must know something about this. It has to be one of the most common repairs there is.
Is the toothpick method the way to go, or do professionals use some kind of resin or something?
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:31 AM
stanron stanron is offline
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There was some J S Bach on the radio so I only watched the pictures but that looks fine. Glue in some tooth pick, or scrap wood to match the head, it won't be visible when the tuner is fixed, and you should be OK.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:33 PM
bwstl01 bwstl01 is offline
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I use the toothpick method for gunstock repairs.

Be sure to use a hardwood toothpick. I like the round ones, since they're usually made from maple. Plain old carpenter's glue works fine.
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:22 PM
Wozer Wozer is offline
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this is fairly simple carpentry...as noted, use hardwood of some type...for example in the opposite a wooden matchstick makes a real bad filler...for optimum results drill out the hole to match let's say the toothpick diameter, break off the point for better results, and put some glue on both the hole and toothpick...drive in...let dry...predrill new hole, and replace screw
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Old 12-20-2015, 03:49 PM
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bnjp bnjp is offline
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That's a good idea, but I don't have time to go through all those steps for every stripped screw. I just plug the hole, wait for it to dry and redrill.
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:37 AM
Frank Ford Frank Ford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnjp View Post
That's a good idea, but I don't have time to go through all those steps for every stripped screw. I just plug the hole, wait for it to dry and redrill.
Actually, you don't even have to wait for the glue to dry if you use a sliver of wood that's significantly smaller than required to actually fill the hole.

Of course, without common sense and decent judgment, it's possible to mess up pretty much anything. Generally though,there's not much to go wrong with a simple wood screw hole fill.

Here's my FRETS.COM article on the subject:

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...ripscrew1.html

Now, if you're comfortable using cyanoacrylate, here's a little nugget - - -

Often enough, the stripped hole can be successfully repaired with a TINY drop of thin viscosity cyanoacrylate. Just take the screw out, drip in the CA, and allow it to solidify. It will form a matrix with the wood fibers and harden the threaded walls of the hole. Works like an absolute charm, you bet. Now, if you're repairing a stripped 3/8" diameter lag screw in a wood fence post, you might need half a bottle . . .
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:19 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Ford View Post

Now, if you're comfortable using cyanoacrylate, here's a little nugget - - -

Often enough, the stripped hole can be successfully repaired with a TINY drop of thin viscosity cyanoacrylate. Just take the screw out, drip in the CA, and allow it to solidify. It will form a matrix with the wood fibers and harden the threaded walls of the hole. Works like an absolute charm, you bet. Now, if you're repairing a stripped 3/8" diameter lag screw in a wood fence post, you might need half a bottle . . .
That is a good nugget. Thanks Frank.

For decades, I've used a drop of titebond on the screw threads, then immediately put the screw back in. It also works well, though it takes longer to harden, but I like your method better.
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Old 12-21-2015, 04:56 PM
arie arie is offline
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there's about 3 or 4 decent ways to handle that easy fix. none of which takes as long as watching the video.
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Old 12-29-2015, 03:39 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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How do I go about drilling a pilot hole after filling? Do I need a jig, or a drill press? I was going to get a small, hand powered drill to minimize my chances of doing any damage, but how do I make sure that I drill it straight?
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:09 AM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is offline
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Done this a number of times - don't even glue - just force a piece of tooth pick in, tamp it down gently with a small hammer, slight punch to provide the screw a starting place - rescrew - done.
NOTE: Don't attempt to over tighten those screws.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2015, 06:59 AM
jeffnles1 jeffnles1 is offline
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I've fixed a number of stripped guitar tuner screws and a LOT of stripped gunstock screws. I don't know why people think they need to use the gorilla super twist to tighten small wood screws but that's a different thread.

The video is kind of overkill. Nothing wrong with it and it would work. The splitting the toothpick over a razor blade looks like a pretty good way to end up taking a couple weeks off of your guitar playing should you slip and slice your finger. That razor blade doesn't know if it's cutting toothpick or your fingers.

I clip the pointy end off the toothpick (unless I'm dealing with a truly tiny hole), spread some glue on the toothpick and a drop on the bottom of it. insert it into the stripped out hole, tap it lightly with the handle end of the screw driver and then insert the screw. Presto done.

1) be sure the screw is good (if the head is bugged up, get a new screw)
2) if the original hole is really wallowed out you may need to plug with a dowel but that is rare on small holes like guitar tuner screws. See it with larger screws on gunstocks
3) if the wood is split then fix the crack first before plugging the screw hole.

90% of the time, it takes longer to remember where you put the box of toothpicks and wood glue than it does to make the repair.
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